John Dixon

Anyone know where I can get an old laptop cheap? Just need something to run win98 and office 2000 with a working serial & parallel port. Probably PII/celeron Either that or how to get the serial port on an IBM T21 to work under win 2000! Cheers

Alright mate, can you drop me a PM or call (07989 559702). I've lost your number. Cheers

You can't have a mines ECU remapped, they solder in the new chip then put a huge blob of Epoxy over the top so it can't be removed.

Yeah, they always seem inflated. Notice they quote HP though not BHP, I think there's a difference ?? Never been able to find a conversion though.

Don't the americans correct to different STP than us? Their power figures always look inflated anyway. Also they quote hp not bhp, don't know if that's a differenct in its self though?

You could fit an oil pressure accumulator, not as good as a dry sump, and might be hard to fit in a zed engine bay.

Steve, I'm selling one with 5x3 Oval tails, but you could have it modded if you want 4" or 5". PM me if you're interested. Cheers

Cool, if you want a hand with anything let me know.

Sorry, maybe didn't read too clearly. Yes, the wheels figure is accurate, but only for that specific set of conditions. If you run the car in a higher gear, you'll loose wheel bhp as it takes more energy to deform the tyre sidewalls at higher speeds - does that mean the engine is producing less power suddenly? The hub dynos are better, but the same argument can be applied to sticky brakes etc. you have to allow for that. If you put a good engine in a really poor car you'll get a low wheels figure even if the engine is fantastic. Dave Walker's tuning book has a good article on this subject, worth a read.

These days, flywheel figure is more accurate than at wheels with a good RR. You'll get different wheel figures just by altering tyre pressures or running in a different gear. OK, may not be perfect, but you'll only get that by putting the engine on a bench dyno.

Nice one Steve, where in the west midlands are you. I've seen a black H plate kicking around kidderminster a few times recently. Didn't get to see if it's a SWB or not though.

Yeah, I've tried all that stuff, there dosen't seem to be anything particularly wrong, just think it's the way the brakes are on these. Disconnecting the ABS helps a little, may try making up some bypass pipes for it and see if that cures it.

Lol, jelaousy does weird things to your eyesight eh Pete :rofl:

So it's not just me then :( Don't think it's air or master cyl, as 2nd time if static you can hold the pedal and it goes absolutely solid, no release at all. Saw that article too, but the bit on electric only steering was scary! has anyone tried the residual pressure valves??

Noticed this on both my Z's and was wondering if it's a thing on all of them or just a problem on both mine (unlikely I'd have thought). Basically it's that on first press, the first bit of travel on the brake pedal dosen't do much, but if you release and then press again it's much better. Feels like the knock back that you can get from warped disks where it forces the pads away so you have to pump them back out. My disks are fine and it's a bit worse with R34 callipars, presumably as the pistons are bigger volume so need more fluid moved to contact the disk again? Any ideas?? Was thinking of putting residual pressure valves on the brake lines to hold a few PSI on the callipars and hold them closer to the disks.

Short Wheel Base Basically a 2 seater ZX but much prettier, faster and pointier than those big 'ol 2+2 barges :D :D

Most of the SWB bits are the same as the 2+2, except obviously the interior trim and some of the drivetrain bits & panels. I can't think of anything to look for especially on a SWB.

Yeah, it's really good. Best part is you can get a line graph for boost against time so seeing how it responds is really easy. You can even record it and play it back. Setup is a bit tricky, but control is very good. Has a start boost so the wastegates stay tight shut until just below your desired level, then as it tails off at high revs you can bump it back up with RPM offset at 8 points. Can also trend other sensors like AFM, lambda with a separate harness.

There ya go ...

Some tech stuff's a definite must. With CCC gone there's no real hands on stuff in any magazines I've seen for ages.

Happy birthday mate. I've still got a pair of boost jets with a ribbon tied round them for ya :D

Cheers Paul, I'll give it a go.

Got 'em from the Z centre. Did subframe mounts, diff mounts, rear anti roll bar mounts and end bushes. Front bottom arm and steering rack. Didn't do the front tie bars as I've got rose jointed ones.

Cheers guys. Chris, I'll get a pic of the prolec install for you, nice unit. Yes, I know the plate is horrible, it's next on the list. Was a problem with the DVLA getting confused about the reg, so it's actually the wrong no at the minute as well !

Cheers mate. No probs, thanks for letting me know.