JeffTT

One of those strange anomalies that exist in the world of cars, UK registered cars can be covered by expat insurance if you have an address in Portugal / Spain and is done through a broker that has offices in the UK, Portugal and Gibraltar too so it also covers the UK showing on the Insurance data base in the UK but is based upon primary use in Portugal, useful if we pop back in the car on visits, oh and much cheaper than UK only cover too ! Jeff

Ha ha.. Hello Jeff, Thank you for reporting us with your email spam issue, we would be investigating with the same and look to resolve the issues (if any) in your account. Kindly standby for more updates from our end. Kind Regards, Velnetweb Support http://www.velnetweb.co.uk

Oh here we go on the IT journey......... Ticket Created #131756 ........ will keep you updated on their IT prowess! Jeff

Funnily enough twe of my emails are via BT connect and they work fine with no issue, the one that keeps getting hit is one of the zedworld one`s these are through the website storage provider and they have previously let me down when their systems were hacked and our old website taken over, too an outside IT guy to identify the issue with their own server`s and tell them what to do!! been great since and my other three emails with them never been a problem, its not a biggy as we the email with the issue is not used on a regular basis now so I could stop fetching the mail, however I wonder if they will stack up on the server and cause another issue? suppose I might open a ticket with the server company see what they think? Jeff

Each mail has the following text or similar and each has an attachment ( oh yeh!) but the apparent address they have failed to be delivered to is different and they are really random sounding ones such as n4wz4c7m@n.wholesalejerseyssupports.com b.saito@soe.com b0nidsgk.8352188@nifs.com.au 1000010740_10007298@candabcseek.com and such like all of which look like fake mails anyhow? Jeff This message was created automatically by mail delivery software. A message that you sent has not yet been delivered to one or more of its recipients after more than 72 hours on the queue on server3.velnetweb.co.uk. The message identifier is: 1ZpG4T-002ksW-UG The subject of the message is: =?UTF-8?Q?New_state_transfer__F1KAKDA0?= The date of the message is: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 15:38:22 +0200 The address to which the message has not yet been delivered is: linda.wells@longandfoster.com No action is required on your part. Delivery attempts will continue for some time, and this warning may be repeated at intervals if the message remains undelivered. Eventually the mail delivery software will give up, and when that happens, the message will be returned to you.

Had an email from my broker ( below ) seems insurance set for a little hike (again) Jeff Dated: 22/10/2015 Dear Jeff We feel that as your brokers it is our duty to advise you of any major changes within the insurance industry that can have a financial impact on you. Following the Governments Summer Budget 2015 it was decided that they would be enforcing an increase in the current rate of insurance premium tax. In terms of the impact on you the customer it will mean that as from 1st November 2015 any policy subject to UK insurance premium tax will increase from the current rate of 6% to the new rate of 9.5%. This impact will see an increase of 3.5% in addition to any insurance rating changes. We will always endeavour to provide you the customer our most competitive premium on all insurance products but with a government enforced change this will mean an unavoidable premium increase at your next renewal date. If you wish to know further on these tax increases or the governments reasoning why this will help in crease revenue for the government please see the web link below: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/insurance-premium-tax-increase-to-standard-rate/insurance-premium-tax-increase-to-standard-rate Please rest assured our renewals team will be in contact in good time prior to your renewal to discuss your needs and any further questions you may have. Assuring you of our best intentions at all times and thanking you for your continued custom. Yours sincerely The ABBEYGATE Team

Give Jim at PowerZed will get it sorted for you.. http://www.powerzed.com Jeff

Groan..... been here before with one of our many emails I use, last time was getting 500 non delivery reports a day, as its an e-mail attached to a web address the host company flushed the server and blocked loads of Ip addresses, this was like a year ago an no problem until three days ago and my question are they complete fake non delivery reports, or is the email address been used to mass email and the non deliveries are due to spam alert from the receivers mail system? Jeff

This is a common issue but lucky a real easy one to fix, the tailgate needs holding down a bit tighter by the lock so when you pull the lever it pops up so releasing the latch. So you need to adjust the lock by removing the plastic cover inside the boot, the section between the two lights, this has two large plastic screw fixings, under this you will see the lock has three fixings, take a 10mm spanner and slacken them off, push the assembly down a bit and tighten up,screw the plastic cover back and close the lid and the lever should work fine then. Jeff

