JeffTT

You got a km to miles convertor ready to fit? Jeff

Maybe the cat was falling rather than jumping, maybe after been "spooked" ( he he) Jeff

We never really know what going on do we 100 % but a little lightning of the picture and below you can see the culprit and no spooky things going on, the camera is low resolution when used in the dark and the motion blur kind of acts to make it more mysterious, the background has a lot of " noise" that was difficult to do anything with but nothing there just camera picking up some infra red light reflection. You can see the two white ghostly type things are a cats back paws as he jumped down of the window ledge..... seems you have a naught cat in the house yours or someone elses. Jeff TT

Know that car from early 2005, with same customer of ours until mid 2012, the next owner came to us in early 2013, but according to the Gov.uk site on a sorn and no MOT since 2013 which is one year after we last tested it! corrossion was an issue that plagued the car unfortunately from even early on. ✗No insurance ✗ No MOT Expired: 12 April 2013 ✔ SORN Jeff TT

Whatever the actual cause of the water loss get to the bottom of it fast, over heating is a guaranteed way to ruin a zed engine, could be front water pipes, water pump, turbo feed pipes or plenum water pipes. Jeff

Sounds like you have hicas arms instead of front steering arms. Jeff

The clutch is fluid operated and its sounds like you have a problem there not the actual clutch, check the fluid level first and then see if it needs bleeding, quite possible you have either a leak or low fluid that has allowed air into the system. Jeff TT

Rev counter gets its signal from the cas unit via the ecu loom, not a common problem to be honest. Jeff TT

Hiya Trish, Nice to see you back, been a few years since we last saw you at Zedworld, hopefully see you soon. Lynda & JeffTT

Automatic gearbox is holding first gear for a lot longer than it should and then shunts slightly into second. Not sure if its holding onto the other gears longer too, don't think so though and they all seem to change relatively smoothly. Common issue normally caused by the tps been incorrectly set. Does anyone have any studs that i can buy off them or where i can get them? Nissan main dealer, not expensive and better than used items.

No, saying that I am not a chef but can cook my dinner. Jeff TT

Warped discs is a misnomer, many disc manufacturer have details on their sites about this, the issue is caused by pad imprint which causes highs and lows on the face of the disc, when discs are skimmed in theory they are taken off a minute amount of metal, it is mainly pad imprinted material, Google it, there is plenty on it and just may be more cost effective to have them "cleaned up" Jeff TT

Given we know it does not cause any damage on the 300zx what your talking about is the actual Vosa advice that I highlighted, the key here though is the rules, regs and advice has to cover every car that can come in and every kind of roller tester so becomes generic in its application, any tester worth his salt will know what does and does not work in the real world and an experienced tester will have learnt many area`s of the test can be misleading, from this Terry I take it you never test cars with lsd or abs on the rollers? so you have not gained the knowledge then from actually trying it out to see if that is the case, widening your experience procedures is always a good thing and a little application of good sense goes a long way, but do accept in principle the rules state otherwise. Jeff TT

Hold on Terry you will have all of the UK z owners worried, at a pedestrian 3.5 miles per hour the brake roller stresses is negligible, any stresses on the LSD in normal road use will far exceed those resulting from being put on a brake test roller that works at 3.5 mph! You are correct in principle ( see Vosa MOT recomendation 3.7 Brake Performance (Roller Brake Test) attachment ) http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8719&d=1107464275 but been pedantic over the test was exactly we and you we saying not to be, zed owners have enough to worry about, in 14 years doing Mot tests on Zeds never seen a diff remotely damaged from it two minutes in the brake roller, saying that to fail on the roller the brakes do have to be bad as it is such an easy pass level. Jeff

Short cut of pictures from damage to fix below, this year has been a back to back sill welding marathon, this is an area that ALL owners need to check very thoroughly now, the one in the pics had side sills fitted and he was blissfully unaware until an eagle eye MOT tester looked down the end, lucky they were not blended in so a few self tapers later were off to reveal all, the other side was as bad and also inside the floor by the seat belt fixing!! Jeff

Yes agree with the sentiment there, its not like you want a bad MOT just a fair one that takes into account the age of the car and what is important, this is why we do so many MOT tests over the year with most of our 300zx customers passing first time, not all mind as nothing dangerous would ever be let through, having a good working understanding with your tester is important. Jeff TT

Would of made sense to have had had the MOT done when the other work was done before collecting, then always easier to be wise after the event, testing is very subjective with large sections of the test left to the testers opinion and judgement. Jeff TT

Given the original thread is not about a trader your generalisation input of "specialists" be it by observation or actual events is somewhat egotistic and frankly impertinent, if you look for imperfections you will find it , but to to corral all z traders within your narrow and confined statement is presumptive , a bit like me saying you own a zed so your a dick, not that I would but that is how your argument works against traders?????. Disappointing.... Jeff

If the hoses are not the problem, then check the free play at the brake pedal, the rod is adjustable and if wrongly adjusted will not release the brakes fully. Jeff TT

Save yourself the time of engine out, see the link below. Jeff TT http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?168325-Manifold-gasket-drivers-side

Drop the sump and see of the strainer needs cleaning, loss of fluid pressure and drive is often caused by this been semi-blocked. Jeff TT

Mmmm after bleeding what is effectively the end of the brake line circuit no fresh air should have been introduced to the abs unit unless the resevoir was allowed to drop too low when bleeding. However one thing always comes to mind when this happens when changing calipers or just pads and its how the bleeding was done at the brake pedal. Basically the master cylinder has a piston with a rubber seal on and this goes down the cylinder as the pedal is pressed, the fluid pressure builds up in front of the piston and this is transferred down the brake line to act on the caliper pistons. However the rubber wears and the cylinder becomes polished where the piston travel is in normal use, however if when bleeding the brakes, the pedal is completely depressed a the piston and seal goes further down the cylinder and this can be enough to pop the seal, I always would advise with an older master cylinder to never to fully depress the brake pedal when bleeding for this very reason. If there is really no air left in the system then its most likely the master cylinder seals have been compromised when bleeding. Note this does not apply to clutch pedal bleeding Jeff TT

No need to rush to get new 02 sensors, most owners just leave them disconnected even ok at MOT time. Jeff TT

If you mean the vacuum pipes that operate the recircs are not connected and the ends are open then you will have two large boost leaks via the non connected vacuum lines, this will cause the issues you have. Jeff TT

There is s bulb failure module clipped ( or dropped down and hanging on the loom) on the outside of the rear drivers light. these can fail on one of the outputs, if you power check which input does not have an associated output you can link them and take it out of circuit and get the lights working again, or get a replacement unit and just plug and play. Jeff TT