DJ_Party_Favor

REAR BRAKE CALIPER PREP BEFORE SANDBLASTING Before starting the sandblasting process on the rear brake caliper bodies, I needed to properly mask and protect a few critical areas. In particular, the hydraulic piston bores and the internal brake fluid channels or ports must be shielded from blasting media to avoid damage. https://i.postimg.cc/DzfJwt5z/1-Before-Masking-2.jpg (Above) The pair of calipers prior to masking. My approach was straightforward. I used masking tape to seal off the two fluid channels that allow brake fluid to pass between each half of the caliper. For the hydraulic piston bores, I inserted a dense foam material to fully block off the openings and prevent any abrasive media from contacting the internal aluminum surfaces. https://i.postimg.cc/VNsrk34d/2-Tools-Required.jpg (Above) The tools and materials used to seal and protect the caliper components during preparation. After about an hour of work, all the necessary areas were sealed and protected. The foam inserts worked particularly well for the piston bores, creating a snug barrier. For the fluid ports, I used a simple but effective technique—lightly tapping around the edges with a hammer—to cut perfectly shaped circles out of masking tape for a precise fit. https://i.postimg.cc/hG4ztHMt/3-After-Marking-Up.jpg (Above) Fully masked and ready for sandblasting. That’s as far as I got for the month of July. Progress may have been limited, but it’s a solid step forward. The next stage will be to begin sandblasting the calipers, which I’m aiming to tackle soon.

Small progress this month: I prepped the two dismantled rear brake calipers for the next stage in the restoration process, masking and protecting key areas before I will then be sandblasting them back to bare metal in the next month. YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/adamzx_z32

PARTS ACQUIRED FOR THE MONTH OF JUNE 2025 Another month, another new parts acquisition for the project—and this one was a surprisingly great find from Yahoo Auctions in Japan. Not only was it inexpensive, but it also arrived in excellent, almost like-new condition. That’s a huge improvement compared to a similar unit I purchased two months ago, which was heavily covered in rust. Because of its condition, this part won’t require the extensive restoration work that the previous one would have needed. That saves a significant amount of time and allows me to fast-track its installation of this new part into the Z sooner rather than later. It has been a 6 week wait for this package to arrive to me from Japan. I choose to use sea freight for this purchase to save on shipping costs and so it took a while for the package to arrive to me in Australia. Another Later Model Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) Pump/Module As you all know 2 months ago, I decided to buy and received my first series 2 or later model ABS pump/module from Japan which was relatively cheap but had the massive con of also being in a very rusty poor condition and would require an extensive restoration process on the entire assembly before I could install the unit into the car. https://i.postimg.cc/0NYmk3Z8/First_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_Purchased_In_April_2025.jpg (Above) Although I was excited to purchase this later-model ABS pump, it turned out to be in very poor condition. It will require a significant amount of work—disassembly, rust removal, and reassembly—before it can be made fully functional and installed in the boot of the Z. But while randomly searching yahoo auctions this month though, I managed to find a listing for a much better conditioned later model ABS pump that believe it or not was cheaper to buy then the first abs pump and only had a small amount of surface rust present on the unit. https://i.postimg.cc/h46909Xb/Yahoo-Auctions-ABS-Pump-Listing.png (Above) A Deal to hard to pass at when I first saw it. Because of its rust-free condition and lower price, I decided to purchase the new unit and have it shipped over. I’ll now be changing plans to use this ABS pump instead of the one I bought two months ago. Not all is lost, though—the original pump came with a complete set of factory brake hardlines, which I’ll transfer over to the new unit. This will allow me to complete the installation just as it would have been from the factory. https://i.postimg.cc/NFyxbD86/2_New_later_Model_ABS_Pump_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/7hCNX91M/2_New_later_Model_ABS_Pump_2.jpg Upon first inspection of the new ABS pump the condition of the components was very good, there was minimal surface rust present on the unit which I may or may not try to remove before installing the pump into the boot of my Z. When comparing the new ABS pump with the first one the difference in condition is very noticeable. The first pump I plan to keep as a spare and if necessary do a full restoration on at some point just in case I ever need to change the pump out due to a fault or failure. https://i.postimg.cc/zvLkp7wk/3_Comparison_of_the_first_ABS_pump_vs_new_ABS_pump_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/6q7hzcVH/3_Comparison_of_the_first_ABS_pump_vs_new_ABS_pump_2.jpg The difference in condition is night and day and in my mind a decent purchase sourcing this new ABS pump. Even with the new ABS pump in hand, I will have to hold off installing it into the Z until I have completed my research into if retrofitting the later model ABS pump is even possible into an early model 300ZX which at this point in time I don't have any concrete information proving my theory on it being possible is correct. As far as I can tell looking through the AUS, US and UKDM Z32 forums, no one has ever tried to do this kind of conversion before ever and there are no personal hands on experiences i can read about that can verify if it is or isn't possible, so I will just have to confirm the possibility myself on my own Z at some point in the future.

