AndrewG

Danny, before I fitted the GHK there was very noticeable GH with the Selin dual maf setup (there was no Pssst noise that I could hear) With the GHK fitted, the Pssst noise became quite noticeable. The stonger springs in the GHK make the recircs operate under higher vacuum conditions than before, but it still operates as a recirc to divert excess pressure and stop the turbine stalling. Reading through the information on the BDE site on recircs and how the GHK works, I took the pssst to be happening because the recirc was opening later and therefore dumping compressed air more aggressively. Of course I could be wrong, here are the links: http://bde-performance.com/goose.htm (what the stiffer GHK springs do) and http://bde-performance.com/goose_how.htm (how recircs work)

Tom, it seems to me that "surge" and "stall" are interchanged. It would be interesting to know what your technicians would call the phenomena with the Z32 throttle closed from WOT and the turbine slowing down rapidly as a result (if there were no recircs/bovs). What happens with a Gnome engine during shutdown - does the compressor continue to run and therefore require venting? Here is a Greddy/Pentroof setup with an external wastegate, in this case the wastegate exhaust has been redirected back into the main exhaust (for noise reasons). Otherwise, the wastegate would vent to atmosphere with the "screamer" sound. Some of you may recognise the engine.

I would have thought that paint found in the door jams and on the body under the rear hatch is most likely to be representative of the orginal Nissan 326 colour. It should have had the least exposure to the elements. I know that when I had the rear bumper and spoiler painted the sprayer explained that although the colour was TK3, he had correction codes to allow for age and weathering.

With the GHK fitted, compressed air being suddenly released back into the inlet track. Compressor surge = uncontrollable turbine overrun. Example video: [video=youtube_share;nCj6Spwl1CU] Compressor stall = back pressure through compressor turbine when throttle is closed from WOT. The stock recircs are primarily there to prevent compressor stall and so improve drivability: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/FAQ/FAQpages/bov.html By the way read "stall" for "surge" in the FAQ!

So you have just lost the connection back into the inlet track downwind of the MAF with your custom piping? That position in the photo is also the location for the stock recircs.

How is does the wastegate noise on the exhaust side get into the inlet side?

So where are your BOVs located in your custom piping?

Try this one: [video=youtube_share;ffq2oaEZnUo]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Lamborghini-Reventon-kit-car-Twin-Turbo-dohc-v6-tiptronic-auto-MUST-SEE-/261516107478?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item3ce3931ed6&_uhb=1

I know how they "come on". Your wording of "The dipped beam is of the projector type - so it looks like it "could" be OEM" read oddly to me.

The paint code is the important bit. My car's colour TK3 is called Marine Blue Graphite Pearl in the brochure but is also known as Sapphire Blue.

Which is?

Makes you wonder if the previous owner sold it to him as a TT.

The G is for your leather trim. The 326 is Arctic White.

I think Tom's over egging it a bit there with "Kssssk-chirrup", my BDE recirs are more "Pssst Pssst".

What does it say on the VIN plate? Just checked my UK brochure and Artic White 326 is listed as colour option for series two cars.

This thread contained the subject of PS coolers. Here is a post on TT.net with folks experiencing PS failures through overheating when using their cars on the track: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2576746/Power-steering-pump-issue-after-track-session.html

This diagram shows various cross-sections including the sills:

Welcome!

I would have thought phoning in sick would be the last thing someone would be thinking about when suffering a cardiac arrest!

The usual problem with the starter working loose is the bolts being *over* tightend and striping the thread in the alloy bellhousing. This allows the starter to work loose. A slighly longer bolt to re-engage further into the bellhousing or a helicoil will fix the problem.

What did you torque the spacer to wheel bolts too?

And the other side?

Let me know when you want the Conzult "clean bill of health" check.

For your budget, 4K would have got you this (now sold - scroll down a bit to see details): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A-Formidable-Z32-Nissan-300ZX-Twin-Turbo-with-Full-History-and-an-Amazing-Tale-/281256996622?ViewItem=&item=281256996622&nma=true&si=ntkS64E2D6S%252BULMo0NWqPivUSrE%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 A UK car with known history and service record. Cars of that condition do come up for sale, but not very often. It is really down to your budget and experience. Buy cheap, repair yourself (expensive if you are relying in professional body and/or mechanical repairs) or wait for a good one which you could enjoy straight away.