JeffTT

Cool..... I`ll say was on the last line of that and my laptop battery started failing had to get the mains lead super quick before it I lost it.:hyper: Jeff

Hi Zee, there is a very simple fool proof method to determine if a turbo is seized or not. But firstly if you have zero boost on the gauge and no associated noise from escaping boost it will almost certainly be a seized turbo, however remember as the inlet uses the balancer bar to equal the pressure to both sides of the engine then it also means any boost been produced from the good turbo can more easily channel down the stalled turbo, in fact due to the exhaust exiting past the small impeller it actually causes a vacuum effect drawing the boost from the other turbo* The method of checking this out will also demonstrate this very well, of course when you shut the throttle very quickly there is a sharp change in the turbo equalisation and some will exit the dump valves anyway albeit much quieter than normal. 1) Ok start by disconnecting the air flow meter. 2) loosen all four jubilee clips to the large intake pipes to the throttles 3) Choose a side and remove the large pipe completely 4) Start the engine ( yes it will run as it is ignoring the disconnected afm ) 5) Take a latex glove and secure it over the steel pipe coming from the intercooler.NOT THE THROTTLE 6) Rev the engine and observe the glove. What happened? A) If it blows up then that`s boost from the turbo and that side is ok. B) If it fails to inflate and looks like it is sucking in then that is the possible seized turbo *(remember the exhaust sucking issue) C) Do the same test on the other side regardless of result, the engine may be a little unsteady with both pipes off and it helps if an assistant can keep the revs up a little for you. 7) Once established which side it is, switch off engine and remove the outer large rubber pipe from turbo to intercooler 8)Restart the engine and again secure the glove over the steel pipe this time the one directly from the turbo. What happened? A) Same result no boost? if so then that`s it confirmed defo a seized turbo. OR B) Better result boost now ok? then that means the intercooler or pipework to or from it is leaking. Well thats about it, with a definitive answer you can then make a better informed decision on what to do next. Hope that helps, Jeff TT

There you go as if by magic they appear. Jeff TT

Have you tested to see which turbo is seized for sure? Jeff TT

The general cause for this is oil starvation to the bearing, the passenger side turbo oil feed can become blocked at the feed point just after the oil pressure gauge sensor where it narrows. Most times its just bad luck and does not mean the oil pump has a problem, changing the turbo, cleaning the oil lines out and making sure you have fresh oil every 3k to 4k miles will sort it. Jeff TT

Cambelt 2 teeth out, throttle balance way out, idle control valve set issues, timing 15 deg retarded, boost leaks from hell, tps way out, variable valve solenoids disconnected, vacuum pipes mixed up, boost controller pipes cross mixed into dump valve pipes, det sensor failed + numerous other little errors and faults. That`s enough I am sure you agree, the decision to revert back to a Nissan ecu etc was to maximise the performance against reliability and service simplicity with just normal road / family use the AEM did not fit Radron`s requirement, a tad over the top for what he actually wanted that`s all. Begs the question how the hell it was set up on the rolling road with all those faults and the lack of zed knowledge by the tuning company involved. Jeff TT

Yep ok.

The ecu / engine loom is interchangeable so do not worry about that, however when undertaking an auto to manual conversion it is just the alternator loom which is different, it is easy to use the auto one and basically requires no more than linking the autobox inhibitor switch and adding an extra cable pair for the reversing lights. Jeff TT

Dazkent I take some of your points but in general you seem to of contradicted your own argument, you speak as a professional but seem to of not grasped the very essence of why when working on the 300zx TODAY requires much more than just speedy jobs, they need dedicated inspection with quality and efficiency anything less will be half jobs and give poor value. Many owners on this forum have suffered at the hands of the “Johnny come lately specialists” who tried the exact same kind of operation you have spoken about, and to quote yourself... Nothing else to do??? so no water pipe replacement? no wiring loom inspection, connections clean, no engine set up after ? no rear crank oil seals changed ? no egr removal ? all jobs done easily and efficiently with the engine out. Rubber water pipes at the rear of the engine for instant can and do fail, changing these is like money in the bank, don't change them and later if one fails it can ruin an engine, in my mind if you swapped the turbo`s and did not deal with the hoses and they failed you would be at fault and be digging in your own pocket for a new engine. Options?....... no compromise is what your talking about and that is NOT professional Would keep that a secret if I was you This is not a personal dig, far from it, clarity is all I am trying to achieve. Jeff TT

