lonezedder

Have to say, it does scream disc fault. The fact all is smooth initially, then once used the wobble develops suggests the discs are distorting with some heat then returning to true when cooled down. Obviously nothing that will ever be seen by the eye. Even the mildest of distortion will cause that horrible wobble through the steering. Throwing a cheap pair of discs at the car first sounds like a good idea before replacing them with expensive ones.

Yes after reading these... https://www.carbuyingadvisor.co.uk/car-dealer-review/motorhub/a2b32f2d-91f6-4b82-b00b-f0740212af84 I wont be going any where near. It'll be clocked and badly resprayed based on those reviews with an undisclosed gremlin or two! Buyer beware! Its amazing the law allows this type of venture to continue. :(

Thank you. Oh dear. Such terrible reviews I won't even risk a visit. Spent enough time running up n down the country looking at trash Zeds, not as described. :( https://www.carbuyingadvisor.co.uk/car-dealer-review/motorhub/a2b32f2d-91f6-4b82-b00b-f0740212af84

Anyone know anything about this Zed? On paper it looks super good really, 22k miles and pictures look mint. Its been for sale a while though. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1993-Nissan-300-ZX-3-0-TWIN-TURBO-TARGA-Auto-2dr/282710104955?hash=item41d2d5db7b:g:FT0AAOSwNWxZ9GYh

Its likely the rears will rub on the arches with that width and offset unless you roll your arches. Fronts might be ok, would sit quite flush, but could have rubbing issues with lock. Common sizes for our Zed are front 8.5 ET 25-40 rears 9.5 ET 35-40. The LOWER the ET, the further out the wheel will sit, and obviously wheel width is important as too wide will create both inner and outer clearances issues. FYI - if I remember the stock JSPEC Z runs 7.5" wide wheels with an offset of 35 all round. Play with this offset calculator to understand it all better.... https://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator There is also an element of guess work in how well they fit so quite a good idea to find some wheels known to fit the Zed without issue. Look at various examples on this forum. Tyres size choice is also important in relation to the wheel width chosen too, as getting this wrong can end up causing scrubbing. Too wide a tyre might cause scrubbing because it doesn't stretch over the wheel nicely, too narrow gives an over stretched look and reduces rim protection. Hope this helps.

Worth it though.

Did you know the J spec cars don't have any cooler for the diff oil? I've had 2 of them and never had a problem with the diff. To that end if your lines are corroding, I'd consider deleting the whole lot, simplifying the car a little more and saving a bit more weight. :)

^^^Really pleased for you Jimbo. Some what pissed at it being the prop though since I bought a brand new one to eliminate this as the cause...waste of money that was. But at least you have a prop with brand new U/J's, still it should have been perfectly balanced already.

I've had 2 Zeds and change the sensor on both. One an 89, the other a 93. Both had sensor on the passenger side. :)

I think its a function that allows for switchable maps for different fuel usage to keep the AFR correct.

One side is a doddle to fit, the other a PITA, but totally doable. I had to come up for air a few times and throw some tools around to let of steam, but got there in the end! :)

A poorly MAF can cause poor idle. You asked for a range of answers....:)

If you can confirm the car is safe, straight, true and in generally excellent order and you are very, very confident that if you will keep it for many years then I see no problem. As long as you get many years of enjoyment out of it that's all that matters. It will probably always be worth less than a car that has got this issue, but keep it long enough and I dare say you'd still get your money back. If keeping it I'd get the grinded area repaired and forget about it. I'll be honest I didn't pay any attention to vin numbers or engine numbers on my last 2 Zeds, any potential future buyer might not either. And at the end of the day, if you successfully get UK registration and develop say 10 years of UK MOT, service history and get it top notch, a future buyer might not give a stuff. :)

Just another bell end trying to sell a dog. :(

^^^ Now that sounds interesting! Might be worth a shot. James, firstly I'd try removing the subframe locking collars things. This is an easy job and would be worth a try. That said, they wont be the cause of any vibration, they may just amplify them. I really don't think its the propshaft, we've both covered that. Save your effort there. Personally, I think the problem is within the rear subframe. Either the diff or driveshaft/s. And I would consider getting someone to just swap out the complete rear end with one from a breaker. The man in Doncaster I've mentioned would do this for a fair price and might have one? I don't think the wheels are the issue either, really I don't. They were bought new to eliminate this as a cause. The vibration didn't change from the wheels previously fitted, but I'm surprised that they are slightly buckled, they really shouldn't be! If you insist on trying the wheels, pick up a pair of original wheels ( Personally, I don't recommend poly bushes except when the price is just far too expensive for the OEM bushes. Fit OEM if possible for best balance of performance and comfort. Many will disagree here though, but I think Nissan engineers know best after investing millions in R n D. If you change the subframe bushes I think OEM are obsolete, so fit the softest possible replacement. Please don't do the solid thing. You'll regret it, there are some members on here that can vouch for this. Finally be double sure there is no play at the rear wheels, I think I'd sorted that though and all was nice and tight.