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JeffTT

Standard Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by JeffTT

  1. Here you are Hope that helps;) Jeff
  2. Yes matey your dead right, just the balancer bar at the back of the plenum means there is no difference in air pressure to the cylinders on the left bank and the cylinders on the right bank, but from there onwards, how the exhaust effects things is down to the back pressure etc. and can I guess have subtle differences. Jeff TT
  3. Thermosat stuck shut, will also make bleeding air out to make heater work almost impossible. Jeff TT
  4. Mmm.. well...actually the boost is produced from a single intake feeding both turbo`s which then both feed into a single plenum intake which feeds all six cylinders at the same time. Jeff TT
  5. Amington Accident Repair Centre UNIT 53, Sandy Way, Amington Ind Est, Tamworth, B77 4DS. Telephone: 01827 303999 Jeff TT
  6. Mmm.. can do either or both, depends on the location of the leak, good point on the AC drain often overlooked, behind the wooden panel hiding the ecu`s. Jeff TT
  7. You sure its from the targa`s, the pipes run down the A post and emerge at the front of the sill section, the rear drains run close to the B post and also emerge out of the sill, unless these pipes are split they dont normally directly leak into the cabin. Check the heater matrix, and if ok you need to remove trim to inspect the pipes. Jeff TT
  8. The foam is often caused by leak stop additives, most likely the previous owners attempt to stop the matrix leaking. The lack of heat could be an air lock, be sure to have the heater switched on and on temp 40 whilst bleeding air at the rad bleed plug and rad cap Also it is possible the operating cable for the water valve has become detached or not set correctly when refitting. Jeff TT
  9. Ok the buzzing / clicking from the boost valve is normal, the cat overheat light is normal and does not go out until the engine starts. Right back to the non start, some simple questions first, I take it from you post there is no starter action, if so is your car an auto and not fully in park? if it is a manual get some one to bump start you and get the car home for easier diagnosis of the issue. Anymore info would help so does it have an alarm/ immobilser ? are they fully disarmed? Jeff TT
  10. Will be fine driving with the afm disconnected to get to us, even with a 2.5k rev limit still equates to motorway speeds in top gear, I will be back from Cyprus by then so see you then. Jeff TT
  11. Ok thanks sorted. Jeff
  12. Long shot I know but wanted Z31 non turbo air flow meter, not for me, but needed asap if anyone knows of one, already tried mike at MJP thanks in advance. Jeff TT
  13. Available at UK Nissan dealer, take a few days to come mind. Jeff TT
  14. There is an addition circuit in the wiper motor which keeps power on to park the wipers after the switch has been cancelled. Some time the small track that is responsible for this can be cleaned to get it working again, sometimes it is easier to replace the motor with a known good one. Have a look at the motor under the windscreen scuttle panel ( the longer one) it has a small access plate on it, this is where the aformentioned circuit is located. Hope that helps Jeff TT
  15. Sounds like the one touch auto function unit, a small black box fitted in the door. This is the same unit that some times fail due to bad connections which stops the window working unless you bang the door panel. I would try changing it which is a real quick job no need to remove the door panel, just carefully pull the bottom clear of the door clips and you can reach up and swap it over with a good one. Just thought of something else, do you have an alarm that closes the windows when armed? could be a problem there if you have. Jeff TT
  16. All extra`s like the cruise control still work (or should do if corectly done) the lights you mentioned are blanks in a manual, so does not matter either way. Jeff TT
  17. As I said made especially for Nissan, cutting down a high tensile bolt will reduce its tensile value by default, so you might as well fit some from your local B&Q DIY centre, I am sure Nissan went overboard with the spec on them but then they were building it to a very high quality. Many aftermarket parts have done nothing to enhance the astetics of the body design and in many ways detract from the original way too much, but that is personal choice.However fitting lower grade or spurious mechanical parts is in my view a step too far, where do you stop? Try selling your car and add into the description well looked after but too tight to buy correct bolts, no problem just fitted cut down ones from B@Q and just watch them buyers run for the hills. Jeff TT
  18. If by any chance your trying to match them ....... good luck! we had a major nut bolt and fixings company look in to this and came up with zero. The dimentions are unique to that particular bolt it would seem Nissan had them made especially for them, hence why they are so flipping expensive! Jeff TT
  19. Check the oil filter is genuine Nissan item and if not change it along with the oil for a good known brand of 10x40 semi synthetic and be prepared to change it again in say 1000 miles or so. Non genuine filters have been known to cause oil pressure issues, especially the white Unipart one`s hence best bet is Nissan all the way. Jeff TT
  20. Get Subscribed and you then you can have it done for free!:dance: Jeff TT
  21. Defo connections issue, most likely the ptu, check the pins, they have a habit of pushing back into the connector housing and hence a bad or no connections, remember to be a non stater it will be the earth pin rather than a single coil signal. Jeff TT
  22. The mind blowing bit is you just know someone will have already done a remap for these cars ready to engage warp factor 10! Jeff TT
  23. Yes thats right, however seems to work ok. Jeff TT

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