JeffTT

For security reasons I have pmed you a possible solution. Jeff TT

Assume you changed the torque converter with the replacement box? Jeff Shift pattern here http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=at&dir=&config=&refresh=&slide=30&cycle=off&scale=0&design=default&total=194 http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=at&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=31&design=default&total=194

Oh crap! sorry to hear about your Dad, all the best for a speedy recovery. Jeff

Car is less than 15 miles from ZEDWORLD, can see of they would pop it over to us for a check over and let you know, they may or may not but if it makes a sale for them you never know, more than happy to do it for you free of charge of course. Jeff TT

Very likely and in larger amounts than here, trouble is like many trades there is a closed price disclosure that effects the final retail cost, there are overheads to cover, but I know, and so does any other long term Nissan trader here in the UK they have a schedules discount scale A to G and within those groups all of the saleable items are placed according to "possible " discount, by that its a maximum discount applicable, the dealer has flexibility to beat another dealer in real terms provided they stay within the guideline discounts. As we have traded for over 14 years we have had access to these codes years ago, but finding a dealer willing to move on them is very dependant upon the amount of commerce you do with them and how much their general manager will allow. As an example the humble standard clutch unit from Nissan was at one time around £310+ vat over the counter to joe public, however if pushed they would give 5% to make you feel good, but the discount code clutch`s fall in to is one that gave up to 65% discount so far from giving you 5% they were raping you for 60% !! as I said overheads have to be met and profit made but my gut feeling is Nissan is doing very well out of over charging for 300zx spare parts and so are some traders who have a "special" deal with their dealer. Sorry to of gone off the OP subject. Jeff TT

The dealer mark up is the issue here( Nissan) if you stripped away their 30% it makes for much nicer deal, we had a tame dealer many several years ago who was happy with 5% and we could get them for around £240 + £60 for the indicators, they have now become just greedy, Genuine Nissan rear shocks were £30 and now more than £120 !!!! Jeff TT

With the greatest respect it took me best part of four times to read your original post to make head of it????? unclear and ambiguous makes it very hard to diagnose especially for aspiring posters. Ok going by your one description of it feeling like it is running out of fuel then it is NOT the temp sensor as this would make it run lumpy as it would be running rich, however again from your description of it running okay other times then its is very likely a connection issue, quite where is not always clear and would be inclined to make a general check of all easy connection as a start point from the afm, tps, cas and more. Jeff TT

Real nice link there Andrew to a US site but plenty answers here on this site: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?169704-Change-an-injector-dremel-method&highlight=injector http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?168336-Injector-changing&highlight=injector http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?168387-Injector-wars!!&highlight=injector Jeff TT

Here is my tool of choice...

Normally the relay is mounted at the right rear cluster, usually on crimps or scotch locks so should be easy to swap over. Jeff TT

No need to drop the sub frame, just the steering rack shaft, also as Mikey pointed out the brake booster can be left in, moving the master cylinder to the side is possible so no bleeding of the brakes after but no biggy either way. Jeff TT

Why wait for your policy to run out? get a quote from another insurer based on you switching to them. life`s too short to wait 8 months to get cover, you custom will be welcome somewhere else. Jeff TT

Not a standard noise, when the clutch pedal is dipped the bearing is under the maximum load it works at, it also disconnects the first motion ( gearbox input) shaft from the engine drive, so the only thing spinning is the release bearing. I hate so to say it but if the bearing is making noise now it is not going to go any quieter, please tell me you had a new one fitted when the gearbox was fitted?? because if not it will need changing and buy a genuine one not a spurious no make. Jeff TT

Check the tyre pressures makes a world of difference, even if they look ok. Jeff TT

Got to say Richard what a super bit of kit and why on earth would anyone want a zed as well as one of those???????? but wait its the zedtasticness!! lol Jeff TT

Confusing thread this especially for nubies, to be clear the wastegate is part of the turbo and not what your all discussing, either stock re-circ valve after market blow off valve or dump valves not wastegate. Jeff TT

Yes thats fine. Jeff TT

So happy for you its done :biggrin: but some of the prices I have been seeing here and hearing about elsewhere are getting ridiculously low, you have done well Derek but I fear for the knock on effect of such :no: Jeff TT

The unit can be removed by undoing the 10 mm bolts, unplug and pull it out slowly, clean the surfce and apply a bead of sealant in the groove and carefully refit, do not be tempted to over tighten the bolts, this does not make the seal only holds it in place. Jeff TT

So a little bit of fun here no names no need for that just an insight into pricing of work on zeds 14 years ago and some a little sooner, have loads of these receipts and some of the prices are mind boggling... So a run of the mill oil change, nothing simpler.....how much would you pay? A more serious upgrade one here, but given I know this ecu has a generic chip in the software cost was enormous.. Have some more howlers I will take pics and post some more, I have been crying with laughter here at some, the garages must have just been thinking up numbers and doubling them and then double again...Lol Jeff TT

Here is how, from last year: Anyone who has worked or tried to work down the back of the zed engine knows that the space between the bulkead and the engine is at a premium. Unfortunately there are a lot water pipes down there and when they need attention it cam be a royal pain but even the metal water pipes from the engine to the heater matrix can loose the corrosion battle. The pictures give a little indication what is involved to remove the steel pipes, with the exception of the missing skin of the back of my hand but hey that goes with the territory! Could not take a picture when my hands were down there but believe me it was tight to get the drivers side pipe fixings as they turn back into the engine, and of course getting them back in.... that`s another story! If you fancy having a go at this job move as much of the loom that you can and the battery cable to the starter motor, locking the bonnet right back is essential too, I use a foam lie down slab and end up liying down on the engine its works for me anyhow. Jeff TT

Yes, done it a few times. Jeff TT

Just to clarify both of the metal pipes can be changed without removing the plenum the passenger side one is the easier one but the drivers side one although a complete arse is doable. Jeff TT

Prior to changing the display to series ll what was the ambient temp ( outside ) showing, by any chance was it a very high minus figure? if so points to outside temp sensor fault behind the bumper not plugged in. Jeff TT

Reverse lights connection after a manual conversion :wink: Jeff