John Dixon

I'm in the same boat at the minute. Was thinking maybe Jeff at Zedworld?

No it dosen't have a turbo timer, you need a separate one. As for why it's better, it seems to have a better algorithm than the blitz one, dosen't overshoot as much and the boost dosen't vary as much with external temp as the blitz one used to. It's also got a graphical display which is ideal for tuning it, you can even record and play back the trends. You can also log 2 other analogue and pulse inputs with an extra harness. That means you can record/playback RPM/Boost/MAF voltage & Lambda voltage which is ideal for tuning. I think to get all that functionallity from the BLITZ one you need to buy the power meter or whatever it's called? The Greddy one's cheaper too.

The DAMD ones are discontinued. Takakira did the but they were £900 :eek: I really like the venom 6's if you could get them with different lenses those ones ar a bit max power for me!

No, that's for making 2 and 4 page BINS for 512k and 1024k EPROMS. It's called V3_11. If you have problems getting it to work let me know and I'll send you an installation package for it.

If you just want to play with the BINS there's a spreadsheet I did for download on http://www.ZtechZ.net that will let you edit and write mods to BIN files. Just finished a version that uses the xtronics romulator for real time mapping, just got to get a laptop with a working serial port to test it with now :mad:

Looks good if he gets the hardware working properly. Still no real time trace yet though.

440 is according to the haynes manual for that particular engine - could be miles off. It's never been to windemere, but never say never if you want to organise it let me know (next year sometime) :D

Yeah it's pretty obvious. Not too sure what difference it makes because I did it when I decatted mine.

With that combination of manifold, heads and carb it's supposed to be ~440 I think. When we threw it in, we didn't really bother with accurate instruments and things like that (other than oil pressure)! I'd say the revs are in the 3500 range, not too much above that certainly, the limiting factor just seems to be the torque needed to spin the jet drive. Haven't heard any cavitation though. Did get a speedo reading but gunning it alongside a scarab, about 70mph tops but feels like about 200 Not too sure if we'd get it onto scrapheap challenge - don't know if my workmanship's up to that sort of level :D :D

Not too sure. As I remember it, start duty on the AVC-R is just the duty cycle it uses as a starting point to self learn from.

If you want to remove the restrictor, just get a die grinder or a dremmel and grind it out. Only takes about 1/2 hour once you've got the exhaust off.

I'd be very surprised if it's not set up for 370cc's. I'd imagine it would be detting at 14Psi if it was really set up for 440 or 550cc unless you've raised the fuel pressure

It's at the start of the middle section, just behind the cats.

Yeah, you can leave the jap clocks in and just fit the chip.

Just like to point out that it was a speedo converter that I gave Clarkey, not an ECU chip ...

Thing is with alot of those american Z's the figures are with nitrous. Also they tend to build them for drag racing. Not much point having 700bhp on a road car if it's all from 8000-9000rpm.

Nice one Si, I know how long you've been waiting fo this :D

The converter chips do affect the HICAS and steering. The steering feel is awful with a converter, far too light. The chip just removes the limit in the ECU that tells it to stop accelerating at X mph.

Aren't they in mmHg x 100 ? If so then from memory 760mmHg = 1 atm = 1.013bar

Nigel, I'd imagine it's a mapped system rather than a simple Steer = K x x roadspeed x steering wheel angle. Don't have any proof of that mind, just a thought. Might go pull the ECU apart later on and have a look.

A few people have asked about how I disabled it: Basically, find the two wires that come from the top of the steering fluid tank. Follow these to a brown plug next to the HICAS actuator. Undo the plug, and short it out on the loom side. HICAS light will now be on, HICAS wont :D If anyone else tries it, please let me know what you think. Cheers

The TT would run right off the end of the load scales on a NA map I would think (can't chack because I don't have any BINS at work).

Cool, cheers.

I've had very quick FWD and RWD cars (205Gti with 2.3 16v engine, works grp A running gear / diff & ZX) There's no comparison for driving enjoyment, which is what it's all about at the end of the day. If you race competitively then fair enough, otherwise does it matter if one is 2s quicker around the track if it's a crap drive. Yeah, my 205 would take the Z apart on the track, but on the road it was a nighmare, all torque steer and wheelspin and honestly felt like it was trying to kill you half the time. FWD with big power / torque is just useless really. The Z on the other had makes me grin every time I take it out, so I'll stick with that. It's horses for courses really.

Short out the level sensor on the fluid tank and that's it.