John Dixon

Haven't done any tweaking to this one yet really, not had time. Still got stock airbox on there at the mo! Hopefully will get a chance before then, be interesting to see if any of it actually works :rolleyes:

I'm up for the RR session too :D

Genuine strosek kit on a SWB looks the biz but it's about 12K including fitting :eek:

GPS do them too, got 8 groove ones for ~£300

I've got Konis and blitz kit too, really pleased with it. Found with the standard stuff on my old car, which was all new, it was a prone to understeer when you pushed it really hard. TBH, felt like a wallowy old barge when trying to change direction quickly through a tight series of bends. The new set up is really quite neutral with 255/235 tyres and will oversteer before the front washes out, but it's progressive and not too hard to catch. Turn in is really quick and direct. Ride height was actually a little higher than some we compared it with (b19rks I think) but I'm guessing that's because most old springs are sagged.

The service manual has spec's for the resistance of the temp sensor at cold and warm. Check this with a multimeter at the ECU plug and then you'll kno w that the sensor and the wiring are fine if it's OK. If it's bad then check the resistance at the sensor its self, if it dosen't match up then the wiring is bad. Probably best to disconnect the plug from the ECU before you do it.

Cool, try setting the start boost around 3psi lower than set once you've got it tuned. Makes it hard to tune if you set it up first because it's hard to decide if the drop off is slow response from lack of gain, or just a low settle because the SP's too low. How good is the record and playback function for tuning though :D Think mine's pretty good at that and response is better than the blitz one I had. Might play some more, but been tuning PID's on a spray dryer system for the past week and can't be bothered to look at another one now!

Scoops, what settings are you running in yours, for comparison. I've got gain 7, SP around 81, start boost 13. Gives almost spot on 16psi Still got stock air filters though.

LRP will kill the lambda sensors.

Mark, isn't one of them the fuel tank breather? You might want to put a liquid block valve on that one, but it'll need to be open to allow displacement air into the tank.

I've got 2 Apexi's on order from Johhny and I'm going to try this when I get them. Going to get a mate to make up the bends with a X pipe then use one good & one knackered MAF to mount the MAF's. Ran this by a fluid expert at work and he reckoned that a round orifice of the right size fitted into a 2.5" pipe would simulate the pressure drop thorough a MAF OK, but our flow bench has been bust for ages, so can't size one! Tweak the K value and VQ table in the code and should be OK.

There was one in CCC once too, think it might have been Steve E again.

Obviously does! Have you lost the VTC with your verniers or is it retained?

One of my mates is putting a chevy small block in an S13 at the minute - I gave him my old brakes to try and stop it!! He was going to put it in a bubble shape micra FFS

Pleased you got it running properly :D Is that 5/15 degrees or minutes?

Mine does exactly the same thing, around 2000rpm particularly and I know I've got a duff O2 sensor.

Like that pod :D Do you have the measurements for it, wondering if it'll fit my profec. Cheers

Join the club :( Bloody embarrasing. Might go and have a look at it today - got a g/box on a 306 to change first though!

Yeah, get the same thing at work - thought the IT police were on to me!

Cool, drop me a PM to remind me closer to the time then. Cheers

Have you checked the base timing is set properly on the CAS?

I put them under the nose cone then thread the hoses through the gaps down the side of the rad. There's plenty of room if you've got an aftermarket filter, if not you can get it on front of the standard air box, in the bumper.

Cheers for the replies. I'll have a look on ebay and see what I can dig out.

Chris, I can do it for you if you bring it up to kidderminster. Kinda busy for the next few weeks and got someone else's to do first, but can definately sort it out for you if you're still stuck.

I'd guess they just send a different one, because there's no way that chip will come back off! Might be a flash or something I suppose but I doubt the ECU has programming capability. To some degree the ECU self learns, but the bas maps don't change, it only adjusts the fuelling a little at low to middle revs/load on the signal from the lambda sensors. At high boost and revs it just uses the map figures. Timing is always fixed for a given condition.