AndrewG

So you have just lost the connection back into the inlet track downwind of the MAF with your custom piping? That position in the photo is also the location for the stock recircs.

How is does the wastegate noise on the exhaust side get into the inlet side?

So where are your BOVs located in your custom piping?

Try this one: [video=youtube_share;ffq2oaEZnUo]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Lamborghini-Reventon-kit-car-Twin-Turbo-dohc-v6-tiptronic-auto-MUST-SEE-/261516107478?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item3ce3931ed6&_uhb=1

I know how they "come on". Your wording of "The dipped beam is of the projector type - so it looks like it "could" be OEM" read oddly to me.

The paint code is the important bit. My car's colour TK3 is called Marine Blue Graphite Pearl in the brochure but is also known as Sapphire Blue.

Which is?

Makes you wonder if the previous owner sold it to him as a TT.

The G is for your leather trim. The 326 is Arctic White.

I think Tom's over egging it a bit there with "Kssssk-chirrup", my BDE recirs are more "Pssst Pssst".

What does it say on the VIN plate? Just checked my UK brochure and Artic White 326 is listed as colour option for series two cars.

This thread contained the subject of PS coolers. Here is a post on TT.net with folks experiencing PS failures through overheating when using their cars on the track: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2576746/Power-steering-pump-issue-after-track-session.html

This diagram shows various cross-sections including the sills:

Welcome!

I would have thought phoning in sick would be the last thing someone would be thinking about when suffering a cardiac arrest!

The usual problem with the starter working loose is the bolts being *over* tightend and striping the thread in the alloy bellhousing. This allows the starter to work loose. A slighly longer bolt to re-engage further into the bellhousing or a helicoil will fix the problem.

What did you torque the spacer to wheel bolts too?

And the other side?

Let me know when you want the Conzult "clean bill of health" check.

For your budget, 4K would have got you this (now sold - scroll down a bit to see details): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A-Formidable-Z32-Nissan-300ZX-Twin-Turbo-with-Full-History-and-an-Amazing-Tale-/281256996622?ViewItem=&item=281256996622&nma=true&si=ntkS64E2D6S%252BULMo0NWqPivUSrE%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 A UK car with known history and service record. Cars of that condition do come up for sale, but not very often. It is really down to your budget and experience. Buy cheap, repair yourself (expensive if you are relying in professional body and/or mechanical repairs) or wait for a good one which you could enjoy straight away.

What was the condition of the body? Sills, in particular the sill area (inner and outer) in front of the rear wheels. Wheel arches. Signs of body filler or patching and/or recent resprays to hide poorly repaired rust damage. UK cars are protected to the same degree as imports by the factory for corrosion resistance but generally have had the most exposure to salting in the winter. Check carefully, ideally get the car up on a ramp to inspect.

Very smart, look forward to seeing in the metal. That plenum looks superb!

Exciting times! What colour?

Nice colour!