MOUNTING BRACKET (REAR BRAKE CALIPER) – SANDBLASTING PROCESS With all of the brake caliper hydraulic pistons now restored to a usable condition, I turned my attention to the caliper bodies themselves. The next step in the restoration process is to strip the factory coating and repaint the calipers in a high-temperature gloss black finish. From my research, achieving a durable and high-quality paint finish starts with proper surface preparation. Ideally, paint should be applied directly to bare metal wherever possible. When done correctly, the process involves applying an etch primer to the bare surface, followed by the colour coat, and finally a clear coat for added durability and protection. Because I plan to use an etch primer—which is specifically designed for bare metal as I've mentioned before—I need to remove as much of the original factory coating from the OEM calipers as much as possible. Up to this point, I’ve had good success using traditional grinding and metal resurfacing techniques to strip coatings from various parts. My initial plan was to use the same method on all four brake calipers. During testing, the bench grinder removed the factory coating effectively, but I noticed it was also altering the surface of the aluminium. I suspect this is due to heat buildup caused by friction from the wire wheel. (Above) The stripped metal surface appears to show heavy pitting, likely caused by heat buildup during grinding. Another issue was accessibility—getting the grinder into tight areas proved difficult. Progress was slow, with even a small section taking around 30 minutes to complete. At this stage, I decided the bench grinder was no longer the best tool for the job. While it could achieve the desired result, it required too much time and effort. It also produced a lot of debris, unpleasant odours, and airborne particles that ended up on my clothes and skin. For years, I’ve been researching alternative methods for stripping automotive parts more efficiently, and this seemed like the perfect opportunity to upgrade my setup. So I purchased a Unimac 90L benchtop sandblasting cabinet—the most affordable and compact option available to me. I’ve wanted one of these for quite some time, and after watching countless reviews and demonstration videos online, it became clear how effective sandblasting is for quickly stripping metal parts. The main reasons I held off previously were the cost and limited storage space. However, after reorganising my workspace and weighing the long-term benefits, I decided it was a worthwhile investment. This cabinet should significantly improve my workflow—not just for this project, but for future restorations as well. The ability to strip parts down to bare metal in minutes rather than hours is a huge advantage. https://i.postimg.cc/7hXKQhjw/1_New_Sandblaster_setup.jpg (Above) The cabinet is connected to a 2.0HP high-flow 60L air compressor and a 1000W dust extractor. I also installed a water trap and air regulator to control pressure and reduce moisture in the air lines. https://i.postimg.cc/qqQ1ZqWM/1_Sandblaster_Work_Area.jpg (Above) I also chose a coarse 30/60 grit garnet blasting media, which is affordable and easy to source locally. I set the air regulator to the recommended 90 PSI (0.65 MPa). https://i.postimg.cc/KjQ0sjCc/1_Setting_Max_air_pressure_on_regulator.jpg (Above) Moisture control is critical in sandblasting, as water in the air lines can clog the system. The regulator with a built-in water trap helps minimise this risk. Before moving on to the calipers, I decided to test the setup on a smaller component—a pair of rear caliper mounting brackets. Here’s the condition of the brackets before blasting: https://i.postimg.cc/mkVm6kKF/2_Brackets_Before_Blasting.jpg (Above) While most of the factory paint coating had been removed, tight areas still retained some of the old paint—exactly where sandblasting should excel. With everything set, I placed the brackets in the cabinet and began blasting. The results were exactly what I hoped for—fast and effortless. The remaining paint was removed in seconds, and both brackets were fully stripped within minutes. https://i.postimg.cc/ZnjwDnXC/2_Bracket_After_Blasting_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/wMFwbMnt/2_Bracket_After_Blasting_2.jpg (Above) Both brackets are now completely stripped back to bare metal, with all of the factory coating removed. This first test confirmed that investing in a sandblasting cabinet was the right decision. The time savings and improved results are immediately noticeable, and I’m looking forward to using this setup to restore all four brake calipers next.

Another small update for this month’s blog, but progress was made nonetheless. I picked up a new piece of equipment that will help me strip paint and rust from old car metal parts much more efficiently—and much faster. In addition, I acquired another component for the braking system. This one is in significantly better condition than the part I purchased a couple of months ago, so it’s a solid upgrade. YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32

