JeffTT

Stock item here at Zedworld too, have our own manufacturer here. Jeff TT

Almost all manual zeds I have driven ( many) do this noise such as when turning into a side road or changing from 1st to second gear and as you said once driven through stops. The clutch fork is often ( but not always ) the culprit as it only occurs as the pressure comes off the fork and this will be worse with a missing or worn fork gaiter where it enters the gearbox. The fork acts on the bearing carrier and both the fork and the carrier wear and this can lead to the harmonic rattle as well as other issue`s with clutch judder or even poor selection Unfortunately its box out to change them both. Did a thread about the fork issue with wear some time ago, check out the link http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?145251-Nice-clutch-tech-thread&highlight=clutch+fork+tech Jeff TT

Almost all manual zeds I have driven ( many) do this noise such as when turning into a side road or changing from 1st to second gear and as you said once driven through stops. The clutch fork is often ( but not always ) the culprit as it only occurs as the pressure comes off the fork and this will be worse with a missing or worn fork gaiter where it enters the gearbox. The fork acts on the bearing carrier and both the fork and the carrier wear and this can lead to the harmonic rattle as well as other issue`s with clutch judder or even poor selection Unfortunately its box out to change them both. Did a thread about the fork issue with wear some time ago, check out the link http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?145251-Nice-clutch-tech-thread&highlight=clutch+fork+tech Jeff TT

Ok I know you have been since corrected but why did you post that? I have watched how the growing trend of misinformation here has become something of an epidemic in as far as in many cases tech questions are answered incorrectly with but with a convincingly positive and confident ( but wrong) poster, even if this gets corrected later then there is always a chance someone read the faulty information but did not revisit the thread again to see the correct answer and hence the spiral of misinformation continue`s when the reader of that post answer `s someone else`s thread and on and on. All I can say is if you do not know for sure ( done it or seen it done) say so and do not get drawn in to conclusions based on other possible duff information, be assured Stephen this was not a personal dig at you but its just highlighted an on going problem that seems to be not going away and is not just this forum Facebook is full of duff info as are other car forums. Jeff TT

Good point Lexx, not sure if it makes any difference but the standard import bulbs fitted in the front fog lights are only 35 watt so are quite low power. Jeff TT

Ok have had a look and the fog light relay under the bonnet which is activated when the fog lights switch is pressed is a double pole arrangement, one set for the fog lights and one set for the side light circuit. Have added three pictures below, the first so you know where to find the relay and its base, the second and third show the relay ( removed ) and the connection layout of the base. Simply put by interrupting ( disconnecting ) the side light circuit the fog lights will work independent then, to do this undo the fusebox and you can access either one of the side light feed cables as shown in pic 3, cut and insulate it and that`s it. Jeff TT

Ok will take a look at the circuit and come back to you. Jeff

Nissan300zx import side light circuit both rear and front is activated when the front spot lights are switched on as standard, this is to prevent driving with just front spot lights on and no rear side lights, see lots of cars with front fogs / spots on in low light level, of course the newer cars with day light running lights do run with no rear side lights but they are not designated spot/fog lamps, sure if you really wanted it that way the circuit could be reworked but not sure why you would. Jeff

Very rare to have a non operational system, and given the hicas system self checks the different sensors constantly for it to operate correctly and reports a failure and hicas shut down by a permanent hicas dash light its a fair bet that provided the light sequence is correct (ie. on with ignition goes off when the engine is started) and there is no wear in the arms/ bushes that its working ok. Jeff TT

Take a look at the picture below, made up of two shots taken at the same time, one of the dash temp gauge and one showing the ConZult temp reading, a surface reading was also taken using an infra red gun of the top inlet hose where the temp sensors fit and confirmed the ConZult reading of 100degc whilst the dash gauge is sitting happy at normal, the temp sensor was changed with the exact same result, the water was full to the brim too, so be careful, unfortunately too late for now this one is needing some head work as a block test confirmed exhaust gases in the water !! Jeff TT

Intercooler pipes are favorite for doing this. Jeff TT

10mm Internal diameter, engine oil cooler is taller on a UK models. Jeff TT

Headlights! yes I know stupid place! and there are relays for them under the bonnet too. Jeff TT

Yes time to change the belt, follow the link for some help http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?135139-Align-timing-belt&highlight=Cambelt Jeff TT

Well been abandoned outside for three or four years....... water got in everywhere mad thing is the engine is sweat as it can be?? Jeff

Was actually as a body shop and they clearly thought it a good idea to play on the car park! as I understand it they had to pay the owner for the car. Jeff

Drifting!!! and hit a kerb with the drivers side back wheel and smashed suspension so hard the force shattered the dif casing, trouble is the owner had left the zed at a garage.... yikes! Jeff

Whoops!!

Be interested to know myself on this zed, been a while with issues. Jeff TT

donec probetur Jeff TT

Agree especially where connectors are close together, another common one I see wrong is the near side variable valve timing solenoid connector and the det sensor connector both two pin units with the same detent lobe and are clipped a few inches apart. Jeff TT

It the sump pan holding it. Jeff

Did this very thing myself years ago and the ONLY way is to drop the sump, the part that has come off will be trapped until the sump is removed cutting a section out will not help you due to the baffles. Jeff TT

Top job nice one. Jeff