AndrewG

To rule out pressure in the system holding the pads on you could try opening the caliper bleed valves. Are the pads new? There should be some movement between them and the caliper body, is there? Make sure they are not binding. Can you jiggle them about? This is the FSM for the front caliper and shows assembly order (pads,shims etc): http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/br/012.gif

Before replacing the caliper piston seals did you thoroughly clean the grooves the seals fit in? Also, did you soak the seals in brake fluid before refitting them and the pistons?

Nobody is DOUBTING you!

Is the part for a UK mirror the same? If so I have one, would save dismantling a complete unit. Has the same N18 stamp.

Terry, you did see this? Blue UK glass -> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-300ZX-Z32-UK-PASSENGER-DOOR-WINDOW-GLASS-/190909734569?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c731b5ea9

I would think his neighbour does too!

Blue UK glass -> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-300ZX-Z32-UK-PASSENGER-DOOR-WINDOW-GLASS-/190909734569?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c731b5ea9

According to the FSM they are separate circuits, with a variable resistor and switch (located in the sender unit in the tank) controlling the gauge and lamp respectively. http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/el/066.gif http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/el/070.gif

That looks serious!

FSM section HA pages: http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/ha/168.gif http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/ha/052.gif http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/ha/053.gif

To be sure of the windscreen tint just check the other windows.

Very basic design, here is a photo:

...and here is a "how to": http://www.thumper300zx.com/z32/boostleaks/boost_leak_guide.htm

Well I would say that ~£30 was a reasonable price to pay for a CNC'd part and bolts and P&P. Well done for having a go.

Is that a CNC'd part?

I'm after a pair of inner door mirror covers for a project. Fixing clips need to be intact. Anyone got a pair they could let me have?

This thread covers Brembo bleeding process (and calipers with inner/outer bleed nipples): http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?170794-brake-bleed&highlight=brembo The ABS on our cars is F&R (front indepently controlled, rears together). Also, your new blue brake line does not appear to have the fixings to stop it moving about. Please don't take you car for a test drive until you have fully bled the brakes.

Those wanting one of these might want to check with AndyZ (http://www.supercarparts.co.uk) or another breaker. I got mine from Andy. He had a number of bonnets with the blankets still attached. I just picked the one that was in perfect condition. Of course, his stock may have changed since then. Also, you will need the bonnet attachment clips (I ordered from MJP) as you may find it difficult to remove the existing ones without damaging them.

Have you had a look on TT.net? google -> leader gears noise site:http://www.twinturbo.net One thing that comes up is noise with solid/hard bushings: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2269441/410-Leadergears-feedback-re-gear-whine-I-am.html Also correct setup for pinion depth, pinion bearing preload, backlash and carrier bearing preload: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2281467/Differential-gear-noise-semi--dissertation.html Not the same company, however the setup principles will remain the same: http://www.differentials.com/technical-help/installation-instructions Hope this helps. Edit: this is the installation quide by Richmond (they make the Z32 gears for Leader): http://www.richmondgear.com/pdf/ringandpinion.pdf

Has the other side come undone? I would use Plus Gas as it is a proper release agent whereas WD-40 is a water displacement/anti corrosion agent.

Remove the spring clip (arrowed), then spanner on flexible pipe union and brake pipe spanner on hardline union. Same for other end of line.

This should help you out: http://www.ttzd.com/tech/linestech.html

Check condition of bodywork for rust and/or poor repairs. Sills, in particular the sill area (inner and outer) in front of the rear wheels. Wheel arches. Signs of body filler or patching and/or recent resprays to hide poorly repaired rust damage. UK cars are protected to the same degree as imports by the factory for corrosion resistance but generally have had the most exposure to salting in the winter. We have a number of Zeds on here that were bought cheap and have been found to require extensive repairs due to rust damage and have then been beyond the capabilities and/or funds to repair, so have been scrapped and broken up. Would be wise to check before spending money on servicing jobs. Having said that it would be great to see another UK spec car saved.

Welcome! The more UK Zeds the better, so pictures and more details please. Here to help.

A similar situation (small claims track advice): http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/askhj/answer/23781/insurance-claim