HYDRAULIC BRAKE PISTON RESTORATION PROCESS The next phase of the brake caliper restoration process involves inspecting and restoring the hydraulic brake pistons that were removed from both the front and rear brake calipers. The goal here is to put the pistons through one final cleaning process and then assess their restored condition to determine whether they can be reused or be replaced with brand new hydraulic pistons. https://i.postimg.cc/Mph2qvG8/1_All_Brake_Hydraulic_Pistons_2_(Before_Polishing).jpg (Above) The current condition of all the hydraulic pistons after undergoing a deep cleaning and de-rusting cycle in the ultrasonic cleaning machine. Before beginning the restoration work, I took a closer look at several areas of the pistons that still required additional cleaning. https://i.postimg.cc/P5BsTPqs/2_close_Up_Of_existing_rust_inside_pistons.jpg (Above) Rust deposits still remaining inside the inner barrel of the hydraulic pistons. (Below) Some staining or contamination present on the outer surface of the pistons. https://i.postimg.cc/9Qv5Crfh/2_Staining_or_marking_on_outer_surfaces_of_both_front_and_rear_pistons.jpg Grinding Process To tackle the remaining rust deposits first, I attached a small brass wire brush bit to my Dremel and carefully began grinding away the corrosion. This method proved to be very effective at removing the rust while leaving the underlying metal clean and shiny. https://i.postimg.cc/NjWqB50F/3_After_wire_wheeling_inner_barrels_of_all_brake_pistons_1.jpg (Above) Nearly all of the rust deposits have now been removed from the inner barrel surfaces, revealing clean metal underneath. https://i.postimg.cc/Mph2qvG7/3_After_wire_wheeling_inner_barrels_of_Front_brake_pistons_1.jpg (Above) The front brake caliper pistons came out looking great, with all rust removed. Only a couple of pistons still show minor pitting at the bottom of the inner barrel. (Below) The rear caliper pistons actually turned out even better than the fronts after the grinding process. https://i.postimg.cc/fbm4LD3V/3_After_wire_wheeling_inner_barrels_of_Rear_brake_pistons_1.jpg I’m very happy with how well the wire brushing process worked. The pistons have cleaned up so nicely that I’m now unsure whether I should paint the inner barrels or simply leave them as they are. What do you guys think — should I paint them or leave them bare? Polishing Process Next, I moved on to removing the staining or contamination that remained on the outer surfaces of the pistons. To do this, I set up my electric drill in a bench vice and attached a cone-shaped polishing wheel. This created a simple DIY polishing rig that made the process much easier to control. https://i.postimg.cc/wBLKvgtt/4_Polishing_Setup.jpg (Above) With this setup I can safely hold the piston while polishing, without having to manage both the drill and the part at the same time. This gives me much better control and allows me to polish the piston surfaces more effectively. Here’s the starting condition before polishing the first piston. https://i.postimg.cc/bvkXJpGg/4_Test_of_polishing_process_on_outer_surface_of_Brake_Piston_(Before).jpg (Above) It’s a little difficult to see in the photo, but there is a thin ring of staining along the upper section of the piston’s outer barrel. The goal is to remove as much of this contamination as possible using the polishing process. After about five minutes of polishing, the results were impressive. All of the staining on the outer barrel of the first piston was completely removed. https://i.postimg.cc/SKC0skXM/4_Test_of_polishing_process_on_outer_surface_of_Brake_Piston_(After_1).jpg https://i.postimg.cc/zfKmB8Lw/4_Test_of_polishing_process_on_outer_surface_of_Brake_Piston_(After_2).jpg (Above) As you can see, the contamination that was present on the piston surface has now been completely removed. All that remained was to repeat the process on the rest of the pistons. Just like the first one, the results were excellent. The polishing process removed all visible contamination from the outer surfaces, making the pistons look almost brand new again. https://i.postimg.cc/q7yfR4t1/5_All_Pistons_Polished.jpg (Above) The polishing process was quick, simple, and extremely effective. I’m very happy with the results so far. After successfully removing the rust deposits from the inner barrels of all the pistons and eliminating the contamination on the outer barrel surfaces, I am satisfied that these restored brake caliper hydraulic pistons are suitable for reuse. They can now be reinstalled into the front and rear brake calipers during the final stages of the restoration process.

This month I wasn’t able to dedicate as much time to the project as I had hoped, but I still managed to make some progress. The focus was on cleaning up and polishing the hydraulic pistons in both the front and rear brake calipers. These components still had varying amounts of residue and rust buildup left over from the earlier cleaning and de-rusting process, so this stage involved carefully removing the remaining contamination and improving their overall finish. YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32

PARTS ACQUIRED DURING THE MONTH OF APRIL This month I took delivery of two new brake-related parts from Japan. The first was a set of later-model iron Twin Turbo front brake calipers, which I’ve already covered in detail above. The second item, however, is the one I’m most excited about. It has the potential to significantly reduce future servicing time—particularly when bleeding the braking system—provided I can successfully retrofit it to my car. Based on the research I’ve pieced together so far, it should be possible in theory. (Above) The package from Japan containing both brake components. As always, Jesse Streeter and his team did an excellent job ensuring everything arrived safely and undamaged. https://i.postimg.cc/fbNJmRLC/2_Parts_Inside_Box_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/YSHhYC9x/2_Parts_Inside_Box_2.jpg (Above) The contents of the package: a set of later-model iron TT brake calipers and a 1994+ ABS pump/actuator assembly. If you haven’t already spotted it in the photos, the “mystery” item is a later-model 1994+ ABS pump/actuator. I purchased it as a complete unit, including all factory brake hardlines connecting the pump to the hydraulic system. Having the original hardlines intact is a huge advantage—it means I should be able to unbolt my original ABS pump and swap this unit in without needing to fabricate or modify any brake lines. https://i.postimg.cc/DzT8LwZP/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/rpkKxwmn/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_2.jpg (Above) The later-model ABS pump complete with 2+2 base plate and all original hardlines. These lines feed into the hydraulic distribution box, which connects the pump to the rest of the braking system. The factory part number stamped on the identification plate is 47600-50P00, along with a serial number and the manufacturer’s name, Nippon ABS, LTD. https://i.postimg.cc/wBQ3VYyb/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_4.jpg (Above) According to Nissan FAST, part number 47600-50P00 was fitted to both NA and TT Z32 models from September 1993 through to October 1998. As exciting as this purchase is, there’s one obvious issue: surface rust. The unit appears to have been exposed to the elements for some time, and corrosion has formed on several external components. That said, I’ve dealt with similar surface rust before and had good success restoring parts to a respectable condition. The main challenge will be figuring out how best to submerge the assembly in Evapo-Rust (or treat it in stages) to remove the corrosion thoroughly. After that, I’ll need to apply a suitable protective coating to prevent future rust from returning. https://i.postimg.cc/bv9dTfDV/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_5.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/HL9j21cQ/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_3.jpg (Above) While the rust looks significant at first glance, it appears to be surface-level only. https://i.postimg.cc/vmtDzwxM/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_7.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/BvBtgfLy/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_6.jpg (Above) A close-up of the five brake hardlines that connect the pump to the car’s main hydraulic distribution box (located beneath the rear center section of the boot). After careful inspection, I found no kinks or damage to any of the lines, which is reassuring. Next, I inspected the electrical side of the unit, including the main wiring harness and the internal relay box mounted on the rear of the pump. Fortunately, there were no signs of corrosion in any of the connectors, and the internal relay box looks to be in near-new condition. https://i.postimg.cc/85kcXXLF/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_8.jpg (Above) Research suggests that the three main electrical connectors are identical in location and orientation to those on early-model ABS pumps. https://i.postimg.cc/G23tggvv/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_9.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/26jy99nh/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_10.jpg (Above) Inspecting the internal relay box located at the rear of the pump. I know some people may question the decision to modify the braking system in this way. Before the ongoing brake-bleeding issues began, I likely wouldn’t have considered it either. However, with no clear resolution to the bleeding problem so far, replacing the ABS pump could potentially eliminate a hidden internal fault. And if I’m going to replace it anyway, it makes sense to consider upgrading to the later-model unit. The biggest unknowns remain: • Can the later-model ABS pump be successfully retrofitted into an early Z32? • If installed, will it function correctly? As far as I can tell, this hasn’t been attempted before—so I may be the first to try this modification on a 300ZX Z32. My approach is simple: if it works, fantastic. If it doesn’t, I can revert to the original pump and share the results with the community so others know whether this path is viable. At this point, based on the information I’ve gathered, the potential benefits outweigh the risks. Worst-case scenario, I return to stock. Best-case scenario, I resolve the brake bleeding saga and gain a worthwhile upgrade in the process.

