JeffTT

Ok here are the positions you need to know, all the pictures were taken whilst observing the wheel position and the zero point for the hicas sensor. Pic 1 shows wheel straight ahead, Pic 2 shows wheel centre section off Pic 3 shows wheel off and view of the sensor and the relative position for the sensor arc position Pics 4 shows zero point on the ConZult or similar If you match all the positions and you still getting a wrong value on the diagnostic screen then it must be an issue with the hicas sensor position. Jeff

Do you have a standard wheel or after market? either way once the wheel is off and boss if after market wheel you can see the hicas sensor, see if it looks to be in the correct position, do you have any issues with the indicators cancelling? Jeff TT

Yep!!

With misfire been a regular issue I have to deal with when a nice zed cam in last week that had just had the plenum off for rocker cover gaskets at another garage I half expected to find a loose or bad connection on an injector or coil pack. On arrival the owner gave me some more info, the garage had tried to fix the misfire and even replaced a coil pack connector and injector connector a coil pack and spark plug but could get nothing on cylinder no 4. When driving the car clearly was missing and popping on over run which as least suggested fuel was getting injected!! So you can see from the picture a generally ok job from a non specialist garage doing the rocker covers and plenum pull, but letting it go with a misfire was somewhat remiss though, anyhow a quick look and could see the coil pack connector had been changed very poorly with twisted cables and rubbish insulation tape/ Looking closer the poor connection and even less than useful insulation take did reveal something though, the cable colour`s where wrong as is the cable size for the coil pack connection. A few moments with a test meter and the problem was revealed, the coil pack connector and 02 sensor connection had been installed the wrong way around, the cable runs under the balancer bar and so had to be released to switch them back and sort out the dodgy connection, 10 minutes later and purring lovely, seen connectors mixed up before but cannot believe a garage could not trace it and then let the owner take it away....tut tut!! Jeff TT

Had a non turbo zed in for service and MOT etc. looked in good order until I held the steering wheel and it wobbled left and right and up and down and was not a nice feel when moving about let alone driving on the road. It had an after market Momo wheel and after a few frustrating moments with the ever so small bolts they love to use on steering wheels it took no time to find the problem. The after market boss was just wrong in many ways, it had been made to fit over the splines ( was tight) but the thread on the steering shaft passed though it too far and there was not enough thread to get the wheel tight so a spacer had been fitted and the spacer had broken up and hence the loose wheel. You switched on peeps will probably recognise the spacer used was a round nut off a tap connector !! been brass it had simply shattered under the load and really was dangerous, you have to ask why would some one risk such a thing???? So there was also a problem with the indicators not cancelling that was clearly dur to the boss been fitted upside down as can be seen by the gap for the horn push cable been at the near bottom ( red circle) and should be at the top so all in a naff job!! the owner wanted a standard wheel refitting and so all was returned to stock and as to be expected fitted perfectly and no more wobble steering wheel. Be careful all when something does not quite fit correctly there can be some dire consequences when it concerns steering and brake systems. Jeff TT

Sorry don`t seem to have had a pm from you in my in box? no mystery to the mapping it will be a JWT type that can run 1 bar easily and safely provided the engine is set up and running correctly and run on V power or similar. With timing, throttle balance tps and boost leaks all having elements that can compromise the set up it is very important before running at 1 bar that these are all checked and correctly adjusted. Jeff

Yes should be the other way around, or fit a one piece braided hose direct from the master cylinder. Jeff

Could be fuel just spilt over into the cylinder when the injector was out, or the lower injector seal has not seated or was missed and will flood the cylinder when the ignition is switched on ( if so will need injector removing again) or and worse case scenario some foreign object dropped down when the plenum was off but think from the locked engine its fuel. Jeff TT

Possibly fuel has filled one of the cylinders and effected hydro-locked, take out all of the spark plugs and see if it will turn over then ( fuel pump fuse removed ) and if fuel is ejected out of any cylinder. Jeff TT

Ha, ha, used all over the motoring world from clutches to brakes to engine tuning and as it often the case is bunkum (see link) http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/bunkum Jeff TT

The associated bolts of particular importance Flywheel Bolts Clutch cover bolts Bell housing bolts ( not all the same) Rear engine crank seal ( better to do it now) Jeff

Luke is top salesman and will often be seen exporting ice for igloos etc. electric fans are one of Luke`s top sale pushers.

