JeffTT

Hi John, AS far as the hard pipe at the rear of the engine is concerned then can supply you that from stock no worries, the restrictors you mention are an essential part of the pcv / pipe system and its balance, so much so that if you purchase the pipes from the US and depending which state the Nissan dealer is located the restricter size is different, which no doubt has some bearing on the different emmission laws between states and between the US and UK. The metal brush is designes as a flame trap and is fittedin the front pipes to the inner camcovers It is for that reason a word of caution is required when purchasing certain parts from the US dealer network, this is my view and I know some traders who have in the past purchased these and other parts will most likely disagree, but I deal in real world mechanics everyday not just behind a pc screen and Sunday afternoon tinkering. PM me have you address and can post your bits out FOC of course. Oh and HAPPY NEW YEAR to all on the forum Jeff TT

Parts software same as main dealer uses except not live as in connected to the Nissan network, excellent for parts numbers etc. available on e-bay for a few £s or ask someone here for a copy Jeff TT

Hi Vijay With the cd in the drive, 1) Open my computor and identify the cd 2) Right click on the cd and then click on explore 3) Once the disc has opened, find the win "2000_s" set up folder 4) Right click it and then click explore. 5) You will have a sub menu open now with the folders named "set up" 6) Double click the set up tab and the disc will start to install the programme just follow the instructions. Jeff TT

NGK PFR6B-11C = Standard fit in UK for TT NGK PFR6B-11 = Standard fit in Japan for TT In the real world either plug will work without any real issues even with more boost, however as UK fuel is rated lower than Jap fuel it is best to change them when you have the chance, saying that if the truth be known every if not all imports will have the NGK PFR6B-11 plug in and this alone has not proved to be an issue concidering how long imports have been in the UK now. Jeff TT

Ok what you have does sound like a UK switch, the UK cars did not have front spotlamps but did have headlamp wash, the rear fog switch is in the same place as your Jap spec front spot lamps switch, with the only difference been that the little lamp sign is the other way around to denote rear fog rather than front spots. The UK switch will not help you unfortunately as you still need your front spot switch to be operative, have seen some owners have fitted a toggle switch in the spotlight circuit ( hidden ) so that 99% of the time the switch operates the front spotlamps but at MOT time the toggle switch is changed and then the switch operates the rear fog, that way Mr MOT is happy and you can return the switch to normal operation after. If however you want to keep the operation of both circuits seperate then a smaller discreate illuminated switch can be fitted in the side of the switch pod. Jeff TT

Assuming you have plenty of fluid in the gearbox it will be the common problem caused by debris in the fluid has blocked the strainer in the gearbox. This causes loss of line pressure as the fluid cannot pass through, when the engine is switched off for a while the fluid that is above the strainer drains back into the gearbox sump and tempory flushes the strainer, and hence when restarted the drive is back for a few moments until the strainer gets blocked again. Next option is to drain the gearbox and remove the sump, then remove the strainer and clean out, clean as much debris out of the gearbox you can and refit the strainer and sump, fill up again and test.Some times you will be ok for months or years after this sometimes a day but hey may as well try it, if all seems ok after 100 miles or so do the flush thing again just to get any more debris out. There are two kinds debris depending on which one it is will determine the outcome. 1) Fibre This is cleanable and may not return, often normal clutch or band shedding, often caused by lack of fluid changes 2)Metal This is a no, no any decent amount of metal debris means the box has already started to self destruct, no amount of flushing will cure this. Hopefully you have a chance to save it. Jeff TT

Auto box can display similar faults to what you have and mostly ends up in higher gears been lost and eventually a totally failed autobox. However assuming you still have all gears but need to coax the gearbox to change into them by varing the throttle input then it is possibly an incorrect setting or poor connection on the throttle position sensor (tps). The tps should be your first call, the black box fitted to the passenger side of the engine on throttle butterfly spindle, it has two cable connection on it, one directly plugged in to it and one on a flylead. The setting is very important to the crisp change of the auto box, also a poor connection can give a corrupted signal and so firstly try disconnecting the plugs, clean with WD40 or similar and reconnect and test. If that does not work the tps setting will need to be checked, do a search for actual way to do this using a test meter, or if someone close by has a ConZult diagnostic then that`s the way to go. So dont` despair yet it may just be the adjustment / bad connection and will cost you nothing to fix. Jeff TT

Thanks, meht was searching my pc for a photo, nice one. Jeff TT

Ok Robwilde unfortunately you have seen the downside of 300zx early in your ownership but don`t despair. Many of the members are having various running issues at the moment and as said by others these often are caused by sensors and connections, unfortunately there are numerous permitations of sensor readings, faults, poor connections etc. that can be the cause of your particular issues and yes no doubt there will be similarities between the faults on different car but the actual cause and fix can be very different which is why your getting frustrated by the generalised answers which is very common. Really the only way way to resolve the running issue is start at basics and move through the electronic diagnostic section by section using a ConZult system. If I can offer any help it is in the form of a free check and sort out, this at least will identify the problem if not resolve it completely now this is done strictly for subscribed members only, but represents true value for money as it sorts your car and 12 moths FORUM subscription all in one. Jeff TT