Ok take a look at the photo below, this is the tps and is fitted on the right hand throttle body as you look at the engine ( passenger side) the unit has a 3 pin connector on a fly lead and a further electrical fixed connection which is the lower of the two in the photo, this is the one you need to disconnect and clean the connector plugged into it ( engine loom side) before you do this and to prove the point, try wiggling the connector whilst the engine is running and it will most likely effect the engine running. Hope that helps Jeff TT

I can see why on a DIY basis maybe doing it to save money and time but in the long run the addition jobs that can be done easily with the engine out makes doing it any other way less cost effective and more likely to have issues crop up, even more so in a professional workshop with warranty issues to content with then its even more important to get the complete job done properly not just a quick one. Jeff TT

The combination of raised revs and clicking points to the hard idle switch on the tps, remove it and clean the contacts. Jeff TT

They can be a little tricky, they need slightly squeezing to release, however the connectors can corrode a little and just plain get stuck, Sometimes the only answer is to release the bulb holder from the headlight and pull the bulb, holder and connector out as one, then with extra access you can release it. Jeff TT

Why would you want to do that? halve jobs are the cause of many headaches on these cars. Jeff TT

Yes the balancer bar was changed, most likely as Legrath has mentioned the small pipe has become dislodged on the boost sensor or the sensor itself has an issue, have a check and if you need a new sensor let me know and will pop one in the post for ya. Cheers Jeff TT

No idea just found it after a 10 second search on Google. Jeff

http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/maintenance/tl_z32clutch/Z32_clutchadj.html Does sound like you have more than one fault though from the symptoms, worn clutch and low fluid. Jeff TT

1. My windows, driver and passenger side have these little metal round things in the middle of which when you wind the windows down, they come into contact with the rubber seals and they are begining to perish.. is there a site or a shop or something where you can buy replacement ones? Used window strips available £15+ vat each easy to swap 2. Just below the rear Spoiler, there is the panel which I'm sure i've seen people putting brake lights into, this is also the same panel where my oem "Nissan Fairlady Z" sticker (which is starting to peel off) is. Where can you get a replacement one? and what is it made out of?.. it seems to be laminated or something and water is getting in behind it?.. That is the sticker and the panel Rear high level brake light £15 + vat Rear vinyl black sticker £20+ vat (ish) + twin turbo and Nissan stickers available £13+ vat approx each 3. T-Top roof bags, are they essential?.. and if I bought the bags.. would I need some sort of straps to hold them down in the boot? do you keep them in the boot? T-Top bags £15+ Vat each or £25 + vat per pair, straps £5 + vat 4. My lighter is missing, I have found some replacement ones on e-bay.. are these like the oem ones? OEM Lighter £2:50 + vat 5. Can you buy a Double Din panel for the head units? if so, where? Yes, non in stock 6. Finally (For Now) What are the best size "Rims" for the Z? I have always been under the illusion that 16's are amazing.. but I have seen people here with 18's and 19's?.. what is the best all rounder? - I am assuming this one could be all oppinion based, but still I would like to know your thoughts. 18" are he most popular. £800 + vat to £1200 + vat for a decent set http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=121141 Jeff TT Zedworld used parts

Mmm.. the insurance will defo write that off I am afraid, not that it that bad its just a reflection of the values and insurance companies lack of enthusiastic interest in any type or make of car...its just business. Repair is easy for a bodyshop and used parts are available, so take a cash payment to repair yourself that way you might make a little extra to spend where you want and you don`t get a write off marker on your zed, if you need any advice on how to etc. many members here to help. Jeff

There is a Nismo one in the for sale section matey. Jeff TT

Oops!! serves me right not checking when Copy and pasting.

For Titania sensors:- Titania type 1 RED = heater +ve WHITE = heater +ve BLACK = signal -ve

Common problem, but could still be a faulty valve, so a leak down test is needed now to be sure. Jeff TT

By limp home do you mean the gearbox or the engine? Jeff TT

Ok Maz, Check the fuel damper, the unit is towards the rear of the engine just under the balancer bar on the left hand side as you look from the front of the engine, the unit has a vacuum pipe from the balancer bar. Remove the pipe and see if it is wet at all with fuel, if it is this is your problem. Jeff TT