John Dixon

No, it can be done without removing the carrier. The bearing comes already pressed into a housing which bolts to the carrier. You still need to get the hub pressed in/out but you definately don't need remove any suspension components etc. HTH

It's not too hard really, just remove the disk, brake shoes and hub nut. The bearing is bolted through from the inside with 4 bolts. There is also one big nut on the back that holds on the pin that locates the top of the brake shoes that's very tight (I think it's a 32mm?). You don't need to remove the driveshaft to do it, if you push the protruding end of the shaft back the movement in the CV joints is enough to allow you to get to the 4 bolts that hold the bearing in place (a puller can be helpful). You'll need somewhere with a BIG press to remove the hub from the bearing and press it into the new one. Mine needed about 80tons and it's a bitch to hold in position.

I spoke to Chris about it at the last midlands meet and the problem had been that the original supplier couldn't meet the demand and had to get someone else to make them. Don't know when he was expecting them though.

Cheers for the replies guys. Inspired by MAC1's repair of his MAF, I gave it a go and it seems to be OK now (fingers crossed it'll stay that way!)

Yeah, was going to check all that sort of stuff today. Only connectors that were touched were the neutral / reverse / speed ones on the g/box and I can't see that any of them would cause this. Speed sensor is OK anyway as the speedo operated perfeclty as it coasted down to 0 :mad:

Well not quite dead, but certainly seriously ill :( Was coming back from GPS last night after getting my clutch fitted (cheers Latz) when the car started to give an occasional stutter. Had done this before in the wet and I put it down to water drops hitting the MAF. Anyway, eventually it started to stutter bady and as I was driving would intermittantly go back to normal then stutter again. Revs would drop right off, and car would stop. Restart, would usually go OK for a bit again then the problem would resurface. Check engine light didn't come on until the engine had stopped. Haven't done an ECU diagnostic because I had to just get my other car and come straight into work, but need to get this sorted urgently. My feeling is that the MAF is probably dead - any ideas ?

Could be water getting into the MAF and cooling the sense wire? More likely if you have an induction kit (and you're moving!) Unlikely to be ignition as I'd have thought it would still rev high but miss on the affected cylinders.

Can't remember the price of the part, but it only takes about an hour to do. Does need a really big press though, so may have to pay extra for an engineering company to do that bit.

You'll need to get it measured then compare it to the values in the manual. I would imagine sagging bushes on the top link could lead to this (top of wheel moves further in). I believe it's quite common on Z's. You can get kits to shim the mount of the top link to correct it (Chirs C is doing a group buy on them at the moment).

Bald inside edges can still be caused by excessive negative camber, even if the tracking is spot on. Generally worse if the car has been lowered.

Bottom ball joint or kingpin bearings or wheel bearing ?

Give Chris C a shout, he's doing a group buy on them at the moment, may have some spares.

Someone already claimed mine as well, sorrry!

Cheers Andy.

Remember several people on here recommending redline oil for the Z gearbox. Is the best one to use MTL or MT-90 ? Cheers

I've just got an ACT one delivered from Grasshopper which I told is good for about 550ft.ibs. Had originally ordered an AP one, but it uses the standard pressure plate and can only take about 420ft.ibs, which I would guess you'll have passed. Probably not going to fit it until christmas, but I'm told it's still driveable despite being a metallic paddle.

Mine are off SWB Jap TT. Dunno if the spring rates are different to 2+2?

Or if anyone wants 2 sets to go for that off-road look I've got a set to give away too.

I've sorted that out since then! No new pics though because I don't have a digital camera :(

I did mine just after I first got the car. Pretty easy to do, although you do need access to an airline to blow the pistons out if they're siezed. After that it's just a case of clean up, fit the seals and put 'em back together. Only thing to look out for I think is if the surface of the pistons are scored as they have a chrome type coating on them, guess if that's knackered you need new pistons too.

As Mike says, I've got one and I really like the colour looks much better 'in the flesh': my car

Process Control Engineer in Oldbury John

Anyone recommend somewhere in the midlands that can check out my suspension alignment properly. Figure I'll probably need it adjusted since I've fitted wheels/shocks/springs and tie rods and not had it checked since.

I put mine at 1/2 way front and back. Figured they were probably meant to be that way and then give some adjustment either way from the optimum setting. Feels good like that although I'm tempted to harden the rears up a touch more, feels a little underdamped for the stiffness of the springs on the back.

Not on my Z, but a friends PUNTO I was looking at for her. Pulling to one side under braking. When changing pads, calliper piston v. hard to push back. Thought calliper siezed, so changed it - slightly better, but old caliper wasn't as stiff when off car. Seal was all bust though, so would have needed doing anyway. Noticed while bleeding that pedal v. stiff to operate. Seems likely to be either a blocked hose or a siezed master cyl. but never heard of either of these things happening. Anyone got any ideas.