JeffTT

The flashing is indeed informing you there is a code stored, the auto box diagnostic does seem to not work on some zed`s never found a reason why. The most likely fault code is tps ( bad connection or faulty ) speed sensor input ( delimiter ? ) or low battery is there any particular issue with the gear change that may point one way or another? Jeff TT

Another cause of pulley failure is an overtight cam belt, the adjuster is self tightening but the set position on the block is adjustable and have seen quite a few wrongly set on the block causing an overtight belt even with the adjuster not extended at all, at the end of the day the pulley is mechanical and can potentially fail so inspection is the key, changing belts without even checking them is more the problem, ensuring the workshop who changes your belt is fully experienced in Zs is the most important. Jeff TT

Take a look at the the photos, the engine was noisy in the front cam belt area, the top cam belt pulley bearing was the cause of the noise, unfortunately before we had time to take a look the noise got worse until it was so bad the owner decided to not use it and waited until the AA could transport it. The right hand cambelt cover was loosened to reveal a very slack belt, subsequent strip down and the collapsed bearing was there to see. Replacing the offending item a new cambelt, inlet pipes thermostat etc sorted it quick time. The final photo shows the pulley and the bearing carrier minus a load of ball bearings some of which were embeded in the cambelt and some trapped in the covers. Not saying all noisy pulleys will end this way, but better to be safe than sorry. Jeff TT [ATTACH]45002[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]45003[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]45004[/ATTACH]

Nick that is a very recognisable noise, given that the microphone has picked up a lot of noise that is normal and muddying the waters a bit it still is clearly a belt pulley and the most likely is the top cambelt one, Id guess the noise is worse when the engine cold The adjuster pulley on the aircon and the alternator can also cause noise but that cetainly is a cam belt pully, give me a couple of hours and will post a couple of pictures to show you what the problem is, as I dealt with the very same fault earlier this week. The fix is simple and not particularly expensive either. Jeff TT

Check the fuse box in the footwell, often water ingress down the back of it will cause damage and many of tyhe electrical problems similar to yours can be cause by this. Also check the fuse in the black relay box on the passenger side inner wing marked "engine cont" ( red 10 amp ) even if it appears ok change it, if this goes high resistance ( not blown ) this feeds the battery light which is the "exciter" circuit for the alternator to start charging. Jeff TT

Are the wipers working? if not then the aux power feed ( key position one ) is faulty. The fuse box is split in to relay switched grids and often the relay or the actual fusebox can fail due to corrossion, also the ignition switch can cause the same problems, check the back of the ignition switch as sometimes the connector can work itself out a little and become a bad connection. Jeff TT

Just so you know Sara, IF one of the turbo`s is dead the engine has to be removed to replace it, but it`s a good time to undertake other small jobs that are difficult when the engine is in, and yes I am in work tomorrow. Jeff

Check the timing. Jeff TT

To effectively sort a boost leak you need to borrow or make a bung for where the air flow meter fits, it will need to have a tyre type valve fitted so you can use a compressor to fill the intake with air and listen for the leaks. Jeff TT

Hi sara, if you can let me know your e-mail (call or mail me tomorrow ) and I will put togther more detailed instructions how to check the turbo`s and add some photos of which pipes etc, and yes its reasonable easy, the pipes to remove are at the top not the real lower ones. Jeff TT

Hi Sara, glad the ptu sorted the starting out, and do not worry about calling for help. Sadly unless you have one big boost leak ( doubtful) it sounds more like one of your turbo`s has seized.Although you have two turbo`s if one is seized all the boost from the operating one back feeds down the non functioning one, this is because the inlet plenum is connected by the black balancer bar at the rear. Disconnect the air flow meter, then remove one turbo pipe at the side and start the engine, rev it and see if you can feel any air pressure, then replace the pipe and repeat the proccedure for the other side that way you can identify which turbo has failed. Hope that helps Jeff TT

Allen I think your right, not many dump valves have easy to access blue taps:D Word of caution 300zxtt400bhp watch how high you turn that tap, as Allen said it is more likely your turning the boost up. Jeff TT

