JeffTT

No lube them up and fit. Jeff

Take a big breath and pull the box its an easy seal to swap out and not expensive, I know it can be soul destroying when things go wrong after so much effort but your so close Dan, a collective 300zx forum hug will help motivate, so everyone reading this give Dan some encouragement you know you can do it. Jeff

Nissan have some odd idea`s about stock levels and pricing, the list price for the earlier bumper is actually more than the 99 spec. Jeff

They are in UK stock at your local Nissan dealer and are quite discount-able if you talk nice with the dealer. Jeff 99 spec bumper 62022-VP125 Left indicator 26125-VP126 Right indicator 26120-VP126 Mesh 62254-vp100

The picture below shows the difference between the bulbs, as you said the zenon / hid ones have leads on the bulb, this connects to the ballasts and the power lead goes to the standard connector on your zed so all plug and play. Hope that helps Jeff

H3 for UK zeds H3c for import zeds H3 for either when fitting zenon kits Jeff

Mmm...... well it would if a plug fouled stopped sparking filled the chamber with fuel and then managed spark especially if the op was trying to rev the issue away, with any engine running issue diagnosing it with it not in front of you is just a series of suggested checks and overloading the op with tech speak however low level is not always helpful, the most likely culprit is a bad connection spark or fuel related ( temp sensor) or as it often the case a combination of more than one low level fault. Jeff TT

Cutty, unfortunately the most common mistake when diagnosing running issues is with an over technical approach, keep it simple at first and then step up as required. The engine was running ok and then it changed very quickly, chances are it is something simple, mentioned earlier in this thread but overlooked is the temp sensor, a bad connection here Cutty will cause all sorts of running issues including flooding, poor tick over, black smoke etc. and will also cause the ac electric fan to run. Leaving the car for a while will often allow the engine to un-flood and restart, chances are when you was checking around the area at the front of the engine the loom was slightly moved and that is why it restarted. So clean up the connector and sensor and start from there. Jeff TT

No gaskets, clean and use suitable sealant. Jeff TT

Ah thanks all, oh and Gary right back at you!! :happybday: Jeff

Providing the swing arm is not seized on the adjuster and the plunger is still in good condition then will be fine, they are expensive new and a Nissan only part. Jeff TT

Providing the swing arm is not seized on the adjuster and the plunger is still in good condition then will be fine, they are expensive new and a Nissan only part. Jeff TT

You really need to identify the actual leaking pipe before any advise can be given really, the high pressure pipe ( marked in red) has a foam sleave over it where its curves under, when they fail they leak under the foam, pull the foam back ans see if any red fluid runs out, changing that particular pipe is tricky if you not used to working on zeds/cars and would be prepared to get a bit messy! Jeff

You really need to identify the actual leaking pipe before any advise can be given really, the high pressure pipe ( marked in red) has a foam sleave over it where its curves under, when they fail they leak under the foam, pull the foam back ans see if any red fluid runs out, changing that particular pipe is tricky if you not used to working on zeds/cars and would be prepared to get a bit messy! Jeff

Check out the power steering pipe layout in the diagram below and identify which one it is, if it is the high pressure house (marked in red ) then remove and take to a hydraulics repair agent in your area should be around the £35 mark, if however it is the return pipe then still go to a hydraulics repair agent and get some high pressure rubber pipe and cut out the metal and replace with flexible hose is so much easier but use good wide banded clips, and the window module is easy to fix see the link further down for that. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?137368-Repair-window-module Hope that helps Jeff TT

Check out the power steering pipe layout in the diagram below and identify which one it is, if it is the high pressure house (marked in red ) then remove and take to a hydraulics repair agent in your area should be around the £35 mark, if however it is the return pipe then still go to a hydraulics repair agent and get some high pressure rubber pipe and cut out the metal and replace with flexible hose is so much easier but use good wide banded clips, and the window module is easy to fix see the link further down for that. [ATTACH=CONFIG]83993[/ATTACH] http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?137368-Repair-window-module [ATTACH=CONFIG]83994[/ATTACH] Hope that helps Jeff TT

Agree, very erm ..... Blue Peter style. Jeff

Use the one built into the rear screen. Jeff

Rather removing the pump just remove the feed pipe to the hicas and fit on to the return on the reservoir, work just as well and you will have time for a cup of tea as well.....nice. Jeff TT

