JeffTT

Hello, right first the assessment in my view is incomplete in its detail and for this reason you are second guessing many "fault issues" a shame because an assesment should give you the answers not just pose more questions. Many of the guys here are on the right track and as Legrath explained justifying any repair cost is up to how you value the car personally not in ££££sss. Right looking at what we from the "assessment" I believe you have a set of faults that may well have a single cause, this has mudded the water a little and is often the case with wiring/ connection issues. The following items 1 to 4 have common return earth shielding and although I would be fairly certain no 1 the det sensor circuit is at fault, the following items are highly unlikely to all have individial faults this is most likely a problem with the aformentioned earth shielding been damaged and leading to cross sensor faults on 2, 3 & 4 1)Engine :code 34 - det sensor 2)Both O2 sensors dead (no response) 3)Coolant sensor (Gauge) - inoperative 4)Coolant sensor (Ecu) - inoperative 5)Engine oil leak front lower - possible FMS or Sump 6)Engine oil leak Rear - Possible Rear crankseal or Sump 7)Engine oil leak Nearside upper - possible turbo feed 8)Exhaust system - (Blocked cats maybe causing possible restriction) 9)Body - Underseal required 10)Hicas Pump - lines leaking Service items Coolant - Needs flushed and replaced Thermostat - replace Waterpump - possible replacement needed Coolant leak front rear of engine - possible Hose (needs investigation) ........................................................................................................ Oil leaks, yes well they are less than desirable but not the end of the world, No 5 Most likely is connected with the leaking steering pipe from the steering pump and in fact are most likely from the same source ie the high pressue steering pipe, confused for engine oil is common as although power steering fluid is cherry red by the time its splashed around dirty undertray etc it looks like oil, high pressue pipe easy to change and more cost effective to replace with rebuilt item rather than a new one from Nissan dealer No 6 rear cranks seal, very likely this is one item correctly assessed, saying that its dead easy to see! No 7 Turbo oil pipe leaking...well most likely not as said by Legrath the rocker covers are the likely culprit with the oil running down on to the turbo / manifold area, although a large amount of stripping is required to replace the sealant on the outer covers its easy enough and some other worth while jobs can be done at the same time such as plenum water by pass and maybe the det sensor so with all those cross over jobs it could be quite cost effective. No 8 Exhausts blocked, highly unlikely,often used as a sales technique to sell exhausts! No 9 a tin of underseal repair paint and a brush...easy. No10 See No 5 The remaining items you listed are service issues that would be covered by a cambelt and pump swap....easy. There is nothing of major worries with the list, granted it lookes daunting but the slight mis-diagnosis has added to that. Well good luck with whatever you decide, maybe time to subscribe and get the fuller benefits of the club such as free specialist assessments:rolleyes: Jeff TT

Ok assuming you have what most would consider a misfire ie a cylinder failing to fire due to failed spark then quite why the temp sensor is at question is a puzzle. The temp sensor can cause running issues due in most cases to simple dirty connections but this will cause overfueling, this would show as possible difficulty in hot engine starting due to flooding or poor pick up / hesitation /uneven running from idle due to overfueling, very different to a misfire. Misfires are generally caused by poor connections to the ptu and injectors, a faulty air flow meter can potentially cause fuel drop outs that can sound like a misfire but are not strictly that. You need to get a more detailed diagnostic, most "general garages" will not have a chance of finding zed type faults, find some one close to you with a ConZult and make sure that person knows how to use it and you will get a much clearer idea of what is the "real" problem. Jeff TT

If you want to retain the car if written off I would be inclined to not let the car go out of your possession as that is a no no, get the assessor to come to your home. They often winge they want to see it on a ramp etc but believe me thats mostly not the case. If it takes longer than a few weeks to resolve the place it gets taken to will charge so much storage you will never get it back. Always keep possession of your car in these circumstances is my advice. Jeff TT

We have those in stock. Jeff TT

Will pm you in a few mins Jeff TT

Due to the way the ecu works with both stored and live data it takes some doing for the emmisions to be so far out, even if you had something like blocked air filters or failed o2 sensors the ecu still continues to relearn and will always return to base settings when getting sensor failure warnings. Of course do not overlook air filters and the O2 sensor but I would also look at the air flow meter in particular and timing, along with throttle balance and base idle settings. As said previous a CoZult diagnostic is the next step and with an operator who knows how to use it the problem will soon be found. Jeff TT

Ok guys just a quick thanks, my laptop had got soooo slow especially when on line and on this site in particular? Having removed a lot of unrequired stuff I had left lots of fragmented registry data somehow?? all were removed correctly so as my mate says its a Windowism!! Anyhow ran CCleaner and it took a while but there was 226 reg faults and it fixed them all, I did a little clean up on temp files etc and now all running tops Thanks guys. Jeff TT

The shims are primary to keep the pad operation quiet and in its not unusual for them to be missing alltogether. The small shim works by very slightly changing the angle that the pressure is applied to the pad by the pistons. What this does is prevent the pad resonating when applies which is heard as squeel. So carry on in the knowledge all will be ok. Jeff TT

Yes certainly keep the EBC disc and pads set up you have they will fit fine. Jeff TT

I have rear Brembo`s too and they look the same as the Nissan one`s (but have Brembo on of course ) and yes are a direct fit and even use the same brake pad as original, oh and the brake pipe threads are all the same so yes your braided hoses will fit as did mine :D Jeff TT

The label alone suggests it is a replacement eprom ( chipped ) and typically when done in Japan they have soldered it direct to the board as the original Nissan one was and not in a socket, a quick check on a ConZult ( ecu plugged into car ) would determine what the mapping is. Jeff TT

They are a direct fit, well sort of, the backplate dirt cover needs bending back so its clear of the new larger disc and you will also need the bolts that come with the Brembo calipers as they are specific to the caliper threads. Sorry have no direct experience of the yellow stuff pads. Jeff TT

Major overheat? Jeff TT

EBC had a shake up of their pad material spec. a couple of years back and slowly it has filtered through to what they suggest is normal and what is track etc. now based on the feedback from testing by themselves and end users. Jeff TT

Personally Dan had no problems whatsever with that set up on my own zed and of all the owners on here who have done that particluar mod have not seen any post actually suggesting any different. Jeff TT

Let`s not all forget, you could have timing / fueling issues that`s causing detonation (not always heard ) and hence the system is doing exactly what it is designed to do ie put the engine in safety boost mode. Jeff TT

Yes you can get a cap without cables, have answered your other question too.:D Jeff TT

It is so much easier to use the Auto alternator loom, with just a few minor changes (takes 2 minutes) I would stop and go back to that if I was you, if you don`t have one let me know will send you one already modded and marked up for you. Jeff TT

Kind of guessed you had, I assume its a conflict issue, both my zeds did it after the clocks where changed for UK items but to be honest has never bothered me nor has the reverse beeper which some find annoying. Jeff TT

Have you fitted a UK spec speedo cluster? that causes the noise also. Jeff TT

Later spec loom designed for the electric hicas equiped cars, hence no hicas / fluid evel connection for the reservoir same as non turbo. Jeff TT

Holding in 3rd gear is a built in get you home fail safe for when there is an electronic fault that the gearbox ecu can recognise. As Uno said a code check on the autobox will be the place to start, posts any results here. Jeff TT

No Mate, its not and its not a forum members car either. Jeff TT

The spark plugs will not be the cause of the hesitation look at throttle balance, base tick over setting and tps setting. Jeff TT