Well you have more than one issue going on there, but there is no getting away from that slipping clutch, over adjusted clutch pedal height, odd air lcoks in the hydrolics or oil on the plate can cause it but usually its just the clutch, maybe it was not the best of units when it was fitted? who knows, does the receipt give any details? Oh and the black smoke is a sure sign of a boost leak and a good one at that. You need to seperate the issues and sort them out one by one, but sadly I would hazard a gues that each one will have an impact on the next ( ie solving the boost leak will put more pressure on the clutch ) so maybe you need to get a garage to look at it. Jeff TT

Hi matey, Glad the auto box swap worked out so well, but next time get a better hotel:rofl:, on the tyre side the size you mentioned is the same as I run on my BMW 540i, a couple of weeks ago I replaced them with Avons they worked out at £155 each fitted and balanced from our local wheel specialist "Wheelmania" often wheel specialists can do better deals on the bigger sized tyres than your normal tyre bay. Jeff TT

What type of valve are they? unless they are piston type designed to work with afm equiped cars they will leak at idle and cause the very issue you have. Jeff TT

If the rev sensor is the problem and not that your misunderstanding the fault codes then it is located on the passenger around half way down the length of box and two thirds up, it is fitted on the outside so can be changed without removal of the box etc. the exhaust can be in the way a bit but it is do-able. If all else fails before giving up on the box ( again) I would consider swapping the autobox ecu for known working one. Jeff TT

To get yourself out of trouble for now, remove the door panel and reverse the motor connections and then do the down button again but this time the window will go up, not a fix but will at least will close the window for now. Jeff TT

Check out the boot vents which have rubber flaps/ shutters on, if this have become detached or just jammed open you could suffer the problem you have. There are two vents located at each side, remove the carpet,floor hardboards and side panels to reveal them. Jeff TT

It defo sounds like you have an issue with one of the many small rubber pipes that run around the back of the engine and under the plenum. The particular pipes your now having problems with were most likely ready to go anyhow, changing the water pump and also adding anti freeze ( which has searching properties) can often tip other pipes over the edge. Yor best bet is to have all of the unnecessary pipes removed/ re-routed using new ones. As others said the temp gauge sensor sits very high in the system so any water loss leaves it unable to give an acurate reading, the water fed to the heater matrix also sit high so any water loss means the flow is lost to that too. Hope that helps. Jeff TT

E-bay seller jonny z has other items for sale one been a nice cool looking ad for an air flow meter see link below http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BRAND-NEW-MAF-AFM-300zx-200sx-skyline-nissan-BRAND-NEW_W0QQitemZ220305952707QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item220305952707&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1431%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 Brand new AFM start price £100 But looks the same ad as some else`s but the contacts altered http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=370104135734 Brand new AFM £79:99 Bottom of ad says : Contact 07706 586022 or maf@swzparts.co.uk :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: Jeff TT

Yep. Jeff TT

Kinking the pipe is not a problem as the flow is a branch feed to the matrix only, no matrix no flow required, in fact when the matrix is used under normal conditions and the heat control is to minimum the flow is shut. Jeff TT

The autobox cannot be scanned as such, however a ConZult or similar system can be used to view the ecu / gearbox operation, the inbuilt fault code storage is only a start point and cannot be relied on fully. The solenoid pack in the gearbox is controlled by the ecu and these signals can be viewed along with internal box temp, internal revs, road speed etc and duty pressure percentage. When this information is viewed whilst undertest you can determine if the ecu is working ok and if the gearbox is responding or not to the ecu commands, this will lead you to the fault and if it is inside or outside the gearbox. Jeff TT

Resetting the ecu by disconnecting the battery can help with some issues and it will do no harm to do it anyway, however a faulty tps needs replacing as no amount of resetting will fix a hardware problem. When you fit the new one positioning it correctly is possible with a multimeter but to be honest a more acurate and quicker way is to get it done on a ConZult or similar system. Jeff TT

The throttle sensor if set incorrectly or faulty will have an effect on the gearchange, the auto box ecu uses it for reference along with the internal revolution sensor, the speedo signal and the engine ecu to determine when and how to change gear ( up or down ) as to whether it is causing the exact fault you have is unknown, generally tps errors cause delayed 2nd gear engagement and harsh changes. The issue your having with the power and hold lights is odd and could be an ecu fault, but more likely a loom problem. You need to do some checking to eliminate what you do know like the tps and auto box ecu to determine if the fault is outside ( hopefully ) or inside the gearbox, swap the tps and see if you can borrow an ecu as a starter. Jeff TT