JeffTT

The chip is a standard read write eprom with a particular map on it, this can be written over if the garage has the right equipment to do live mapping make any adjustments they see fit and save it to the chip, the bonus you have is the chip will be fitted in a carrier so easy to remove and refit after any changes been made, unlike the Nissan one that is soldered directly to the board. Unlike modern cars no re-flashing can be done via the diagnostic port on a 300ZX so the ecu requires removing and chip be removed as mentioned above. If not they will only be able to fit another generic chip that will most likely be the same, do you have any particular running problems that prompted you to get it checked? be careful, make sure the garage are knowledgeable about the 300zx engine and how to check basic set up`s before messing with the ecu. As a guide a standard diagnostic check and set up should cost around £35 + any parts, if they charge more they are having you over. Jeff

Zedworld supplied chips were based on the widely available map made famous by JWT, no mystery to that and that map will be fitted to many, many zeds be it in Zedworld guise or another, often referred to as a generic chip. The map is based on 15 year old information and it is possible of course a new slant on it with improved monitoring equipment can bring its own improvement but the main thing with any chip or mapping is keeping your engine tune in place. Often we saw in the Zedworld workshop zeds fitted with our chip some years before had changed hands and came back to us years later for service and find timing needed adjusting or air leaks had occurred as well as other performance reduction issues, these been sorted during the service would amaze the owner with the performance upgrade but it was not the chip that been changed just realigning the tune did the trick. Many of the zed fitted with Jap import chips such as Central 20, Veilside and many more are set for Jap spec high octane fuel and can potentially run lean on UK fuel so boost has to be adjusted accordingly, agree our chips run higher fuel at higher boost but for me that`s a good thing as it allows for differences in engines, but what I can say is every mapped zed I see on rollers or on the road gunning it hard are black smoking, so they are over fueling much higher, black smoke was not a typical product on my ecu upgrades. Proven generic chips are not a bad thing Noel in fact made a small business as Turbonoz on E-bay for years selling exactly them and still does ( in different names), of course everyone has an opinion and maybe as Zedworld we did at least 300 chip upgrades I can say that the amount that were not happy I can count on one hand. But then of course the new players that have come on the scene in recent year`s need a benchmark to sell their products from then I am happy to be that benchmark, let`s see how long before for the haters pitch in now Jeff

Oil preference is often a personal matter and asking advise or the opinion of others can help make a definitive decision but asking for advise or suggestions based on others handful of oil changes barely touches the surface of opinion, having personally done at least 1,000 oil changes on 300zx alone I feel strongly that fully synthetic is too expensive and not required for the average zed owner, especially given it should be drained out 4k miles later, and to one owner who suggested elsewhere he would do an oil change without changing the oil filter as it was not that old I despair?? Love the " no leaks at all except a very minor occasional drip from the rear crankshaft seal" comment, that means you do have an oil leak then, be it minor or not! and will only get worse over time, fully synthetic oil contains higher cleaning additives that can and do clean the engine out, however it also cleans out the passive bits of sludge that are keeping questionable seals from leaking, same happens when a zed been running plain water in the coolant system for years goes brown, clean it out and add antifreeze and wait for the leaks to start! Jeff

Depends on the condition of all of the engine seals and gaskets, not many original engine zeds with no oil leaks at all, 10W -40 semi is just fine and given that you should be thinking in the order of 4k miles to 5k miles oil changes then the prolongled service life that fully synth gives is of no consequence, 4k mile oil and filter changes are like money in the bank for your engine. Jeff

Your confusing viscosity with molecular size, fully synthetic will leak through gaps non synthetic will not. Jeff

Fully synthetic is too thin for Zed engines, potential to promote oil leaks and reduces oil pressure in 25 year old engines, 10w-40 semi synthetic is the best option. Jeff

Yes they are, unfortunately the copy ones from China just do not work, just checked on E-bay and the company that was selling them here is no where to be found now, so figures it did not work out. Best bet is to see if you can beg or borrow one to try of another zed owner, failing that buy one second hand that is tested and warranted, usually go for around £100 used here in the UK, and If that fixes the issue which I am sure it will its not too bad, at least then you can return the copy one for a refund hopefully. Jeff

Aha ! after market ones, especially if bought off E-bay do not work! Jeff

:thumbup:

Eh?

Whoops ! caught out by customer dash cam! http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3404946/Subaru-owner-s-anger-garage-staff-pothole-video.html Jeff

Ok your codes again still show the det sensor as before, you could try inserting a "by pass resister" of 1 meg ohm ( see pic below ) as a test to clear that code ( will need battery removed again or codes cleared via ConZult) Code 12 again the maf sensor suggests as before a fault air flow meter or a fault with the loom to it. Code 34 Det sensor Code 12 Maf sensor Regards Jeff

Empty road drive home, down hill to the cost nice curves and plenty straights too........ nice. Jeff

Yeh really good atmosphere and petrol head enthusiasm has no language barrier! Jeff Noooo need more private practise first!! have to meet up for a drink when your over here! Jeff Great track, been lucky to make some good friends who get me in the pit`s for most events, the drive back home from the track is good fun too! Jeff

No they do are not a common failing. Jeff

Roll on the full Summer though, was a cool 23c but felt like 10c in the shade!! Jeff

Some track action:

Sunday morning meet at the Autódromo Internacional do Algarve (Portimao Circuit ) lots of fun cars and lots of spills and action all in fun no-one takes it too serious unlike the competitiveness of the UK. 20 Euro a car for 4 sessions of 5 laps each !! the track owners are not greedy and actively encourage car enthusiasts to meet there and to hang out or have some track time, the drift area is free and can be used all day if you want. Anyhow some pics: Jeff

Try filling the master cylinder, then bleed from the two points on the ABS unit in the boot on the right hand side under the plastic hump. You may be lucky and that brings it back, you will need to investigate though where the leak was as its after the abs it will just keep leaking and the pedal will not come back, kind of try it and see. If it turns out the master cylinder is stuffed and no other leak then changing the cylinder is easy and bleeding from the ABS unit will be required, having said that if the car has sat around its worth flushing out anyhow. Jeff

Is the cylinder full or empty? Jeff

When you say no brakes what is the exact symptoms pedal to the floor or to hard to press? Jeff