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JeffTT

Standard Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by JeffTT

  1. Was a genuine Nissan pump fitted? also was the Nismo thermostat off e-bay? Jeff TT
  2. Oh what a shame:cry: no injuries short or long term I hope, so are you likely to return to Z ownership? or not sure. Jeff TT
  3. JeffTT replied to a post in a topic in General Discussions - 300ZX Related
    Avoid them! they are similar to a few sets I have seen and the quality is very questionable, the seating is unsecure and at MOT time they would likely fail. Much better to follow the proven springs mentioned by others in this ( old ) thread. Jeff TT
  4. Hi Trev, All good working hard to keep it that way too, your car still looking mighty fine! Jeff TT
  5. Hi Allen, yes real good matey, good to be back. Jeff TT
  6. Cheers Dean, did you get the pulley sorted ok in the end? Jeff TT
  7. Noise in the area described can be the result of either a noisy lifter, noisy cam bearing or and the most likely a noise cambelt pulley ( top one ) Noise diagnostic is by its nature can be difficult especially as one persons idea of tapping can be another persons idea of knocking, the two are very different. So based on my own view on it, if the noise is a light half engine speed tap its most likely a lifter, if however it is a heavy knock at half engine speed it could be a cam bearing and finally a full engine speed knock which is worse when cold that gets less sever when warm is more likely to be the top cambelt pulley. Before you commit to any repair you need to determine what the precise cause of the noise is, or you could be throwing cash at it, also any good brand 10w40 semi synth oil will be ok, 3k to 4k oil change dependant upon your driving style and journey lengths really means fully synth is not always compulsory. Good luck Jeff TT
  8. No, first time was purely by chance did not even know it was on until we had breakfast in the hotel and every other guy was wearing a motorsport T-shirt! Jeff TT
  9. Yes was a cool trip, we did Vegas as well, now that is a place like no other, the Vegas Sema car show is amazing. Jeff TT
  10. Lucky you, was in LA a few years ago part holiday part business, thought Hollywood was weird but what a place for cars!!!! Jeff TT
  11. Good news you got the engine sorted, and do drop in any time more than welcome. :D Jeff TT
  12. The A/F reading will change when traveling along due air pulses variations within the afm and of course this is part of the correct design and function. The base reading at idle can be effected by what chip is fitted, standard Nissan one usually shows around 109% JWT chips show 100% and Import chips can be as low as 95% Jeff TT
  13. Surely the engine wiring loom is the same, AT and MT engine sensors etc are the same? also the auto engines and manual engines are swapped between cars, only the alternator loom is different. Jeff TT
  14. Instead of going for a "chip upgrade" you would be better advised to have what you have checked over first as it sound like you may have issues which are causing the poor performance, if you do not address these first then any upgrades will be disapointing. Some things to be checked would be ignition timing, boost leak, detonation sensor, throttle balance any other ecu codes. Any combination the above can cause lethargic acceleration, but the timing and detonation sensor/boost issues are most favourite. You may find that after sorting any possible problems you will be more than happy with the performance. Jeff TT
  15. No the temperature sensor. Jeff TT
  16. Ask away guys, eager to earn my keep:D Jeff TT
  17. Looks like you have more than one issue but the main one is the lack of drive, this almost is certainly cause by the fluid strainer been blocked inside the gearbox. The nature of what is blocking it will determine what the future holds for your autobox, if it is metal then game over, if it is small bits of fibre then it could be just normal wear and tear on the brake bands etc. usually caused by lack of service, if it is long strips of fibre its fractured parts of the clutches which could be a bigger problem. So the first step is to drain the auto box if it has a drain plug ( not all do) if not prepare to get oily, the sump is secured by a series of 10mm bolts which when all removed the sump will come off and then you can see the stariner and remove it. Thoroughly clean all debris form the stainer and clean any bits from the internals of the gearbox, re-assemble using a new sump gasket and refill with at least 3 litres of fluid run up and then re-check the level again. Clearly there is more than 3 litres of fluid in the gearbox so after 50 to 100 miles you need to do the whole proccess again to completely clean the box and torque convertor out. Small tip is to apply a little grease to the sump gasket when fitting which will allow it to be removed and re-used the second time around Hope that helps Jeff TT
  18. The small plastic section that has been mentioned is common to fail, the part is NOT available on its own as previously mentioned only with a complete barrel, now you could stump up the £50+ cost and just use the plastic bit and that way retain the same key OR be clever and use the one from your passenger barrel! it is handed but with 10 seconds with a file it will fit just fine. Jeff TT
  19. Take a look at the temp sensor at the front of the engine, the connection can become poor or disconnected and will cause an overfueling problem, this in turn can lead to flooding and the situation you find yourself in. The sensor is located on the front / centre of the engine on the alloy water pipe, in fact there are two sensors but you need to be checking the larger left hand one. Remove the connection and clean it with a sharp knife and WD40 or similar, then make sure it is tight. As it is likely the engine is flooded you need to deal with that next, locate the fuel pump fuse in the small slim black fuse box on the drivers side under the bonnet close to the brake booster, it is the green fuse closest to the engine, remove this and then with the accelerator fully depresed crank the engine for 5 to 10 seconds, pause for a few seconds and then crank it again for 5 to 10 seconds. Switch off the ignition and replace the fuse, now restart the engine but do not touch the accelerator until the engine is running. This is a very common problem so do not worry to much, some times best when you have more time is to work through many of the sensor connectors and clean them to avoid problems in the future. Hope that helps Jeff TT
  20. Mmmm.......things move on eh? Cheers anyhow, your trip to the US looked like a lot of fun. Jeff TT
  21. :rolleyes::rolleyes: Thanks, plenty of time to talk now:D Mmm...think I must of just been lost for a while:rolleyes: Jeff TT
  22. Thanks Billy, rear spoiler on your Z suits just right...love it. Jeff TT
  23. Cheers steve,yep cool to be back. Jeff TT
  24. Me late..............nooooo! me the boss.......yup! Cheers Richard, good times ahead. Jeff TT
  25. Hey up TiZer, thanks matey, you car is looking well fine. Jeff TT

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