POLISHING ONE OF MY OEM ALLOY WHEELS Taking a short break from all of the recent brake system work, I decided to turn my attention to something a little more cosmetic — my set of bare aluminum OEM wheels. After sitting for the past four years, they were starting to look tired and dull, and it was clear they were long overdue for a proper polish to bring them back to life. Upon closer inspection, I noticed a layer of oxidation had formed on the bare aluminum since the last time I polished this particular wheel. I was hopeful that a thorough polishing would remove it, but there was only one way to find out. [i](Above) Back in 2007, I purchased a full set of OEM JDM factory wheels from another Z owner who had already stripped and polished the bare aluminum before selling them to me. Around that time, I learned that the USDM models were offered with factory chrome OEM wheels — a look I instantly fell in love with. Unfortunately, here in Australia, none of the OEM wheels available came in that factory chrome finish. So when a polished set came up for sale, I didn’t hesitate — it was the closest I could get to that chrome look, and I jumped on the opportunity.[/i] (Below) A close-up of the oxidation that had formed on the surface of the bare aluminum over time. https://i.postimg.cc/mkxrB7PN/1_Before_Polishing_2.jpg After about an hour of polishing using an electric drill, a buffing cone, and some purple metal polish, the results were immediately noticeable. The dull, hazy finish was gone, replaced by a reflective, mirror-like shine that closely resembles chrome. I couldn’t have been happier with how the wheel turned out. Ultimately, I’d love to have all of my OEM alloy wheels finished in a true mirror-like chrome one day. For now, though, the polished aluminum gives me a close enough look to achieve the style I’m going for — and I’m more than happy with it. It was also a refreshing change of pace from the brake system work I’ve been focused on for the past few months — sometimes it’s nice to see quick, visual progress. https://i.postimg.cc/wMKBgD15/2_After_Polishing.jpg (Above) Although the bare aluminum now has a nice reflective, mirror-like shine, the oxidation hasn’t been completely removed. Even after several passes with the polish, I wasn’t able to eliminate any more of the remaining surface oxidation. Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough time to polish the remaining three OEM wheels, but I’m planning to tackle those soon — ideally before reinstalling the refurbished brake calipers on the car. There’s something incredibly satisfying about bringing old aluminum back to life, and this first wheel is a great reminder of why I’ve always loved the look of polished OEM wheels on this Z.

