AndrewG

Having got seperated I headed to Tilgate Park as our lunch stop. The car park was absolutely rammed and I didn't see you there so I headed back home. A few pics below from the lovely drive out by the coast. We had a great tour guide! Nice to catch up with you all.

On my way.

Welcome Kieran, you will probably have more success on the Zclub.net site for your Z31 speedo problem: https://zclub.net/ https://zclub.net/community/index.php?search/2498936/&q=speedo&o=date&c[node]=4

Who knows, perhaps printed media will have a comeback rather like vinyl records.

I would swap them over, they are there for a reason.

There are two parts. Nissan describes two ways of replacing the bit you can see (T piece) or both of them. 72752-30P10 (Top Moulding "T") 72725-30P01 (Fastner)

For car parts you will be charged duty (4.5%) on the declared value of the goods and then VAT (20%) on the goods, the shipping and duty combined. Plus a courier handing admin fee for customs clearance (usually £12 to £20 depending on the courier). You can appeal if you don't feel the amount charged is correct. I don't find buying parts from the US or ouside the EU to be a minefield, in fact it is a pretty straight forward process and is unaffected by any UK/EU trading terms now or in the future. As for buying parts from the EU from next year, we don't know what the terms will be yet, but if they are on WTO then we will follow the same sort of process as buying from say the US. It's not that hard to do.

With good weather I do like a drive through the English countryside and picnic. Thanks to Nips and Naz for organising the day.

Get them while you can. NLA in Japan. https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-nissan-jdm-1999-fairlady-z-hid-xenon-headlights-nissan-300zx-z32-26010-vp126-kt_p_361.php

In my experience it will get to the local delivery depot and be held pending payment of customs and handling charges.

These are the pages from the Nissan Body Repair Manual which cover sill and rear section repair. BRM 69-76.pdf BRM 17.pdf

This thread by a member on here (redwine300) and you can see what is involved for sills etc. https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/thanks-everyone.15465/

I have the full registration now and see that it is on a SORN but with a new MOT expiring Jan '21. I'll update my records. It would be great to see some photos of the car.

Could well be the last white UK spec built Jim and 1541 out of 1548 total recorded in FAST. I have the car in the DB as below. Is it back on the road?

Perfectly understandable in the current circumstances. Replacing the faulty injector with a known good one as a temporary measure makes sense. You could also carry out the injector circuit modification to replace the constant +12v supply to the injectors with a switched supply (ignition on). This helps the longevity of the earlier injectors with their exposed (to petrol) coils which fail due to corrosion (Nissan made this change with the '95 engine harness). The new EPROM is required to get the fueling adjusted for the bigger injectors.

Provided you have the dosh, my suggestion would be to go for 740cc injectors (the later Pintle-less type) which are resistant to ethanol (in petrol) damage and failure together with the injector plenum adapter kit and a suitable remapped EPROM from someone like Speciality-Z in the US. You would also need the later style electrical plugs for the 740cc injectors.

In Europe: http://dta-motorsport.com/

Cabin temperature sensor - along with applying a light grade oil, you can also adjust the set screw - correct tension is necessary for the fan to work without squealing. http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/FAQ/FAQpages/tempfan.html

ConZult https://conzult.com/

From my DB of UK specs I so far have the records of 203 cars out of 1548 recorded in FAST (Nissan's parts DB) and working from the last cars made 'Dec '93 backwards (plus a smattering of earlier cars). I have 26 Taxed and 32 MOTd. That figure will probably have changed since I started, but it gives you a picture of the state of play for the later cars.

Someone's been cutting your hair then!

It will be the best £20 you will spend restoring your UK spec.

Lots of work to do then! If you take the time to go through this thread by a member on here (redwine300) you can see what is involved for sills etc. https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/thanks-everyone.15465/

It may be the power window module has developed a fault (poor solder connections): https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/topic/114853-repair-window-module/ Sometimes you can get the thing temporarily working by pressing down on the button and thumping the door. To fix the door card needs to come off (the same applies to a seized window motor).