Ha, ha yes I have a super stable and solid Panasonic CF-52 Toughbook with XP on that is wizz fast and use it for my different forum surfing as it has the data base of pictures and tech thread write ups for here and the BMW forums I frequent unfortunately migrating it all across is not in my mind as I use my tablet for everything else as its all linked with my media centre etc. Jeff

manual TT prop length (spider to spider) 1st half... 606mm 2nd half... 508mm auto TT prop length (spider to spider) 1st half... 489mm 2nd half... 508mm manual NA prop length (spider to spider) 1st half... 606mm 2nd half... 539mm auto NA prop length (spider to spider) 1st half... 510mm 2nd half... 539mm distance between yokes NA... 71mm TT... 80mm

Anyone else think the site looks slightly to the right ? Jeff

Same engine as fitted in my baby, fits a bit better in mine though lol, but you cannot knock the challenge some people will take on quite impressive. Jeff

Jeff

Ok was getting nowhere quick with the built in e-bay report an item procedure that just takes you around and around with nowhere to actually say anything but just suggestions ?? Anyhow I though ok will send a message to the seller and to be fair he has answered three times!! take a look I have pasted them below, and he has changed the listing to zed specialist now....funny especially reply 2 Jeff Other: zedworld-parts sent a message about Nissan 300Zx Twinturbo Complete Engine!!!! Fresh Rebuild!!!!!!!!! #301766712751 It has been brought to our attention you are selling an engine for a Nissan 300zx and describing it as newly rebuilt by Zedworld. Well of course as I am Zedworld I know only too well that was not built by us, can you change your listing accordingly please. Reply 1 Anita 022013 wrote "No because I bought his engine and have been told it has been rebuild by zedworld. So I'm not going to lie " Reply 2 Anita 022013 wrote "I'm sure there are other zedworlds out there" Reply 3 Anita 022013 wrote I need to speak to the guy I bought it from if he has receipt then I shall change back the listing. But as of now it's been changed

Yes might just do that. Jeff

All via the e-mail scheduled invoicing as you were so busy with work and not in the UK, all supported by the many,many photo`s sent and the folder journal I supplied when the car was transported back to your house. Jeff

The engine is unknown to me, the description says it is a Zedworld built engine and it is not. The description also is less than clear about the receipt side of the build and anyone who knows me know`s how I document everything and keep copies on the data base. We only ever rebuilt engines into cars not as a supply only, we have come across the Zedworld name been used before to add kudos maybe, I suppose it could be a mistake somehow getting mixed up with another, but doubt it as the build suggests at least £3k worth of spends and would be sure you would want a receipt and remember who did it, Birmingham based seller, seems dodgy. Jeff

Anyone know who this is http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-300Zx-Twinturbo-Complete-Engine-Fresh-Rebuild-/301766712751?hash=item4642b29daf:g:mQwAAOSwo0JWHGZL I am not a happy bunny today after seeing this. Jeff