DISASSEMBLY PROCESS OF MY NEW SPARE SET OF LATER MODEL TWIN TURBO OEM IRON BRAKE CALIPERS With the teardown of my used rear OEM brake calipers now complete, I’m starting this month’s update with the newly acquired set of later-model twin turbo iron front brake calipers that arrived earlier this month for the rebuild project. The goal for this set is simple: once restored, they will replace the later-model TT front calipers currently on the car — the same ones I installed back in 2011. These “new” used calipers will go through the exact same teardown and restoration process as the rears featured in last month’s update. Finding the Twin Turbo Front Brake Calipers on Yahoo Auctions I came across these calipers listed on Yahoo Auctions, advertised as having been used on a Skyline R32. The seller wasn’t completely certain of their origin, but from the photos I immediately recognized them as the later-model 300ZX Twin Turbo front calipers (Series 4–6, 1995–2000). https://i.postimg.cc/L8VH8MJC/1_TT_brake_calipers_yahoo_auctions_2.jpg Cosmetically, they were in average-to-poor condition, with significant surface rust and grime. However, the important thing was that they were complete. The key difference between these later-model calipers and the earlier versions is the material. The later units are made from iron rather than aluminum. While heavier, the iron construction offers improved resistance to heat-induced warping under hard braking — particularly beneficial during track use. This is why Nissan upgraded to iron calipers in the later production models. https://i.postimg.cc/YCxpCwvQ/1_final_model_brochure_photos_of_brakes_(1999_2000).jpg Once they arrived here in Australia, I was eager to begin the restoration process. Despite their condition, I was confident they could be rebuilt to a standard better than new. https://i.postimg.cc/Dzjn1ddv/1_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_Before_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/W4WT066z/1_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_Before_2.jpg Step 1: Hydraulic Piston Removal As soon as the calipers arrived, I began by removing all hydraulic pistons using compressed air and old brake pads as spacers to prevent damage during extraction. https://i.postimg.cc/gjRpF99h/2_Piston_Removal_Process_3.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/gc6m6hwY/2_Piston_Removed_1.jpg The process went smoothly, and I was able to remove all eight pistons without major issues. Step 2: Separating the Caliper Halves Next, I applied penetrating lubricant to the four main fasteners on each caliper to help loosen the rusted bolts. After allowing it to soak briefly, I carefully removed all eight fasteners. Fortunately, none of them snapped — always a small victory when working with older hardware. https://i.postimg.cc/CLG0cVHX/3_Caliper_Bolts_Removal_Process_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/1R61zZTn/3_Caliper_Bolts_Removal_Process_6.jpg With the bolts removed, I separated the caliper halves and extracted the internal O-ring seals from each piston bore. https://i.postimg.cc/t4BLcR1z/4_O_ring_Removal.jpg At this stage, the calipers were fully dismantled. Years of grime, corrosion, and brake dust buildup were clearly visible. There’s no denying — they need serious attention — but this is exactly why I wanted to rebuild them properly. https://i.postimg.cc/SxSBVYKG/5_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_After_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/q7YWkmx2/5_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_After_2.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/xCzhqK6v/5_Front_TT_Iron_Brake_Calipers_After_3.jpg Step 3: Cleaning Process Before moving any further, every component went into the ultrasonic cleaner. Each part was placed in containers and run through a full cleaning cycle. The results were impressive. Years of accumulated dirt and grease were removed, revealing clean metal surfaces underneath. It’s always satisfying seeing neglected parts come back to life. https://i.postimg.cc/L6Rw6gLT/6_Cleaning_Process_1.jpg During inspection, I discovered a small hole in one of the original piston dust boots. This would have allowed moisture and debris into the bore — potentially leading to corrosion or piston seizure. Finding that damage alone justified the decision to completely dismantle these calipers. https://i.postimg.cc/JzzFjwT5/6_Cleaning_Process_2.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/5yWGz6Gz/6_Before_Derusting_Process.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/DwpMgCHK/6_hole_in_piston_dust_boot.jpg Step 4: De-Rusting Process With the grime removed, it was time to address the rust. All affected metal components were submerged in my go-to rust removal solution and run through a heated 20-minute ultrasonic cycle. https://i.postimg.cc/NjCz4NSf/7_After_Derusting_Process_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/R03bb7xN/7_After_Derusting_Process_2.jpg The results were outstanding. The surface rust was effectively eliminated, and the transformation was dramatic. It’s incredible how much renewal proper rust treatment can provide. https://i.postimg.cc/yNwrqD7c/7_After_Derusting_Process_3.jpg Most of the corrosion on the hydraulic pistons was also removed. I’m still undecided whether to coat the internal surfaces of the pistons in a flat black finish or leave them natural — I’ll make that call during reassembly. Conclusion That concludes the teardown of this later-model twin turbo iron front caliper set. I’m extremely pleased with how smoothly the process went, and I’ve gained an even deeper understanding of the internal workings of these calipers. Next up will be surface preparation of the caliper bodies. The old factory coating will need to be completely stripped back to bare metal before applying a fresh finish. That means it’s time to bring out the bench grinder and start prepping for paint. Stay tuned for the next stage of the restoration.

Another productive month in the garage, with another successful brake caliper teardown completed—this time tackling a set of later-model iron Twin Turbo front calipers. Alongside that, I began polishing one of my bare aluminum OEM wheels, aiming for a full mirror finish. To top it all off, I also received a package from Japan containing the latest parts for the rebuild project, adding even more momentum to the build. YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32

