AndrewG

For a TT auto transmission: https://nissan.epc-data.com/fairlady_z/gcz32/6035-vg30dtt/trans/317/31728/ https://nissan.epc-data.com/fairlady_z/gcz32/6035-vg30dtt/trans/312/31397/

From the man himself: Additional info on what to do with excess loom: https://aus300zx.com/index.php?threads/engine-bay-harness-pics.337837/

I plan to have the EGR system removed when the engine is out for the "bolt-ons" (plus the MSP manifold is missing the EGR connection). How difficult it is to remove all the EGR stuff with the engine in I can't say. Perhaps someone who has experience can comment. Some background info: http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=967920 http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/197828.html

Those are your PCV valve hoses. Originally they are pliable rubber but go hard with age and are renewed when replacing the PCVs. This guide gives a couple of hose removal tips. http://www.ttzd.com/tech/pcvtech.html These photos will give you a better idea of what you are dealing with. https://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_images/1994_engine_pics.pdf

Replace: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2610744/Here-is-how-it-works.html

Best wishes on your Birthday Gary!

Looks good Arthur. When you have has a chance to drive the car again, would you post up your experience of driving and changing gears with the vacuum reservoir tanks missing?

Best wishes on your Birthday Tony!

Where is the check valve?

Have you thought about "silvering" the inside of the fog lamp housing that is visable through the lense? Joel did it to his lamps and I plan to do the same.

See what comes away with a screwdriver and remove the rust till you hit sound metal. What is the condition of the n/s sill?

Went for $26K.

Well someone got a great deal, the car was sold for $18,500.

Yes, you can run water down the drain hole at the rear of the targa (pic shows n/s but same for o/s). It should exit via a plastic pipe on a good sill in a exit slot formed in the lower edge of the sill. Here is another thread which deals with the damage to the rear sill section. https://www.groundupbuilds.com/blog/2017/9/25/more-rust-z32-project-chapter-two

Regarding the o/s rear sill. Usually the culprit for serious corrosion appearing on the outer sill is a blocked or detached rear targa drain inside the sill assembly. It also means that the corrosion is a lot worse than you can see. This thread (and the linked thread from redwine300 within - scroll down a bit) shows the likely damage and work involved in fixing it. It can be repaired but it is a lot of work. https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/thanks-everyone.15465/

This may help (you are not the first): http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2520707/anyone-seen-this-error-before-with-conzult-.html

Seller negotiated a sale to a high bidder for $36K. Car on its way to a private collection in Dubai.

Email sent.

Nissan Terrano II (or Ford Maverick) has them.

Didn't make the seller's reserve, it did however get to $30K.

1990 Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo Manual with 16km on the clock https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1990-nissan-300zx-twin-turbo-46/

There are two TrueType fonts available (Nissan standard font Nissan decal fonts). If you need them I can send them to your business email address.

The Ronin key looks really nicely made and finished. I understand that GZA are in the process of making more keys, but are changing the design subtly from OEM to make it easier to indentify them and stop them being passed off as original. The 300ZX text cut through of the Ronin key is nicely executed and achives the same end.

One of the TT.net members has posted pictures comparing OEM to GZA and the Japanese replicas. http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2644096/Comparison-of-replica-Titanium-Keys.html