Yes that will do it. Jeff

So following on from the earlier thread about the master cylinder we now will deal with the front caliper`s which are by far the most troublesome part of the brake system. Lost count of the front caliper`s I dealt with in my time that were either seized partially or fully !! of the four pistons in each caliper it is very common for just one or two to be stuck fast and this is why the brakes seem to work but just not great, and given that many owners have already been told the brakes are rubbish on zeds it gets accepted. So the biggest problem with stuck pistons is getting them out especially in DIY situation, however there is a way you can do it, slowly but it works, but first off buy a new seal kit from the big red brake company ( ebay) they have them all in stock usually and cost around £30 for 8 new seals, 6 new dust covers and 6 new snap rings, they even add in two new bleed nipple covers. So take a look at the pictures what you will need to do is set your self up with a couple of G clamps, a bleed tube and a hose lock off clamp, also a big tray. The method is simple enough, to use the brake system power to force them little buggers out of the caliper, now this can be done on your own but its much better to have two as you will see in a moment when dealing with particular stubborn one`s. 1) Ok fast forward to jacked up wheel off caliper off and disc off, now bolt the disc back onto the hub to hold it, lock off three pistons. 2) Unclip the outer dust seal snap rings, most likely these will be ripped and part of the problem, spray the inner seal face and piston edges with WD40 or similar. 3) So pressing the brake pedal is designed to push out the now single free piston, if it is seized it will require a lot of pushing, sometimes you will need to start the engine to help. Take it in several stages and it will come slowly and if not, do not worry, open the bleed nipple and put the pipe on into the tray, lock off the brake pipe clamp, this is important so no pressure goes back up to the master cylinder because it can flip the seals on it. With the nipple open and the hose locked off now use a pry bar against the piston to push it back into the caliper a bit, close the nipple and release the lock off and get the assistant to press again, a combination of pushing and pressing each time locking off the hose and opening the nipple will eventually release even the hardest piston. 4) So when it pops out and it will a fair bit of fluid will come out so hence the tray, put the hose clamp on to stop this. You can now deal with the piston, it will look corroded and dirty but all it needs is cleaning off, that little bit of rust film is enough to make it stick in the seals. 5) Cleaning the piston is quite easy, get a damp cloth and wipe over, then with some T cut, its very slightly abrasive of course and will work magic on them, after they are cleaned up wipe it clean and put aside. 6) So now the harder bit, looking inside of the caliper there is seal that needs flipping out, use a small screwdriver VERY carefully no scratching the cylinder bore, stay within the seal recess. Once removed clean out with a clean cloth and almost certainly the leading edge will need rust cleaning off, this I normally do with some wet and dry paper, say 800 grit, this is a bit boring and makes your fingers ache but hey ho all in a good cause when all is clean and included in that is the recess that the dust cover snap rings fit in it time to rebuild. 7) So the seal needs dipping in some fresh brake fluid and dropped into place, this is quite easy and whilst your in there give the cylinder walls a bit of fresh fluid too. The piston needs some fresh fluid on too and away you go, pushing it into place can be a bit tricky as it needs to be well positioned to slot in, opening the fluid nipple with the clamp on will allow the air to escape as you push it back, do not push it fully back as you need to get the dust seal on and it is a pain if the piston is in too far. The snap rings can be troublesome but I acquired a knack eventually and really its a case of just doing it, it will try to ping off but once in place push the piston back and move the G clamp to that position, lock off the nipple and start the process all over again. 8) Whilst you doing the work keep an eye on the master cyliner as you don`t want that to drop too low, when one complete caliper is ready, bleed that one fully before moving on to the next one. So there you have it, what you will find is brakes that now feel like they are connected to the car and work as they should, of course you can get rebuilt calipers off e-bay for around £150 but what`s the fun in that eh?? Happy bleeding......... Jeff

Yes they actually tend to wear quite evenly unless of course some debris travels down the side of the seals and scratches the bore as you mention but do not confuse the swirl effect marks caused by the seal rotating as it travels down the bore a few thousand times a year!! Jeff Sinking pedal mainly from fluid by-pass at the main seal and increased pedal travel from air getting in at the back seal, you can check the back seal quite easy, get someone to press hard on the pedal and hold it whilst you watch the fluid in the reservoir, then release and hold down hard again do this a few times, if you see any air bubbles rise through the fluid the back seal is drawing air in. Jeff

Great explanation of how boost controllers do their magic and how to set them up. http://www.serioussolutions.com/evo/ebc.htm Jeff

Strange I can see them from here ?? just re-saved the post any better? Jeff

Ok a little light reading for Thursday, we all know prevention is the best way forward with service items and but many times those little warnings are too subtle or just missed as little annoyances or the character of the car and the 300zx brakes is a case in point. So two points, the master cyliner and the front calipers these are the two area`s where most problems occur in the breaking system and are often overlooked as the cause at the time, of course ensuring no air is in teh system is a biggy too. So we will deal with the master cyliner in this thread and the calipers in the next one, the bmc is so easy to service ( kit part number shown in picture for Twin Turbo ) assuming your cyliner body is in good order its a case of removing it from the car which is a 20 minute job, probably best if you use a turkey baster or similar to remove as much fluid as possible, and have lots of paper towel around keeping everything covered as brake fluid and paint do not get on!! be warned do not spill it on you paintwork if so immediately wash down with soapy water. So once the bmc is on the bench is a simple case of releasing the lock pin and end stop and tapping the unit down on the table until the bits fall out. Once out clean everything with brake cleaner and dry off, inspect the inside of the cylinder and if all good wet the new seals down with fresh brake fluid and refit to the piston in the same order and orientation they came off, ( make a drawing before hand or take a photo to refer to later) then refit to the cylinder and lock it off. Refit to the car and fill up with fluid, you only need to bleed the two nipples in on the ABS unit in the boot not at the wheels unless you want to change the whole fluid, however if you have a rare non abs zed ( some non turbo`s ) you will have to bleed at each wheel, even with new cylinder seals fitted I recommend you do not push the brake pedal all the way to the bottom when bleeding, place a small piece of wood or similar under the pedal to prevent this. The bleeding should not take long as the lines go direct to the ABS and are of only small bore, of course you could buy a new unit but at near £200 this can save a lot of petrol money at a little of £20 for the seal kit and your master cyliner will be in good order and ready for another service. Jeff