Everything posted by AndrewG
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The kit from CZP for BBKs uses banjo fittings: This is the kit I fitted to the AP F&R calipers, but would also work with Brembo calipers with same type of fitting (as per evo calipers pictured above).
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The picture I posted was for R33 Brembos. I was able to stretch the existing hardlines to reach the new position with the Brembos. The fitting on the Brembo would take either type of connection (stock type or banjo). Got a picture of the new brake lines you will get?
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5 psi is considered the safe maximum. Here is a useful guide on boost leak location: http://www.thumper300zx.com/z32/boostleaks/boost_leak_guide.htm
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What happened to the stock hardlines that run from the original calipers to the flexible lines?
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With the rear of the car on axle stands at the rear jacking points, use a trolley jack under the rear hub to compress the suspension up to the point the car just starts to lift. The suspension will be in the driving position (to all intents) and you will then be able to see the true relation of the wheel to the bodywork.
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The copy I have has a section: 4. Warning Setup Mode If the pressure in the surge tank exceeds the set boost warning level, it will trigger the warning function. When the warning funtion is activated, the boost will return to stock (baseline). Sounds like the condition you described?
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Have you got the manual for that EVC model?
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Not than I am aware. The Japanese parts diagram I have for the 99 spec front bumper dosen't show an "all in one" part # (adl) phoenix may be better able to confirm that though. CZP in the US does list the other items under the main 62022-VP125 part.
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The full description of what is going on with "Goose Honk" is: http://bde-performance.com/goose_how.htm Nothing really to do with increased boost pressure or parts wearing out. The noise is in fact masked by stock filter boxes and is exposed by changing to aftermarket filters and especially the move to the Selin/dual filter setup.
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Well done Tom, hope to see the car in the metal one day.
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The full monty for 99 spec:
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See the comments posted below pics for experiences with different bits: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/main/view/1014990/Injector-Dremel-method-pics-for-reference.html
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Just use google -> [search terms] site:http://www.twinturbo.net. Usually gets you close to where you want to go!
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ebay listing is Interior Innovations "version" of zthirtytwo bezel: http://www.interior-innovations.com/index.php/welcome/product_detail/70 The debate on TT.net: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2543634/Double-DIN-radio-bezels.html
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Which of those dimensions are you having problems with?
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En bloc? Get a place that has en-suite, much better!
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If you have got power (mains) where you store the car, get yourself a battery conditioner/charger.
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Those figures are from a US publication (Curb)?
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See post #3...
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Sorry I missed your Birthday yesterday Terry, but Best Wishes!
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You will need to enlarge the starter motor flange slot if you go for M12. An alternative is to go for a longer M10 bolt as the original bolt only goes part of the way into the bellhousing. I found that the AC compressor mounting bolts are long enough to do the job without protruding beyond the bellhousing material.
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And that huge aircraft is flown with a joystick for a control column! At least Boeing stuck with a proper one. Have fun in the States and slap on plenty of HF sun cream!
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How to and part #s for Tamiya gears in here (scroll down for adjusters): http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_images/H-L_Disassembly.pdf
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I have Eibach Pro-Kit Springs which have 0.8 inch drop when used with KYB AGX shocks. They are marked 6320.001 for the fronts and 6320.002 for the rears. You can see the stance on 18" wheels in the garage photos: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/dbtgallery.php?do=browse_user&userid=14484&gal=dbtgallery&id=21&type=albums