Isolation switch on the drivers door is pressed. Jeff TT

Have mailed you. Jeff TT

Ah shucks you making me blush.:rofl: Jeff TT

Stage 3 chip? what is the spec on it? Jeff TT

Power upgrades only work in packages and in unison with each other. 440 injectors will require a change of chip suited to the injector size otherwise overfueling wil occur. 1)So lets assume you now have the chip changed and the injectors fitted, now to make "extra" power you need to raise the boost as the injectors and chip will not add power on their own. 2)So lets assume you now have the chip + injectors + boost controller or boost jets, you now have the makings of extra power up to 1 bar provided the engine is set up proffessionally. So typically you have spent on injectors(£400) + fitting (£200)+ chip(£150) + boost controller ( £250)+ fitting (£90) or boost jets (£1) so that will work out a fair packet especially considering to get more power after this will mean bigger turbo`s and to change the injectors and the chip again. Most injector swaps start at 555`s as it is a more flexible upgrade and means bigger turbo`s later will not need injector swap again. For a no nonsense power upgrade provided you have a good sound engine go for a straight chip and boost upgrade which will allow you to run up to 14 psi max and give you a huge power hike for the cost ( approx £220 ) but ensure it is done proffessionally which not only gives you the best results but also affords a level of warranty. Jeff TT

Try dropping the widow slightly to just check it not the window trying to carry on raising, if this is the case the clicking will be the window module. Jeff TT

There is not a "stock" restrictor mig tip only a stock boost solenoid which is designed to limit maximum boost when the engine is either cold or in safety boost situation (detonation) any mig tip fitted would be aftermarket. The obvious result of having one tip fitted is it is not really compatible to use with a boost controller Provided the boost contoller is set up correctly and is reading the amount of boost it should still be able to regulate it, all depends on how the contoller has been plumbed in with a mig tip too. Quite correct, exactly the same as what the boost controller is set to do but with an electronic valve. The correct way to plumb in a boost controller is to link the two actuators together this way they are reatively balanced ( not exactly ) if connected this way and a mig tip in one side also then one actuator will be held closed longer than the other, the level of available boost before the actuator opening will be more from one turbo. A very common misconseption is one turbo will be boosting more, they are both still spinning at the same speed, just one is having a larger amount of the boost it is producing been diverted out the earlier opening wastegate. You really should remove the mig tip and use the boost controller to operate both actuators equally, would be more controlled that way. JeffTT

Loose window runners, remove the door trim and check them all, especially the one running up the back section of the door to the highest point, often these fall out completely. Jeff TT

Now you completely eligable for a no obligation free vehicle assessment and report + a free ConZult and set up. :) Jeff TT

Sorry matey was looking at the picture old the series l ptu and assumed the proceedure was different between the two. Jeff TT

Yes the bit with the ashtray, however you need to start with the bit around the radio first as it overlays the lower part at the bottom. To remove the radio section remove all the screws, two at top and two half way down behind the little panel above the radio itself.The lower section is held by two press clips so ease them out with a screwdriver each side at the bottom. Now the lower section ( ashtray bit) fixing screws are revealed, undo them, and one in the ashtray area,at the rear drivers side a press fixing needs easing out,now pull up and remove the cable to the mirror switch some other cables are connected, either disconnect them or turn the parts side ways to reveal the selector and the annoying solenoid, and that`s it remove the solenoid and then test all ok and replace the parts above. Hope that helps Jeff

Can concur with that sentiment, have owned a black Vectra GSi v6 Estate for nearly 6 years now and with the exception of tyres an exhaust and normal service it is a brilliant car, never understood why Jeremy Clarkson hated them so much? Amost 200bhp with Recaro seats lowered and stiffened suspenion 17" wheels deep front bumper spoiler rear window spoiler, fuel computor, elec windows, c.locking etc, etc all as standard! paid £5k for it 6 years ago with 97k miles on the clock, now it has 160k miles and despite thinking about selling many times I just love it, powerful, reliable, and 28- 32 miles per gallon oh and that V6 sound...love it and so do my dogs who travel in with me to work everyday. Jeff TT

Common problem, easiest way is to remove it ( UK cars never had it fitted ) remove the centre consul which gives access to the shifter assembly, frommthere you will see the small solenoid and lever causing the issue, just remove it and job done. Jeff TT

If you subscribe you could take advantage of the offer below, worth joining just for that, let alone the help and chat you get for the next year. Jeff TT

They XS TUNING are the easiest to get hold of and getting an welder / exhaust co to relocate the O2 sensor boss/ thread is a simple and inexpensive job. Jeff TT

I expect the series ll PTU to have a similar method of testing but the fgures are likely to be different as the it is all solid state wher the earlier unit is not. Have you checked the cas unit connection? Jeff TT