The engine cont fuse is part of the alternator charge circuit and as you have found the alternator output is the issue, check the connections spades where the fuse fits as a bad connection there can lead to the same issue, failing that it could be the internal alternator rectifier or even a corroded power cable connector on the alternator. Jeff TT

Black relay/ fuse box on passenger inner wing under bonnet, check the lid for the fuse marked engine cont. ( RED 10 AMP ) even if looks ok replace anyway, forms part of the alternator exciter circuit, a blown fuse can cause low charge voltage and the warning lights issue you have. Jeff TT

Common issue, fuse box in drivers foot well, top row third fuse from left red 10 amp, when this is blown the side lights and dip do not work, a default main beam operates so lights are available in an emergency, if the fuse blows again you may have shorted something and will need to retrace your work. Jeff TT

Amazing Audi led main beam technology, check out the link and video, you cannot fail to be impressed. Jeff TT http://www.audi.com/com/brand/en/vorsprung_durch_technik/content/2013/10/audi-a8-in-a-new-radiant-light.html

A nice explaination below of what you guys are talking about for us lesser mortals... Jeff TT "Draw through vs. Blow through MAF There are two ways of configuring a mass air meter in a centrifugally supercharged or turbocharged vehicle. Here are the pluses and minuses of each setup. Draw Through A draw through meter, as MAFs come from the factory, is less affected by bends in the pipes and reducers near the MAF. Remember that the Mass air meter relies on laminar airflow to get a good signal. A draw though meter must use a bypass valve – it bleeds off boost and recirculates pressurized air from in front of the blower/turbo to behind it. It must be done this way because the air has already been metered. If a bypass is dumped to atmosphere it will result in huge rich spikes that will kill drivability. A draw through meter is a longer way from the engine. Add in an intercooler and there may be an unacceptable delay in what the mass air meter reads and how the engine responds. On a turbo vehicle, the turbos natural ‘spin down’ will create backwash through the MAF that cannot be tuned around. In worst cases, you must convert to blow through to get rid of this. On a draw through setup you need to recirculate the bypass air when using it with a turbo or centrifugal supercharger. Designing a decent bypass can sometimes be tough - you need to route the return air line as far away from the MAF as possible, and even situate the pipe so it is blowing air at an angle away from the MAF and maybe add an air shield inside the pipe. With an intercooler, you'd need to most likely add two bypasses, one ahead of the IC and another after the IC. This can result in a plumbing nightmare. Bypasses must be big enough to handle all the air. Bypass problems will result in horrible drivability that usually cannot be tuned around - if you suspect a bypass problem, graph a log of MAF volts where the problem occurs. If it looks like a seismograph during an earthquake - that's your problem. Naturally if you run a twin screw or roots style blower, or are NA, your only option is draw through and on those systems, they work just great. Blow Through A blow through meter is more affected by pipe size and bends. This is especially true when using a draw through style MAF, i.e. with a housing in blow through. This is much less true when using an '05 style slot MAF as they are a lot more forgiving of bends. A blow through setup vents after the blower, but before the MAF, so the unmetered air can be dumped to atmosphere with a BOV, not requiring extra plumbing to bypass the air. This makes plumbing much easier. Overall, blow through systems work well. When properly designed, they do NOT reduce the range of the MAF as internet misinformation leads some people to believe. Contrary to internet misinformation, a properly designed blow through system will be easier to tune and live with than a draw through setup. A properly designed blow through setup has the same diameter piping as the MAF’s diameter in straight sections if you are using a draw through style (factory style MAF with a housing). If the MAF is 90mm, use 4” pipe. It may not be practical to use 4” pipe for the entire inlet, but what must not happen is to use reducers right at the MAF or have bends close to the MAF. Use as long a section of the same size pipe as can fit, then do any reducing away from the MAF. The BEST alternative for a blow through MAF is to use an '05 Mustang style slot MAF, and in 3, 3.5 or 4" tube. The larger the tubing the more range the MAF has but it also has less low end resolution. Using a 'performance' style MAF such as a Professional Mass Air Systems HPX MAF will increase range even further. Note that even with a Diablosport MAF.ia the '05 style MAFs will NOT output to battery voltage, they have a limit of 6v. Using the HPX will negate this disadvantage as will going to larger diameter tubing for higher HP vehicles. It's not a great idea to use an HPX MAF setup in a 4" tune on a lower HP car, it doesn't make it better to do this, just adds range at the expense of resolution. Always plan your MAF setup so that you will be using 80% of the theoretical range of the MAF."