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John Dixon

Dormant Member
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Everything posted by John Dixon

  1. Probably the best option is PFR6B-11B but that is now discontinued courtesy in the states might still have some. PFR6B-11C is the UK spec plug. Do a search for opinions on other plugs, been loads of stuff about it but can't be arse going into it all again!
  2. Hi Peter, Did you manage to find a cheap source for EPROMS. Been looking around but cheapest I can find is £3.50 for 70ns. Even OTP would be OK I suppose if it's much cheaper. Cheers
  3. Don't mean to hijack the thread, but if you're selling that bit Gio, I'll take it. Broke one of mine last week and looks crap when you can't shut the blind! Cheers
  4. I think the ban on driver aids has been put back to the start of next season now :( Was going to cost too much to police or something. As for Schumi's skill, think that was proved again today ...
  5. I've put this Excel file together to make more sense of ECU maps etc. I think it's OK, but if anyone has any corrections please let me know. Also if anyone knows how the ignition dwell settings etc work, can you let me know. The BIN that's in there is a modified stock Z32 '93 Jspec manual. You need the analysis tools pak installed in excel to make it work, and I've only tested it in Excel 2000. Will probably make it write changes back to the BIN at some point. (Now Done) newFile CheerZ
  6. It's also my understanding that leaner mixtures ignite easier so are more prone to detonation. The Z ECU tries to set a AFR for each site based on air flow in x injector calibration values, so if the map is expanded out enough for the air flow going in, it should be pretty accurate. Seems like a better approach than the emerald one on my 205 which used throttle position and revs only, but I guess on an aspirated engine that's OK with no boost to compensate for. If I ever actually get time to try and map it fully I'll post the results up vs JWT and the tweaked JWT one I'm using now.
  7. Mark, Seem to rememver you were going to try a mocal 25 row cooler in your's (for the enigne), did it fit OK? Cheers
  8. 14.7:1 is stoichiometrically correct, but will NOT give the best power. If you aim for that right through the rev range you'll kill your engine in seconds. I'm not entirely sure why this is, but I know it's right!
  9. I'm going to get an EPROM emulator soon so I can map mine live on a rolling road, should be able to get v. good results, but takes ages to get spot on as you really need to map all the load/rpm sites and that's 16x16 for both fuel and timing. Also need to find a RR shop that's got a good dyno road so you can hold the revs and map through the load sites, and a wide band lambda setup to keep a good eye on mixture. Some of the AFR's in the JWT go to 10:1 which is mega rich. I've leaned mine out to 11.2:1 max, and had no problems at all. 12.6:1 should give the best power in theory, but didn't want to go that far yet as the timing may be off for mixture that lean.
  10. The F1 is not turbo'd just a very good engine! Read a book about it's design and build, and Ramsey was v. keen to keep it aspirated to get rid of the kak throttle respose that turbo engines are always going to have.
  11. The exhaust on the F1 serves as part of the crash structure. The main box is designed to collapse in a rear impact and absorb the energy. Guess that accounts for £2k of the price then ...
  12. Phone Johnny at GPS, the guy who makes his systems can do any tailpipe you want, and with / without centre boxes etc. Got one on mine and well chuffed with it build quality was v. good and sounds lovely. Cheap too!
  13. Did mine yesterday by reshaping the tab that hits the block. The butterflies were deffo not opening fully before hand. Don't know if it made much difference as I changed the chip at the same time :D
  14. Didn't know he had one, I'll give him a shot.
  15. Peter, if you do find another supplier it would be good. Didn't spot the £10 handling and £12 shipping on digikey until I tried to order! Cheers
  16. Anyone around the midlands got a conZult they wouldn't mind plugging into my car for a look? CheerZ
  17. Mac, when you say stock plug do you mean PFR6B-11C? I might get a set if the coppers don't last long, but at the minute while I'm playing with the maps I'll stick with the coppers for safety. Cheers
  18. Cool Peter, cheers. Be interested to see the code from your quick one! I've found these people Digi-key who do a 27C256 for £1.62. Just make sure they're faster than 80ns (been using the 45's from RS). Cheers Again John
  19. Cheers Peter, got the devices back today. You could have kept the change and got a drink though!! Ta John
  20. Pleased we're all agreed then:D Seriously though, when I've used these for a while I'll post on what I've found. MAC, do you have the measurements of the HKS plugs? I know the DENSO's are much shorter, but not sure about the HKS ones. Also, do you know if HKS 7 heat range is the same as NGK 7 heat range?
  21. Exactly, the HKS sales pitch basically says that the advantage of irridium is to provide a narrower electrode, and thus allow a wider gap. If the ceramic degrades at 850°C then it dosen't particularly matter what the mp of irridium is unless you get alot of localised heating around the tip (possibly its heat transfer coefficient isn't very high and this is the case, don't know). As duff says, a properly heat ranged plug should not overheat so the problem goes away.
  22. Yeah, but kind of my whole point is that these plugs are colder than the standard platinums so will run at a lower temperature. If these were going to melt from heat, then the copper portion of the ground electrode on the platinum plugs would melt too, it's the same material. Plugs usually break up from detonation that cracks the ceramic insulator, or bad gapping.
  23. Got one sorted now, cheers anyway James
  24. Yeah, I checked the connections, completely spotless.
  25. All I'm saying is that it's worth a go. If the car runs crap after 1000miles then I'll pull them and go back to plats or try HKS or something. I'm just happier knowing that I've got 7's in there as a safety measure against detonation, remember the 6's I took out HAD been overheating, and the main cause of detonation is pre-ignition off a plug tip that is too hot, that's why most race engines use surface discharge plugs - no earth electrode as a hot spot. Does anyone know a 7 range platinum of the correct dimensions?

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