JeffTT

Well despite having leaks and corrosion so close to the output seal part of the servo they rarely seem to have a problem as a direct cause, however have changed a few servo`s where zeds display what seems a low brake pedal despite bleeding and new pads etc. in fact the output rod between the servo and master cylinder is adjustable and there is a setting in the manual for the correct level, this would suggest that Nissan assumed wear would take place in the servo and this can be used to take in for that wear and set the servo rod base position correctly. ( see diagram ) of course sometimes the wear is more than can be adjusted for and then replacement is the only answer. Jeff

Well done there, done many of these over the years and it does get easier to do, but rather it be a conversion between series its more a UK / Jap conversion, well on earlier cars anyhow, the real tricky bit is the slot where the seat belt passes through the door card half way up at the back, lucky there is a plastic section to help cover the cuts. Jeff

Tried it both ways, the ferry seems sooo slow but you it cuts out a lot of driving for sure, still around 900km through spain to Portugal and super quiet open roads, through the tunnel, France and on is ok but required a couple of overnight stops one in France one in Spain to enjoy it fully and prevent crashing !! Jeff - - - Updated - - - Ahem thanks you.

Coincides with trips back to Blightly so never more than 180 days. Jeff

Rhd drive, Gibraltar insurance, UK MOT, UK road tax. saves around 10k on the deal!! Portuguese taxation on cars is crippling, looked for a UK reg lhd M5 with the spec I wanted and non about, makes little difference with the quietness of the roads anyhow, and the motorways are even quieter!! Jeff

5.0 litre V10 F1 style howl !! Showing of her style in the sun !!

:clap::clap::clap::clap:

Defo German but not a Porche !

Nah quicker !

A pair of new tyres for my new ride, any guesses what for? Jeff

Makes sense. Jeff

The codes below you are getting look to be a combination of live and old codes, the det crcuit will need attention once you have sorted your present problem but don`t worry it will not be effecting anything yet. Code 12 AFM ( maf ) Code 13 Water temp sensor Code 34 Det sensor circuit The water temp sensor code is most likely a bad connection and caused when working in that area or running the engine with it not connected, check / clean and refit the sensor connector. The afm code could be the original afm or the one you have fitted now is faulty or you ran the engine with the afm disconnected. So best thing is clear all codes easy way to leave the battery disconnected for an hour or so, then run another code test without starting the engine, you will then see what you have, if clear run the engine and do another test see what has come back. My guessing is the second maf you have tried is also faulty as the 2,500 rpm cut off is afm every time, when you have resolved the issue with the running look at your det sensor circuit as this will keep the power down until resolved. Jeff

Can I ask if you have "just" bought a 300zx why you need a rolling road tune or remap? Jeff

"Here's the read out.. Ignore the temperature reading as it remained the same once it was up to running temperature." Ok your text under the screen shot was a little ambiguous sort of sounded like the temp stayed the same not the problem but can see what you meant now, try running the engine with the AFM disconnected see if the running issue changes, also check the egr is not sticking and hot wire afm`s generally do not get on well with oiled filters as it can propagate through the system and contaminate the wire. Jeff

Ok NemisizX, you have done what many zed owners do and understandably given some of the innovations the z32 had on board in 1990 and that is when faced with a running problem is to go technical too quickly. The advise so far elsewhere and above of which some is not too accurate are starter points but you have some basic engine work to do to resolve this very simple issue, the diagnostic software is great and without it it can be near impossible to find some faults easily. But the results can often be misleading to the untrained eye and even some who propose to be "in the know" knowing what it is NOT telling you is often more important than what it is, along with various readings been effected by anyone of the other "bad" readings and can lead to confusion, experience with the ConZult or similar systems takes a lot to fully understand and how to act on what you see so don`t feel bad your not really understanding it yet, takes about 10 years or so so stick with it (lol) So first off before any other work or diagnostic is done you need to check why the temperature is so low, first check the temp sensor connection and if no problem then you will need to change the thermostat! the temperature reading is shouting at you LOOK AT ME!! at 64 deg your still in the cool engine cycle, the ecu is running the engine according to the water temp along with other values. No point doing anything more until the temp sensor / thermostat has been changed, with such low temperature registered in the ecu even if you had a working det sensor the engine would stay in safety boost. Once the temp issue has been resolved and you have a tick over temp of around 80 deg only then can you check the running of the engine on the ConZult, things such as the tps look to be set ok, just check the closed throttle position and do an ignition timing check using a strobe light, this is the ONLY way to check the timing correctly as the CoNzult does NOT report actual engine set timing just whet the timing should be based on other parameters. Spark plugs can make a world of difference to the running on this engine and for the small cost would suggest you change them also along with air and oil filters if due a change, oh and do not write off the series 1 ptu just yet, although these have a history of failing the issue is caused by internal heat generated by bad connection and excessive current draw melting soldering connections, no maintenance cleaning of the connections is what the real problem is, the series 2 ptu`s however fail ( and yes they do ) from actual component failure inside. Aside from the running issue above the det sensor fault code suggests the det circuit is at fault and this could be the det sensor, short loom cable or the cable back to the ecu. You can if you wish disconnect it and use a meter to check the cable back to the ecu but most times its the sensor and usually melted at that, nothing wrong with a well serviced and well set up engine having a by pass fitted, tried and tested and would suggest there are not that many still with the original sensor fitted and working anyhow, more I image driving around in safety boost with unsuspecting owners, so rest assured the det sensor does not cause misfire or running issues and will not be picking anything up at tickover. Link below is one of my tech thread about the thermostat and the issue with cold running, worth a read. Jeff http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?126426-Thermostat-tech-tip&highlight=thermostat

In general the twin filter induction kits do not suffer from the problem the same way as the short filter option. Jeff

The issue is caused by the fitting of particular short filter induction kits and best option is to fabricate a shield so direct water laden air is diverted and not blown directly onto the filter when driving forward, if you have a vented front panel consider blocking it off or changing back to standard, they can cause more trouble than good when fitted in conjunction with a short induction kit. The reason the problem occurs is the water changes the temperature of the hot air wire and thus giving false information about what air is entering the engine, the ecu trys to fuel for this and of course makes a bad job of it. Also worth remembering, repeated events that wet the maf will cause it to fail eventually, hopefully on this occasion when it dry`s out all will be fine. Jeff

Defo small plate !! Jeff

Was you driving in rain or road spray ? do you have an induction kit? if so very likely the maf was getting wet and causing fuelling issue. Jeff

E-mail sent matey, and yes enjoying the rest.. Jeff

lol !!

Sent you a private message with the solution, not for public view of course.... Jeff

Zedworld V Automodz clash of the Titans your fooking joking lads surely ?:thumbdown: the guy was changing his nappy a few years ago on zeds !! when he has another 15 years working both continuously and exclusively on zeds alone with 2k + regular customers then maybe but in the meantime avoid drawing comparisons please its offensive .... jeez sometimes !! :smash: Jeff

Correct advise of course but in over 1500+ documented 300zx cambelts I have changed tightening the lower pulley FT (Fooking tight ) has never failed. Jeff

No need for a torque wrench bud, to tighten the pulley bolt using a socket and wrench simply tighten till the engine starts to turn and then use a rubber mallet to nip it, with a few quick blows, in fact you can also use this method the other way around to undo the bolt which most of time works. Jeff Note: you will need a 3 leg puller to get the pulley off the crank do not hit it off as bits will break off it.