300zxfishy

By taking the battery off ? Haven’t done it in a while but have tried it a few times since maf replacement thanks

I’ve seen some comparison videos at 1200-1250 rpm and there mafs are at 1.4v i haven’t tried the screw yet seems quite awkward to get to but may try within the week, do you go counter or clockwise to get the idle down ? Also how many turns does it go ? thanks

Hi does anyone have a maf I can try on my 300zx that is fully working ? I currently have 3 here but the voltage is showing quite high closer to Bristol the better and will return it to you, can leave some money with you until it’s returned thanks

Just an update, not sure if the maf is playing up still because when I check the voltage it’s 1.7V at my idle speed it 1350-1400 i have 2 Oem mafs here one reads 1.71V one reads 1.8V also have a Chinese maf that reads 1.89-1.9V the car is fully warmed up and idle is 1350-1400 im under the impression the voltage should be a lot lower ? any input welcome thanks

Yeah going to ring him tomorrow to confirm he never gave me a date yet but hopefully this week just trying to do what I can

I will have a look tomorrow if I can see 2 sensors on the app, cheers

https://imgur.com/gallery/RthfJyv would this be the value in my app under 02 ? Uploaded a picture on the link above thanks

No errors on the app at all

The maf has came already and it’s the one in currently, is there any way to test the O2 sensors ? thanks there’s no errors codes

I had found 2 leaks from the hard pipes which were blocked off with a screw and 2 short pieces of silicone, I could blow through them where the screws were to small, i think they’re blanked as I have a electric boost controller one leak was on a DV valve pipe had a small slit in it, one was a upper intercooler hose which needed snugging up if I unplug the maf while it’s running it does within 10 seconds and runs rougher thanks

Just an update still no difference I have fixed 4 boost leaks, reset the TPS to the correct range 0.44v, I boost leak tested it and sorted 4 leaks out, I’m still idling around 1500-1600 rpm and then it will start bouncing still the hard idle switch is working fine on the TPS as I have the Nissan app and have checked it’s opening and closing the car won’t start at all if the maf is unplugged though someone said it should run with it unplugged, any idea what could cause this ? thanks

Thanks for all the responses, I’m waiting on another MAF and should be able try that mid week, I’m also waiting for Jimmer to have a slot as I’m based in Bristol and his unit is only a few miles away, as soon as he has a slot I’ll drop it up to him I was just trying to see if I can find any obviously faults before hand I can’t visually see any problems with pipes, I bought the car with this issue, the previous owner had the engine out refreshed quite a lot of stuff but then had the problem and just left it on his driveway thanks

Hi, thanks for the reply’s I ran code testing today and code 34 came up which is the knock sensor, I have the right resistance on the loom to the ecu so I used a 1m resistor to see if the code did go away which it did, so only have code 55 which is all clear any other suggestions ? thanks

Hi, I recently purchased a 300 and I have the current problem with idle and black smoke 300zx TT black smoke and bouncing idle 500-1750rpm when warm when it’s cold it sits at 1500rpm but as soon as it’s warm it just keep bouncing up and down from 500-1750rpm with black smoke any help or suggestions or anyone who has had this problem before please let me know thanks