COMPLETION OF THE DISASSEMBLY PROCESS - SPARE SET OF OEM REAR BRAKE CALIPERS Continuing on from where I left off in last month’s blog updates, this month’s progress focuses on completing the cleaning and de-rusting stages for my spare set of OEM rear brake calipers. Once this stage was finished, the calipers were finally ready to move on to the next phase of the restoration process—stripping the original factory protective coating from the outer surfaces and returning everything back to bare metal. This will ultimately provide the best possible foundation for a durable, high-temperature, high-gloss paint finish later on. Step 4: De-Rusting Process of Both Rear Brake Calipers The deep-cleaning cycles that both rear brake calipers went through in last month’s update successfully removed the majority of the built-up dirt and grime that had accumulated across all components, including the caliper bodies themselves. However, there was still a noticeable amount of surface rust present on several parts that needed to be addressed before any new coating could be applied. To tackle this, I submerged all of the affected brake caliper components into a container filled with EvapoRust solution, placed the container into my ultrasonic cleaning machine, and ran a 20-minute cycle at 60°C. Once the cycle was complete, the container was removed from the ultrasonic cleaner and all components were taken out of the EvapoRust solution. Each piece was then thoroughly dried by hand, followed by a quick powered blow-dry using my BigBoi handheld electric blower to ensure no excess residue remained on any of the calipers or hardware. The body assemblies of each half of both rear brake calipers came out looking significantly better than before. Most of the ugly orange caliper paint was now completely gone, and overall the calipers are now starting to resemble their original factory condition—albeit with a slightly faded appearance. https://i.postimg.cc/65r0c3gw/Separated_Rear_Brake_Calipers_Current_Condition_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/2SCxKYNR/Separated_Rear_Brake_Calipers_Current_Condition_2.jpg Next up were the hydraulic pistons, which were heavily rusted on the internal surfaces of all four units. Once again, the EvapoRust solution worked wonders and brought these parts back to life. I’ll still be going over each piston with a polishing wheel to remove the remaining scuff marks present on the external surfaces. https://i.postimg.cc/Prsy1Z6Y/Caliper_Pistons_Current_Condition_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/m2YwjDqw/Caliper_Pistons_Current_Condition_2.jpg A quick wire-wheel test was also carried out on the internal section of one of the hydraulic pistons to remove any remaining buildup. The result was even better than expected and confirms that a light polish will have these looking near new again. Polished: (LH) Vs Not Polished (RH) https://i.postimg.cc/rFXj5WhS/Caliper_Piston_Cleaning_Up_Comparison.jpg Nearly all of the brake caliper hardware and fasteners came out of the de-rusting cycle completely free of surface rust and corrosion. However, the factory zinc coating was also stripped during the process, so I’ll be looking to replace as many of these fasteners as possible as part of the restoration. More on that later. https://i.postimg.cc/8PQ4LWyL/Caliper_Fasteners_Set_Current_Condition.jpg The two rear mounting brackets for each rear brake caliper also saw the complete removal of all surface rust that had formed on the exposed metal surfaces, as well as beneath the factory single-stage paint coating. A full strip-down and repaint will definitely be required before these brackets can be reattached to the restored brake calipers. https://i.postimg.cc/jdHXc5m0/Rear_Caliper_Brackets_Current_Condition_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/Yq63R9ZB/Rear_Caliper_Brackets_Current_Condition_2.jpg Last but not least was the results of the cleaning process for all of the rubber seals and O-rings. Surprisingly, these came out of the cleaning cycle looking almost like brand-new parts. That being said, I’ll still be replacing everything with a complete set of brand-new seals and O-rings during reassembly phase to ensure long-term reliability. https://i.postimg.cc/FsyZpRqC/Old_Caliper_Orings_Seals_Set.jpg Unfortunately, that concludes the extent of the work I was able to complete on this project for the month. While I’m extremely happy with the results of the cleaning and de-rusting processes, there’s still plenty of work ahead before these rear brake calipers are fully restored and ready to go back on the car.

After last month’s ground-breaking milestone, tearing down my first set of OEM front and rear brake calipers, I’ve now moved onto the next phase of the project. This month’s update focuses on completing the remaining strip-down process of the newly dismantled OEM rear calipers, tackling several stubborn components that needed every trace of surface rust removed before any paint or protective coating could be applied. YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32

