JeffTT

Did someone mention US sites then as a comparison?? no surely not:whistling: Well the general consensus among the answers is the effect Facebook and other similar social portals has had on the forum and added to age of cars, lower numbers, and lower numbers of "real" enthusiasts, even this thread has itself served as an indicator with the number of views and the number of responses, even given that some views may be more than once by the same viewer and the same goes for the posts/posters it still is only hovering around the 10% mark which frankly must be disheartening for the long term members, the mods and the committee members. Given that the problem ( is it a problem ? ) has no real answer other than that`s how it is, then maybe we need to remind ourselves of the good work done here, I for one do not have the answer (s) and maybe needs some new younger thinking... maybe? Jeff TT

49 wiring ??? is that pin 44 for the Neutral switch you mean? if you use a manual ecu you don`t need it and even with an auto ecu its a base idle timing concern that`s all, leaving pin 44 grounded all of the time is telling the ecu the car is not in gear? saying that maybe you guy has wired the switch in and its that he has left to connect. Jeff

Just done a timing chain on a 3 cylinder Corsa, the room around the engine was refreshing but you do need the cam and crank locking tools to do it correctly and safely. Jeff TT

All good points been raised there, 26 views and 10 odd replies is not too bad a ratio.... I think also there is a set level of forum tech knowledge now that did not exist 5 or 6 years ago with the amount of shared knowledge that has distributed on here its become a victim of its own success in a way, just so we are clear I am including myself in this lesser way of viewing the forum so not directing it anyone just wondered what we can do? Jeff TT

As a daily visitor to this site since it started I more or less know all the trends of posting and chatter, this can change depending on the time of year, holidays, dearer times, quiet times etc. but recently it does seem the topics are less responded to, often threads will get over a hundred views but just two or three replies..... I think what we have is a "new trend" now and basically one I am not too keen on, I guess its been self fueled as many click new posts and then leave as there is only a few, many of the tech threads I have done in the past would get great coverage and responses that in turn would create more banter, with a typical tech thread taking upwards of two hours to take the pictures, change them to suit, size them and write up the thread to then get next to no feedback is one reason I do less now, so I guess I have fallen in with the trend too :sad: is it work life in the 2014 UK become all consuming? this is not a rant just my views, any thoughts? Jeff TT

Glad its getting close to completion for you now, however your updates have highlighted the difficulties that non zed garages can encounter and the how the time scale of such jobs can run away, no offense to your guy but it really is a one day job with a couple of hours finishing the next day, hopefully you not paying on an hourly rate! Good luck Jeff TT

Hi Lou, before getting too worried what you were seeing may not of been coming from the exhausts! its possible oil or water leak under pressure is been blown under the car and out of the back, seen this a few time. The only way to be sure after checking all levels is to get a mate to follow you and see if it actually coming from the exhaust or not, fingers crossed it something not too bad. Jeff TT

Here you go: Jeff TT

You can use either one. Jeff TT

Normal car battery charger will do it as well. Jeff

PCV Valve Function The purpose of the PCV System is to regulate crankcase pressure and ventilate blow-by gases from the crankcase into the intake manifold. The PCV system consists of the positive crankcase ventilation valve, grommet, tube and an air supply hose. Check around all of these fittings for any signs of oil leakage. Everything must be tight. Oil leakage indicates a problem with the system. The PCV valve uses spring pressure to hold the valve in the open position while the engine is off or when there is a drop in manifold vacuum like upon acceleration. This results in maximum crankcase ventilation. When the engine is at idle and cruise high manifold vacuum pulls the valve upward blocking the port to the intake manifold. This is because manifold vacuum pressure is greater than the PCV valve's spring pressure. A stuck closed PCV valve will result in excessive crankcase pressure and leaks past oil seals and gaskets. Some air supply hoses have an air filter or filament to clean the air entering the crankcase. If the PCV valve is stuck closed, blow-by gases will build in the crankcase and oil will travel up the clean air hose and into the air filter. This will result in a contaminated air filter or breather. A stuck open valve or leaking PCV hose will cause a lean air fuel ratio and driveability issues like surging. When the valve is removed from the valve cover vacuum should be present at its opening. When your thumb is placed over the vacuum leak the plunger should "snap back" into the valve. When removed from the engine the PCV valve should rattle when shaken. Please note that if the valve does not rattle when shaken, it is clogged and must be replaced. Failure of this valve is typically due to a lack of vehicle maintenance, especially regular oil changes. This old oil results in sludge and jelled engine parts.

