JeffTT

Water has effected the back of the fuse box in the drivers side footwell, there is a relay that powers up a section of the fuse board when you turn the key to position 1, either the relay is faulty or the interconnecting bus bars are corroded ( most likely ) bit of a ball ache to remove and check out but you may have to change it for another one. Rob

The pulley has an internal rubber harmonic damper and this can split and cause similiar a problem to what you have, if this is the case it will need replacing. Rob

I beg to differ Graham, when an auto to manual conversion is done without connecting the neutral swith but still using an auto engine ecu, it will not give high idle due to the ecu not been able to communicate with the now missing autobox, infact it will place a fault code in the engine ecu fault codes to this effect, as it can no longer "see" the box it will make no attempt to raise the revs because of the missing neutral switch, it only raises the expected timing ( via Consult ) to 25deg but in fact the engine is still dynamically at 15deg also the auto box ecu defaults to fail too for the same reason and hence will not communicate with the engine ecu. Robertz

Neutral switch not been connected will not cause the high idle only a 25 deg timing reading. The high idle can be caused by the cold run part of the aux air valve stuck open/ bad connection or the closed throttle on the tps not made due to incorrect setting or a bad connection, even an air leak/ throttle imbalance can cause the same issue. Robertz

The injectors do indeed have an unswitched permanent 12 volt so are live even with the ignition switched off. The ecu switches the earth line to the injectors simultaneously when the engine first started and then changes to sequential for more effeciency, any single injector issue will not effect the other five, however poor connections at the plenum earth point at the rear can lead to voltage variations. Robertz

Dip stick popped out? common cause of oil over the engine/ turbo Robertz

Sound like a boost leak, did the intercoolers have fixing holes for the ducting? quite a common problem if these are left out as boost leaks out of the fixing holes, or you have a loose or unseated hose, the neutral switch would not have any effect on the boost level. Robertz

Bit of a common problem this, there are two small triangle shaped spacers that are secured by 2 x 12 mm nuts which hold up the steering column, overtightening the 12mm nuts will have no effect other than risking them snapping! The spacers themselves have little plastic pegs that locate the bracket and the column together, these pegs wear and sometimes break and it is this what causes the movement. However if you loosen the 12mm nuts slightly and turn the spacers to the left or right a bit whilst tightening the 12mm nut back up you can achieve a satisfactory result, it is more of a work around than a cure and may at a later date need adjusting again, this I guess is what edk83 has found with out realising it. Robertz

Edit to above missed a word out *............Doh!! The sump air itself is also restricted by the very nature of its design so there is an on going balancing act at tick over where the valve is opened slightly but *NOT enough to draw oil laden air into the intake, now a valve with a broken or weak spring will open fully and so cannot maintain that important air balance and as a consequence will draw oil laden air into the combustion chamber and hence smoke at idle. Robertz

The key to understanding why a worn / weak and leaking valve can be the cause of smoke at idle is to understand in more detail what happens in a fully functioning valve. The valves do work how you mentioned well sort of..... they do close when on boost as the boost pressure acts against the free side of the valve and shuts them. However when on idle the valve is opened but not fully, remember there is a closing spring fitted albeit a weak one acting against the vacuum BUT more importantly the amount of vacuum acting on the valve is reduced by the restrictor fitted in the rubber pipe. The sump air itself is also restricted by the very nature of its design so there is an on going balancing act at tick over where the valve is opened slightly but enough to draw oil laden air into the intake, now a valve with a broken or weak spring will open fully and so cannot maintain that important air balance and as a consequence will draw oil laden air into the combustion chamber and hence smoke at idle. An interesting point, we know the all important restrictor in the rubber pipe directly effects the amount of valve opening and hence emissions, US sourced pcv rubber pipes have different sized restrictors in than UK sourced ones, most likely an emissions thing, this would also point to why some cars have problems at MOT time with the emissions, which in part could be caused by faulty valves or rubber pipes with no restrictors in ( Non Nissan ) Robertz

No unfortunately this does not work because the recirc valves which are diaphragm operated and will leak at tick over ( high intake vacuum) what you need is piston activated valves which will not leak at tick over, in other words dump valves. Robertz

Easy fix is to remove the speedo head from the new cluster and fit it to your original. Robertz

Optional heater output vent available from Nissan, picks warm air from the black duct (needs cutting out) behind and directs it to your knees, think it was fitted as standard in the convertable. Rob

no map sensor fitted to a Z32, guess you may have removed the boost gauge sensor. Rob

The air con pod supply is fed from position one of the key so either the ignition switch is faulty or the relay that energises that part of the fusebox ( by the accelerator pedal ) is stuck in. (heard that water ingress in the back of the fuse box can cause this) Try and disconnect the the ignition barrel plug ( key out of barrel ) and see what happens to the air con display, if it goes off the switch is faulty however if it stays on the relay/ fusebox must faulty. Robertz

The cost of the eliminator bar does not include new inner hicas arms which you still need, so unfortunately will cost more in the long run. Rob

Sounds like the intercooler or atached pipes have been damaged or dislodged and you now have a big air leak, take a look behind the bumper by removing the front plastic wheel arch panel. Rob