JeffTT

Ok you posted as I did, still check the relay even if it is clicking as it could have bad contacts. Jeff TT

Little screw driver down the one side to release the clip, also when it is out you can prise the lid off, then plug it back in and operate the relay by hand to see if the horn works then. Jeff TT

You have more than one issue just by looking at the clocks 1 They are US spec clocks and only read to 160 not 180 as the clock was calibrated for. 2 The speedo needle has been put back on in the wrong place. ( not in line with zero ) 3 Tick over is a tad high considering temp reading, also low oil pressure due to faulty sender. From my experience once the needle has been removed ( unless proffessionaly ) the unit will never read correctly, not only that the back lighting is terrible as they are normally fitted over the original faces, and again just my opinion they look very poor quality and do nothing for a zed. Replace the cluster and get some nice speedo rings from Danny ( dta ) Jeff TT

The switch you mention is most likely a tuning mod similar to the one in the link below http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-300ZX-Fairlady-3-0L-ECU-Piggyback-Remap-Tuning_W0QQitemZ330293406956QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item330293406956&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1301%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 They connect into the afm and fool the ecu to run more fuel, in theory you can advance the timing or /and run more boost so thats how they claim enhanced performance. If you follow the cables and they are connected to the afm get it removed asap by someone who knows what they are doing, have the engine checked for boost mods also, these devices are NOT safe. The horn relay coil has a perm 12v with the earth side of the coil been switched via the horn push in the relay box on the passenger side under the bonnet, it is marked up as such, also there is a fuse for the horn there too, check all connections, because you have 12v you could still have a poor connection which deteriates when you operate the horn. The ambient air temp sensor is located where you have been working, a small black box normally held onto the bumper with a single 8mm bolt, however it may be clipped elsewhere just check to see if you have disturbed the cable/ connection . Jeff TT

If your zed is a UK spec fit a jap spec water pump pulley, big difference. Jeff TT

You very welcome Dave, it is easy to become disillusioned when you have not used your zed for a long time, and then to realise it may require work does often end in zeds been sold and then all tOo quickly the sale is regretted:cry: Hopefully we can return your pride and joy back to its best and get some enjoyable use next year which is going to be a wicked hot Summer as I am going to order one from e-bay.... hot weather thats is....you supposed to be able to order anythying from there.:) Jeff TT

Ah3 Same as mine Jeff TT

Well guys I can tell you more about this car because it was in our workshop just two weeks ago:hurl: We were asked to look at why after changing the engine the garage who did it could not get it to run correctly and asked us to look at it, no need to say when it arrived ( recovery truck) it looked bad and just got worse. The engine was never going to run right because it is a Joseph Technicolour mix of engines. But by far the most worrying and the main reason it was running like a dog was the NON TURBO injectors, oh yes I did say non turbo :eek: in a twin turbo. So why may I ask would you fit non turbo injectors in for? Mmm... now let me see could have been a block from here... a plenum form there.... and injectors from God knows, but why not use the original twin turbo injectors? Ok let me see how about this possibility .........maybe its a flipping non turbo engine with turbo`s bolted on:shock: We booted the car out of our garage and told them we did not want to work on it and they needed to sort it. FANCY BUYING IT NOW Jeff TT

Right you need to understand a couple of point so you do not waste time looking for non existing issues. The injectors have a permanent 12v supply even with the ignition off, the ecu triggers the injectors on the earth side. The initial fuel pump run is pressure prime, if there is sufficent pressure in the rail it will not run, however oddly this is not always the case. The injectors and fuel pump looks for a signal from the cas unit to as does the coil pack supply but only after the engine starts to crank, hence a crank signal. If a problem occurs in the ignition system it will not effect the fuel so as you are having issues with both it does look like a cas unit or cas unit connection problem. The easiest way to eliminate the cas is to remove it from the engine ( 3 x 10 mm bolts) and whilst it is still connected electrically and the ignition switched on, rotate the cas unit shaft, this should trigger the crank signal the fuel pump will run as you rotate it and also the injectors should click. By also removeing a coil pack fitting a spark plug into the end and laying it on the top of the engine ( connect) you will also see a spark as the cas is rotated. If there is fuel and no spark then the issue is with the ignition/ ptu if there is neither fuel or spark then it is the cas unit or connection. Hope that helps Jeff TT

No boost as in not going past zero normally means at least one seized turbo, a boost leak to cause zero boost would be so serious that not only would you hear it the car engine would not run well even at idle. So looks like you will be taking the engine out then:cry: Sorry Jeff TT

Ooh er missus.:D Jeff TT

Oh no stop it guys you making me blush :rofl: Jeff TT

Yes the electrode and the ceramic ....gone! Got a photo on my pc at work will post it. Jeff TT

Yes. Jeff TT

There you go Tony, your new wheels look even better in the flesh:dance::dance::dance: Jeff TT

Yes got photo`s will post them for you shortly, speak tomorrow abot your rear speakers and side light. Cheer Jeff TT

Some years back a local petrol station to me had a self service oil change system where the sucker rod fitted down the dip stick hole and removed the oil that way, if I remember right provided you purchased the oil from them there was no charge for the oil removal part. Of course this does not get as much oil out as the filter remains full etc and any heavy particules do not get removed, however as a quick in between service oil change its nice and quick. Have seen a device on a zed a year or so back where the sump plug had a remote ( by cable ) valve fitted so you could slip a tray under and open the valve and drain without lifting the car up, still only ok for a mid service oil change. see link here http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=2844615 Jeff TT

Hey up Tony you made it to the mini meet after then? how dirty was the zed when you got there and those loverly new wheels:dance: guynkate Second Tony on that daughter of yours, she is a super beauty, any dad would be proud of her ....2 years old and already set to break some hearts eh? phill82 Look forward to helping you out.:D radron Make use of the subscribed members offer. Jeff TT

The glass has a stud through it half way up the rear section, this runs in a track which is held in place by a 10mm nut that sometimes comes loose and then the window has the issue your`s has. All you need to do is remove the door upright plastic cover, this will reveal a black sticker covering an access hole to the 10mm nut, do not be surprised if has fallen off all together, just fit another on and tighten carefully. Jeff TT

Oh yes! Jeff TT

:hurl: ...............seriously, don`t know. Jeff TT

Thats cool, easy to forget sometimes when answering post`s that some readers may not be fully up to speed on the terminology etc. so good point. Jeff TT

Correct, but the noise the Dan asked about is the air hitting a closed throttle and the shock wave going back towards the turbo ( compressor ) his use of the phrase "wastegate chatter" is a common mistake but I knew what he meant. Jeff TT

Slow and sluggish sounds more like engine performance rather than gearbox problems.Unfortunately you will need to do a little more test driving ( once legal to do so) to see what the exact nature of the problem is. Jeff TT

Seperate waste gates are a different thing, usually they are used with big turbo`s so a bigger valve can be employed or some turbo`s just do not include the waste gate as part of their design so need external one`s. Cheers Jeff TT