The value you speak about is the injector internal resistance, to check the cable/ loom back to the ecu you will need to remove the ecu and do a one by one check of the cables, there should be no readable resistance, but there should be circuit continuity. The ecu outputs to the injectors is an earth trigger and is done by internal transister switching so again should have no readable resistance. The AFR on the driver side bank in comparison you mention how have you come to this? o2 sensors can give bad readings causing issues but not seen them cause detonation, problems with plugs, compression figures, injector pattern can all cause issues but again not seen detonation as a result, ignition timing needs checking both at idle and constant high revs just to be sure the cas unit is not straying, have seen this before causing both retarded and advanced timing which can cause detonation. Jeff TT

The easiest way to wire in is to the flasher unit power output supply, this is the single source trigger for each side, earth the black cable on the buzzer and connect the red to the flasher relay mentioned above, it is located in above the brake pedal. Jeff TT

Common, common problem with the propshaft, the rubber support for the bearing becomes hardened and no longer allows the prop to "float" into the correct position, for this reason the problem is often worse at cold start and gets slightly better as it warms up with use. Save your self a whole lot of trouble and swap out the unit as below one of my previous posts: The original 300zx one piece prop shaft supplier in the UK Due to continued enquires, we have increased our manufacture numbers of the one piece propshaft, rotational weight saving and smooth operation: So we can supply a newly fabricated single piece propshaft for both the TT and N/A auto or manual for £225 this with your prop in part exchange. The new units are fully balanced and are super smooth in operation, no more centre bearing issues to worry about and at a cost similar if not less expensive than having a new bearing fitted. All of the work is done by our own fabricator so no waiting for delivery from the US and no import duty, and fully warranted. Jeff TT Be wary of imitations

Potentially all of both problems, a loose starter might not be earthing well sometimes, a loose starter will also not always engage on the flywheel causing crunching sound. Jeff

Not really a biggy, the chassis number is stamped into the body on the drivers side bulkhead at the rear of the engine where the loom clips on. Jeff TT

Companies do make mistakes, data held on their system can corrupt and wrong labeling /picking occur, often business inter-deal with drop shipping etc. which can confuse the matter, some years I myself ordered a new monitor from on line computer parts supplier and received a full tower system minus the monitor, when I called them they said it would create too much paper work to return and just keep it, the next day the monitor came...bonus did feel a bit wrong though. Jeff TT

The hubs are the same between TT and NA, only the calipers are different on early non turbo`s, the exact problem your having is the same as when fitting TT discs with n/a calipers unless I am reading the thread wrong your fitting them to another zed which from all accounts must have non turbo calipers fitted. Jeff TT

Better named fuel vapor purge valve, also is a check valve in the event you put your zed on its roof so fuel cannot escape through the vapor system. Jeff TT

Check to see if the starter is tight, a common issue on the manual gearbox is the starter motor fixings strip the threads and sometimes even fall off!!. Jeff

Yes what you basically looking for is the full working temperature it achieves, should be around 80c typically a faulty stat will see anything between 58c and 68c which can cause safety boost, ( lower boost and retarded ignition) sometimes when the problem first starts the working temp will creep up to 72c and full power will return, however when the extra air passes through the radiator at a the higher speed the temp will drop and safety boost will cut in again and the cycle continues.. Jeff TT

Before you pull the plenum again check the injector connections again these could be the missfire issue. Jeff TT

That was a good deal, and yes it is a spurious manufactured one to oem dimensions. The bonus is they are all metal so no fragile plastic hose outlet issue's. These are better than fitting an old original one to be fair but new cost can often be close to an alloy one so looking shopping around is essential. Jeff TT

Sounds like a generic Jap spec chip, in the main most generics are similar and allow you to run more boost for more power of course, for more information it will need the actual mapping looked out on a ConZult or similar diagnostic system. Jeff TT

Danny I am thinking you not quite understanding the set up,the turbo cannot spin backwards, the noise your hearing the the bov lifting early and loosing boost, the issue is because on a light to half throttle there is an amount of vacuum been produced on the line to the bov diaphragm by virtual of the pressure difference between the two sides out of the throttle butterflys. Trouble is after market bovs are often universal and don`t really in my view suit the zed at all, if I had any recommendation it would be to remove and leave the stock re-circs to do their stuff. Jeff TT