DISASSEMBLY PROCESS OF MY SPARE SET OF OEM REAR BRAKE CALIPERS After successfully tearing down my original pair of 1989 non-turbo front OEM brake calipers, I decided the best way to build on that experience was to dismantle a spare set of OEM aluminum rear brake calipers from a 300ZX. In theory, the rear calipers should require much the same disassembly process as the fronts, with the main difference being that each rear caliper only contains two hydraulic pistons rather than four. One other notable difference, however, is the overall condition of these rear calipers. Unlike the fronts, these are in fairly poor shape, with heavy grime buildup and a significant amount of rusted hardware that I expected would make the teardown more challenging. Despite this, I was confident I could fully disassemble them and further expand my mechanical knowledge in the process. https://i.postimg.cc/kMSKz9Hm/1_Before_Dismantling_(Rear_Brake_Calipers)_Rear.jpg Step 1: Tearing Down the Left-Hand Rear Brake Caliper As with the front calipers, the first step was to remove the hydraulic pistons. I planned to use compressed air to force the pistons out of their bores, just as I had done previously. This is where I hit my first major roadblock. Both rear OEM brake hose fittings were completely seized in the back of the caliper. Despite using a correctly sized 10 mm flare nut wrench, neither fitting would budge. Things quickly got worse when the hex portion of the fitting began to deform under the wrench due to rust and soft metal. Not wanting to risk further damage, I stopped and reconsidered my approach. I remembered seeing my Dad successfully free stubborn bolts using penetrating lubricant, so I applied a generous amount of WD-40 to the fittings and surrounding threads and allowed it time to soak in. https://i.postimg.cc/L4PLwRbG/2_First_Roadblock_Frozen_Brake_Hardline_Hose_Caliper_End_(Close_Up).jpg https://i.postimg.cc/vHdfdkRm/2_Second_Roadblock_Frozen_Brake_Hardline_Hose_End_(Close_Up).jpg Thankfully, this approach worked. Both brake hose fittings eventually broke free, allowing me to continue with the teardown. https://i.postimg.cc/BZFHkszj/2_Removed_Brake_Hardline_Hose.jpg Unfortunately, the fittings sustained noticeable damage during removal. While I originally hoped to refurbish the hardlines as part of a future restoration, replacing them outright will be far easier and safer. https://i.postimg.cc/8kvM9DYP/2_Rear_Brake_Hardline_Hose_Damaged_After_Removal_(Wide).jpg https://i.postimg.cc/SQ9C3qvw/2_Rear_Brake_Hardline_Hose_Damaged_After_Removal_(Close_Up).jpg With the hoses removed, I used compressed air to push both pistons outward as far as possible while the used brake pads were still installed. At this point, another issue surfaced: two brake pad slide pins were seized in the caliper body. After applying WD-40, I was able to remove one pin, but the second pin refused to move. Even using a hammer to drive it out proved ineffective. After exhausting all options I could think of, I decided to leave it for now and seek advice from my Dad before risking damage to the aluminum caliper body. Fortunately, the stuck slide pin did not prevent me from continuing. I removed the four caliper mounting bolts and separated the two caliper halves without issue. https://i.postimg.cc/DyKLKHVB/3_Dismantling_Process_Separating_LH_Rear_Brake_Calipers_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/Yqfg2Rkz/3_Separated_Rear_Brake_Caliper_LH_Current_Condition_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/8PBWk4Dy/3_Separated_Rear_Brake_Caliper_LH_Current_Condition_2.jpg I then removed the old brake pads. https://i.postimg.cc/kXdKdzrK/3_Dismantling_Process_Finally_Separated_LH_Brake_Caliper.jpg The final step for this caliper was removing the pistons completely, along with the dust boots and internal rubber O-ring seals seated inside each piston bore. Once everything was laid out on the bench, the amount of grime and contamination was obvious. A thorough cleaning would be required before any refurbishment could begin. https://i.postimg.cc/Qd87F7dD/4_Dismantling_Process_(LH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Component_Layout.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/L6Bf4D2S/4_Close_Up_of_LH_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Seals_Pistons.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/qMXnBw0W/4_Close_Up_(LH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Front_Half_Section.jpg Step 2: Tearing Down the Right-Hand Rear Brake Caliper After dealing with the challenges on the left-hand caliper, I was better prepared for the right-hand side. As expected, both brake pad slide pins on this caliper were seized solid. While frustrating, I was still able to work around the issue and complete the teardown. https://i.postimg.cc/CxcqkKRd/5_Dismantling_Process_(RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Component_Layout.jpg Just like the left-hand caliper, all components were heavily soiled and coated in grime. https://i.postimg.cc/x1fmXmTB/4_Close_Up_of_RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Seals_Pistons.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/fRzdVdRX/5_Close_Up_(RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Rear_Half_Section.jpg The front half of the caliper clearly shows the two rusted slide pins still stuck in place. https://i.postimg.cc/Mp6BnBpn/5_Close_Up_(RH_Rear_Brake_Caliper)_Front_Half_Section.jpg Step 3: Cleaning Process for Both Rear Brake Calipers With both calipers fully disassembled, it was time to assess what could be reused or refurbished. All metal components were placed into my ultrasonic cleaner and soaked in an all-purpose cleaning solution for 20 minutes at 60 °C. The results were far better than expected. Most of the built-up grime and residue was completely removed. After thoroughly blow-drying each component to eliminate moisture, I sorted the parts into groups and stored them safely for the next phase. https://i.postimg.cc/XYsCdvrB/6_Set_of_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Components_After_Cleaning_Drying_1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/8zZ6MC7r/6_Set_of_Rear_Brake_Caliper_Components_After_Cleaning_Drying_2.jpg The real work begins next. Both caliper bodies will be stripped back to bare aluminum before being repainted in a durable, high-gloss finish. More updates to follow.

