JeffTT

Well have loads of them, try this guess the year of this zed based on its condition Jeff TT.

Well nothing is impossible but to be fair I missed that bit so on reflection it would seem unlikely but got to be worth checking as an eliminator. By the way were they brand new from Nissan or spurious make? if you get chance to check them look at the wear pattern on the pads from side to side and also check the piston dust seals. Jeff TT

Jimmer is the winnner:bow::bow::bow: CLEVER BOY :D Warning to anyone swapping engines to check compatability, re-tapped torque convertor and a used flex plate along with a crank adaptor ( boss ) sorted it. Jeff TT

Sort of, well not the actual cause, a clue is the engine had been changed by the owner recently. Jeff TT

Just a bit. Ok another one for ya, what cause this damage? the noise this was making was amazing, owner thought it was his engine making the noise and needed replacing. Jeff TT

Amazingly yes :shock: Jeff TT

HELLRAISER IS THE WINNER Nice one matey:bow::bow::bow: Culprit below Jeff TT

Nope. Jeff

No and no:) Jeff TT

Ok another one for you, no foreign parts in this one so what do you think cause this? Jeff TT

One thought I had was if it was the bolt used to release the belt adjuster after the belt was fitted and was left screwed in the adjuster slightly and worked its way out? Jeff TT

Well guys your all flipping close you clever lot. Culprit below. It was caught under the crank sprocket. Real worry is the "rebuilt" engine water pump was not replaced, did not bode well for the rest of the rebuild, however the engine had not been damaged. Next mystery why the hell was that bolt there? never goning to know that one. Jeff TT

Thought it may be interesting to see some photo's of real faults & damage that can occur to your zed rather than hypothetical conversations, also may be fun to have a guessing game, take a look at the following photo's, and see if you can guess what went wrong. Have loads of these and hopefully will of interest for members to see what really transpires when these varied faults occur. The background to this particular fault is as follows, a rebuilt engine from a small company with in house engineering cnc machining, heads and turbo rebuilding facility. Car was collected from said builder and around 60 miles later the following was discovered after an engine noise was heard and seem to be getting worse, the noise was semi metallic with a scrapping noise in time with engine speed. Jeff TT

Semi seized caliper pistons, sometimes the amount of pressure to move all of the piston can become unbalanced which means on light braking not all the pistons are moving to act on the disc until extra pressure is applied and this can cause one wheel to get extra braking applied which will cause the car to veer, you need to inspect the brake calipers and maybe rebuild them. Jeff TT

Hi , dealing with the issue you have now it would appear to have been a flooded engine originally but your efforts to correct this has caused more issue`s and this is so common due to bad connections etc a code check would help now, check here for how to do this http://www.zedworld.co.uk/wizzj.html Scroll down to ecu codes For the spark failure check the cas unit connections and ptu connections, in particular the lowest one which is often the most likely one to corrode and fail. Assuming you get the spark sorted you need to do a flooded engine start as I have set out below. Right a bad connection at the temps sender will cause not only a fault code but gives a corrupted signal to the ecu and the ecu fail safe it to run the injectors very rich, this can lead to an engine been very unhappy to idle ( uneven + erratic ) cuting out at junctions or non starting after flooding. Best bet is to try a flooded engine start procedure but before this unplug the engine temp sensor first. It is located at the front of the engine, behind the coolant fan and on top of the alloy pipe, in fact there are two sensors side by side, the one you want is the larger of the two on the left with the other been a single spade connection which is for the temp gauge on the dash cluster, you may well know all this but just in case you did not. 1)Ok now the sensor is clean and refitted with the ignition OFF remove the fuel pump fuse, this is located in the black fuse box along side the brake master cylinder and is marked up on the lid, it is a green fuse closest to the engine. 2)Now with the fuse removed turn the ignition on and depress the accelerator fully then crank the engine over for around 5 seconds, remember to keep the accelerator depressed through out. 2) Pause cranking for 5 seconds and then repeat, for 5 seconds pause again for 5 seconds and repeat once more, now turn off the igntion 3)With the ignition off replace the fuse, now turn on the ignition and WITHOUT any accelerator crank the engine and hopfully will start up. If it didn`t start but almost did then start at no 1 again. Try that and us know, will address any other issues once she is running again or it will get confusing. Jeff TT

It sounds like the drop links from the rear antiroll bar to the lower arm. The rubber bushes do split, as luck would have it they are quite cheap just a couple of pounds each and easy to replace. Link to the on line service manual http://http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=ra&dir=&config=&refresh=&slide=23&cycle=off&scale=0&design=default&total=35 Hope that helps Jeff TT

Yes no worries. Jeff TT

Yes there are gas shocks and yes they do have oil in them but as a cooling aid. Inspecting the shock visually is limited and if after you have replaced the hicas arm etc and reset the tracking the problem is not completely resolved the shocks would be best removed and checked with the coil springs removed and as Legrath said they will most likely be worn out. Jeff TT

Hi Steve, To be honest I cannot remember it was removed last year and was wrapped and shelved, the car details it came from will be on our data base so will check that out tomorrow and the condition of the plates etc and let you know,will get some photo`s also.:D Jeff TT

OS Giken have many versions and are UK based which is a good thing, they can be a little noisy as the mutiplates rattle in the housing when stationary and in neutral, this is not a fault just a characteristic oh and yes they are a little heavier but not excessive. A brand new item with flywheel will cost you in excess of £1200 big one, if you are interested I have a used one in stock that was taken from a breaker and is complete and ready to go and more important will cost a fraction of a new item. Jeff TT

Danny, save your money using auto electricians, buy a new kit from DTA ( Trader here) they are so much better value now, easy to fit and better than the ones you have and come with a warranty, have used the DTA supplied kits and they are real good. Jeff TT

Yep bang on, many years ago my brother could match my Sierra Cosworth in his 16v Astra on a drag race but once I got up to third gear it was bye bye Astra. Jeff TT

Not uncommon to find what seems like a perfectly well running zed is in fact underperforming due to set up issues, having said that Civic Type R do have Sh?t hot acceleration but top out early, always good to get it checked though. Jeff TT

Cool Pete, sure was a few weird issues there, very difficult to resolve without a proffessional diagnostic to be fair so don`t feel too bad about your own efforts you had done ok concidering. Jeff TT

Does the engine run slightly better or the same if the injector connectors to the offending cylinders are left disconnected? Jeff TT