John Dixon

Steve, you don't necessarily need the balance pipe. The problem is that for all voltages below 0.48v the VQ table spits out the same air flow figure. This means that the ECU puts in too much fuel for the actual air now entering. By tweaking the bottom of the VQ table to give a linear(ish) drop from 0.48 to 0v you solve the problem. AFAIK the idle control valve operates on RPM only, the roughness is from the excessive richness. I never got round to trying this on mine, but guys who have done it said it cured the problem completely.

Smithy, why not just run one AFM and a dummy and have the chip modifed to suit? Saves buying a new AFR. You should be able to tweak the HKS one to give you good idle then or you can mod the VQ table in the ROM.

Or the cable for one of the VTC solenoids, think they're sheathed in white braid and go to the back of the heads.

They're rose jointed. Pillow ball is what the Japs call spherical bearings. They're worth doing, much better feel that poly bushes. Sounds like a good price, sure mine were £200+ from SE

Run an ECU diagnostic and see if there is an error code stored in there.

The page I had is gone now, but I thought it was 1,000,000 so say selling price 2,000,000 + Import etc. If it was 100,000 it'd be worth doing just for the bits even if it was a pile of crap!

Cheers Peter, saw that one, but thought with it being accident repaired might be a bit dodgy! Also it's at one of the auctions where the guys over there don't actually go to check them out so there are not guarentees. It's probably going to go for about £12k as well judging by the start price.

Me and B19rks are going up + Latz and Johnny from GPS will be there.

'Fraid not, it was a nice car, drove very well, but TBH for 9k I'd have wanted something perfect considering how much I can bring one over for.

For anyone interested, there's a new version of that excel file for editing BINS and an appender for making 2/4 page BINS on the download section of ZtechZ There's a post on the forum about differences and how they work.

Think it's fairly normal to have to pay all of the interest that you would have had over the entire course of the loan. Always struck me as a con too!

Going to look at that SWB Z in the for sale section tomorrow. Hopefully be back on the road soon :D :D

Yes, it does but it shouldn't run too badly even during that period.

Try deemon tweaks or rally design if it's an aftermarket brembo callipar. If its a skyline one, Grasshopper. I think the rally design website has shillouttes of all the pads on it so you may be able to identify it from that.

I'm looking to get another one at the minute. Ran mine for 2 years and other than the obvious stuff like exhaust and propshaft etc all the bits are the same as the 2+2. The boot's bigger too! Looks are a matter of opinion but I think the SWB looks 10 times better. TBH I didn't find it twitchy, was nice and progressive when it stepped out.

From a quick look underneath, the two pipes from the back of the cats join into a single very large one then go to the back box.

Had a shot in Leigh (Friday)'s zed yesterday with a single outlet jap exhaust. Must say I was amazed at the difference in sound over a dual exit, much much nicer. Sounds more like the sort of straight 6 sound from a supra or skyline, more sporty altogether. Going to have to see if I can get one when I get another car.

Berkely, have you tried a flare nut spanner on the nut. It's like a single hex ring spanner with a slot in it to go over the pipe. Failing that a small stilston wrench usually works for me. If you can get a flaring tool to borrow, you could just put another end on that pipe then add another small bit of pipe to make the length back up. That pipe will run back to the ABS unit, probably under the car inside one of those plastic trunking things

Shouldn't be too hard to find the duff component in these hopefully. Need to look for the pin that supplies power to coil packs etc (possibly via relay) and the rest of the ECU then see if anything's gone short. Might have a look at mine but don't have too much motivation at the minute. Has anyone posted on TT net to see if it's a known problem? Did ask Devin (off ZtechZ) but he'd never heard of it.

You might want to try quaife Ian, they do all sorts of sequential boxes and they're based in the UK. You could get a 7sp for the 205! Is it really worth the cash though, these things are ££££ and the Z has such a wide torque band you don't really need the extra gears.

Excellent, real time trace would be nice :D Been writing software to use the ROMULATOR but should be able to use anything that connects to a serial port.

Matthew, Not a bad price, but you can get a fully build one for around that (STEP Plus). Works fine and will do up to 32 pin. Can you do emulators too, or just programmers? Cheers

Had 'em on my 205 and found that they were good, but gave a pretty wooden pedal feel when pushed hard. Made it a bit hard to judge when you were trying not to lock them up. Lasted ages though.

Pete, Worth remembering we did remove the TPS plug at one point, maybe broke a cable inside - they are pretty susceptible to heat damage if the boot was anything to go on. Can cut it back and resolder. Give me a buzz if I can help you out with anything. CheerZ

Haven't tried it yet, just put Pete's back in. Will try it with a standard chip. I sort of thought maybe something I'd done was holding a voltage rail high when the ignition was off, but don't see how as the only one I use is the socket one??? Suspect maybe that ECU is a bit dodgy - it did take a hell of a whack in the crash after all. Or maybe my lack of static precautions have zapped it!!! Was it your original ECU that did it? Just wondering if there are maybe pinout differences with man/auto?