DISASSEMBLY PROCESS OF MY ORIGINAL NON-TURBO FRONT BRAKE CALIPERS With the success and experience gained from disassembling my first braking component in last month’s blog update, I wanted to expand on that learning process and take a deeper look into how my front brake calipers work — inside and out. This time, I’ll be disassembling my original set of non-turbo aluminum front brake calipers that I removed from my car last month. My dad and I suspected that one or more of these NA (naturally aspirated) calipers might be faulty, potentially causing my car’s persistent spongy brake pedal feel. By completely tearing down both front NA calipers, I’ll be able to thoroughly inspect the internal components for any damage or wear. If a fault is found, that could explain the soft pedal issue. If not, I can eliminate the calipers from the list of possible causes. https://i.postimg.cc/W1tshKTV/1-Front-NA-Brake-Calipers-Before-Dismantling-Process-2.jpg Before diving in, I spent a lot of time researching how brake calipers work and the general disassembly process. Most guides and videos show that the typical teardown involves: 1. Removing all of the hydraulic pistons from the caliper body. 2. Unbolting the fasteners that hold the two caliper halves together. 3. Cleaning all components thoroughly before rebuilding or refinishing. Important Note – Factory Service Manual (FSM) Warning The Nissan 300ZX factory service manual (FSM) clearly states that the front and rear brake calipers “should not be separated.” This is likely due to safety reasons: the manual does not list a torque specification for the four bolts that hold the caliper halves together. At the factory, these bolts are likely torqued using a specialized machine to a specific range to ensure they don’t loosen over time — a critical safety measure that prevents caliper separation while driving. However, for the purposes of learning and future restoration projects, I’ll be disassembling them anyway. Breaking them down completely will allow for a thorough cleaning, inspection, and high-quality repainting — ensuring not only a great finish but also long-term corrosion protection. https://i.postimg.cc/SsLhBb7v/Brake-Caliper-Disassembly-Warning-FSM.png To safely reassemble the calipers later, I’ve researched several torque value references for the caliper body bolts. I’ll use those settings along with medium-strength (blue) Loctite on the bolt threads to prevent them from loosening over time. Step 1: Extracting All Brake Pistons The first step is removing the hydraulic pistons from each caliper. The 300ZX front calipers use a quad-piston design — two pistons in the outer half and two in the inner half. After removing the pistons, I’ll separate the caliper halves, remove the internal seals and bleeder valves, and complete the teardown. Most YouTube guides recommend using compressed air to push the pistons out. I’ll use the same method, with a soft obstruction (in my case, stacked used brake pads) placed between the pistons to prevent them from shooting out violently and to control the process safely. I mounted the caliper in a vice on its side for easier access, then inserted several used brake pads where they normally sit. These pads serve as a cushion and limit how far the pistons can extend. For the air supply, I used an old brake hardline which has a partially cut rubber OEM brake hose still crimped to it as the perfect adaptor tool for attaching my blow gun nozzle and feeding compressed air into the caliper’s brake hose port. [img]https://i.postimg.cc/nh5p7khs/2-Dismantling-Process-RH-Front-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Removal-1.jpg As I slowly applied air pressure, the first piston began to move outward until it contacted the brake pad stack. The remaining pistons followed, each pushing out evenly. [IMG]https://i.postimg.cc/fRFDXKR0/2-Dismantling-Process-RH-Front-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Removal-2.jpg [img]https://i.postimg.cc/0yr9b3Pb/2-Dismantling-Process-LH-Front-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Removal-1.jpg [img]https://i.postimg.cc/Z5g43c5w/3-Dismantling-Process-RH-Front-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Removal-3.jpg After removing one brake pad from the stack to increase the gap, I repeated the process several times. Gradually, the pistons extended further each time until they could be almost ready to come out safely pulled out by hand. [img]https://i.postimg.cc/wjPgJVjc/3-Dismantling-Process-Both-Front-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Removal-Progress.jpg At this point, I decided to just go ahead and split the caliper halves for easier access. I removed all the mounting bolts and bleeder valves, then separated the halves. https://i.postimg.cc/YSWkxWvT/4-Front-Brake-Calipers-Separated-Hardware.jpg Followed by the removal of all of the caliper brake pistons and rubber boot seals. https://i.postimg.cc/ZqdZLdWD/4-Front-Brake-Calipers-All-Pistons-Removed.jpg Step 2: Removing All Caliper O-Ring Seals With the pistons removed, I inspected the bores for any visible damage. They were dirty with residual brake fluid but showed no scoring or deep marks, which is a great sign that the calipers are likely in good condition. https://i.postimg.cc/d0yv9yh5/4-Dismantling-Process-Internal-Oring-Seal-Close-Up.jpg Next, I carefully removed all O-ring seals from the piston bores, along with the two smaller fluid channel O-rings that seal the passage between the caliper halves. https://i.postimg.cc/tgxyzxs2/4-Dismantling-Process-side-Oring-Seal-Close-Up.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/B650rfcj/5-Front-Brake-Calipers-All-Orings-Seals-Removed.jpg Upon a closer look, both calipers’ internal surfaces appeared smooth and undamaged — a reassuring result that means that these calipers were not the issue with my current brake bleeding problem. https://i.postimg.cc/MGQxYQcW/5-Front-Brake-Caliper-Close-UP-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/MTJw3pRq/5-Front-Brake-Caliper-Close-UP-2.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/QtZDYd5B/5-Front-Brake-Caliper-Close-UP-3.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/xCVQp1HM/5-Front-Brake-Caliper-Close-UP-4.jpg Step 3: Cleaning and Final Inspection Before I could begin the final inspection of both calipers to properly confirm for signs of fault or wear, I first needed to give them a deep clean — inside and out. To do this, I placed all the caliper components into my ultrasonic cleaning machine to remove years of built-up brake dust, grime, and corrosion from every surface. https://i.postimg.cc/4dvgDRbp/7-Cleaning-Parts-In-Ultrasonic-Cleaner.jpg Once the cleaning cycle finished, I removed all the components and carefully dried each one by hand using my blow-drying tool. This ensured that all traces of water and cleaning solution were completely removed, leaving each caliper looking squeaky clean both internally and externally. https://i.postimg.cc/Fz94mCDB/7-Dismantling-Completed-Full-Set-of-Caliper-Components.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/FRb4MXgD/7-Dismantling-Completed-Full-Set-of-Caliper-Components-Close-Up-2.jpg With both calipers now fully cleaned, I moved on to the final inspection stage. My goal here was to check each caliper bore and piston seating area for any signs of scoring, pitting, or other surface damage that could affect brake performance. As I expected, all the bores looked perfectly smooth with no visible marks, scratches, or imperfections. This confirmed that both calipers are still in great condition and not the cause of the spongy brake pedal issue I’ve been chasing. While it’s a relief to rule out the front calipers as the problem, it also means that the root cause of my braking issue lies elsewhere in the system. That’ll be my next area of investigation — but for now, I’m really happy with how these calipers turned out after the teardown and cleaning process.