AndrewG

See post #3...

Sorry I missed your Birthday yesterday Terry, but Best Wishes!

You will need to enlarge the starter motor flange slot if you go for M12. An alternative is to go for a longer M10 bolt as the original bolt only goes part of the way into the bellhousing. I found that the AC compressor mounting bolts are long enough to do the job without protruding beyond the bellhousing material.

And that huge aircraft is flown with a joystick for a control column! At least Boeing stuck with a proper one. Have fun in the States and slap on plenty of HF sun cream!

How to and part #s for Tamiya gears in here (scroll down for adjusters): http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_images/H-L_Disassembly.pdf

I have Eibach Pro-Kit Springs which have 0.8 inch drop when used with KYB AGX shocks. They are marked 6320.001 for the fronts and 6320.002 for the rears. You can see the stance on 18" wheels in the garage photos: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/dbtgallery.php?do=browse_user&userid=14484&gal=dbtgallery&id=21&type=albums

Really? This information fromGreg@SZ may help: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2421113/I-do-not-recommend-blow-off-valves-on-the-Z.html

The hazard switch effectively bridges the stalk switch for L&R indicators, so you symptoms suggest the stalk is malfunctioning or the local wiring is faulty. You could also check the connector to the stalk.

The green repeater lights in the top of the instrument panel are doing what (for stalk operation and hazard switch)?

My apologies, my post above implies that the engine should be off, FSM states that engine should be running, have another go...

Rich, I get the same readings as groover's results above (on entry to diags - 15 with a dash under it and demist symbol). This is without the engine started (should be running as per FSM diag instructions). I can't start the engine at the moment as I'm servicing the car, but have you got the engine running?

Here are the pages from the '96 FSM for the relevant sections for the cigarette lighter circuit. The '96 diagrams are easier to follow than those published in earlier FSMs. The 20A fuse shown on EL-170 (fuse position 5 - kick space fuse block) is shown incorrectly on EL-11 as going to the horn. The accessory fuse is on the reverse side of the kick space fuse block. The "blue" fuse is in the fusible link holder in the engine bay o/s back of suspension turret. You can use the diagrams to trace back the fault to the battery. el-10.pdf el-11.pdf el-170.pdf

Did you take a look at pages HA-119 -> HA-123 to follow self-diagnostics steps?

If the second invoice is from SE, then the prices for the injectors and ICs are inline with the published prices in their catalogue of that period.

Terry, I know you've had your ups and downs with this project, but take it easy mate!

Except that the picture is of an A380...

Ignition ON, push "AUTO" and "OFF" buttons for 5 seconds+ puts the system into self-diagnostics. The self-diagnostics are described in the FSM section HA pages 118 and on: http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/ha/118.gif

How to and part # for Tamiya gears in here (scroll down for adjusters): http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_images/H-L_Disassembly.pdf

Alternatively, you could wire it into the interior light circuit controlled by the door switches (diode connected).

Your KYBs were yellow?

Here is the circuit diagram which includes the PTU: http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=efec&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=13&design=default&total=190

This was my solution to leaving the indicators on problem: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?173537-Extra-turn-indicator-warning-lamp

My series 2 UK brochure has Panther Black (GL1) as one of the colour options (a solid colour).

Why, because he dosen't care what people think and wants to "get a rise out of people in Mailibu with all their money with his angry fast crazy RX7" It's not my cup of tea, but it made me smile watching the video, and that's good enough for me.

Take a look at all the pcb component solder joints for dry/cracked joints.