Did he sell you an electric fan !!

Most people don`t know or understand how to use them is the problem. Jeff

Loved it!! Jeff

Could be a variety of things but fuel on the plugs is not proof the injectors are working correctly, they could have a poor spray pattern or could be leaking fuel drowning the plugs and hence the plug not firing, this could even causing some bore wash and hence the lower compression figures, test the injector resistance as a start and should be around 14 Ohms give or take. Jeff TT

To close, Noel you have by in far the most active mapping tech knowledge of anyone on the forum at this time and that`s cool kudo`s for you as I said before but there is a much bigger picture than just the map or just the chip that was my point. Jeff TT PS: I apologise to the op for taking the thread of topic slightly back to the original question now hopefully

Nothing brave Noel, firstly we do not use Mines ecu`s and have never repeat never lost an engine in 14 years as a consequence of running up to 1 bar of boost as I usually set it to be a maximum of that on cold ambient temperature and lower when higher ambient temperature, this why it is VITAL to do the whole set up so the engine is checked and checked again after the new map and boost settings are done, this is why selling "chips" to general public through the post is dangerous and potentially can cause issues with a badly set up engine, making random comments like "that`s brave" is counter productive to the membership who many are running just that set up from the many outlets that have done it over the years, you have been making some good progress with your mapping skills that has earned you some kudos which is cool but you need to address the whole picture when making statements or arguments for and against boost levels, mapping style, and set up. A certain tuner has a simple way of making money 10+ years ago and that was to turn the boost up and turn the base timing down, nothing more than that, horrendously stupid, a simple change of ownership and the new owner checks the timing and thinks oh retarded better move that back.........boom! so its not quite as simple as "thats brave" When you have done 14+ years on just zeds with no lost engines let me know always happy to listen to experience. Jeff

Ok some good replies there but your getting a bit bogged down in the technical circuitry, the power problem starts in the fuse box by the accelerator pedal. There are two fuses for the heater blower, these remain without power until the heater blower is activated from the pod, a relay in the fuse box ( rear) energises and powers up both fuses. So the start point is to check these two fuses are powered up when the heater pod is activated. The chances are they will not be, the relay on the rear of the fuse box is most likely corroded and has a poor contact, this is why sometimes it will work. Failed pods or heater ecu is rare so the next thing to do is to remove the fuse box and check out the rear relays and connections, also check the targa drain pipe as this is the most common reason for the relays/ fuse box to corrode. Will see if I can find some of my pictures of this job from some early tech threads of mine and will add them back here. Ok here is the links for fuse box removaL and targa drain fix http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?168050-Fusebox-corrossion-targa-drains-and-a-broken-neck&highlight=fuse+box http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?146736-Another-targa-drain-tech&highlight=fusebox Jeff TT

Thanks that for that and nice to see you yesterday hopefully you did not get too wet! Jeff

Ok as per the title what a super well organised meet, the venue was just right with the location central, and a very professional result so a massive well done and huge thanks to Lexx who done a brilliant job from start to finish and to anyone that helped, we owe lexx a lot for taking his own time to arrange this and the forum is lucky to have him I can say I loved every single moment of the day and spoke with many of you guys and I guess missed some but there was so much going on it was hard to be everywhere, and as a side line the motor museum was as super free event too, an all round 300zx.co.uk success. Jeff TT

Many thanks!! Jeff

Ha, ha yes hopefully no chavs revving their rebuilt engine showing its backfiring out of the exhaust....:whistling: Jeff TT

As title, anyone got a 99 spec rear spoiler fitted? I need the measurement from say the rear window bottom edge ( trim edge) to the front foot mount, cannot find a decent enough picture to be sure and no other zeds in at the moment with one on! Cheers Jeff TT