JeffTT

Nice one,the bleeding should not take long and remember its just at the ABS unit only. Jeff

Interesting info here from NGK themselves rather than pub talk>> http://www.ngk.com.au/spark-plugs/technical-information/heat-range-explanation So running the engine through different road conditions and then removing the plugs for analysis will give you the real time answer for your engine rather than guessing or using unqualified opinion`s, as every engine is different it may be a case of trying options to see what gives the best result for you. Jeff

Agree with Jimmer nice and easy, do them in your lunch time, will keep the driveability as stock but with less movement from worn bushes, and MOT compliant, e-bay has many listed but have used these ones many times and only £35 free delivery or collect from your nearest argos. Jeff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-200SX-300ZX-SKYLINE-RED-ANODIZED-REAR-SUBFRAME-C-COLLAR-BUSH-REPAIR-KIT-/230860986909?hash=item35c0631a1d:m:mSjZ30UBFLol4RhrE89ayEQ

Ok, if you want to just check the rear of the cylinder there is enough movement in the brake pipes without removing, the master cylinder is not directly connected to the servo, there is a small push rod that comes from the servo and pushes against the cylinder piston, if you decide to remove the cylinder, when refitting you only need to bleed at the abs unit in the boot not the calipers. A couple of my threads from a few years back may help: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?170588-Brakes-not-working&highlight=brake+master+cylinder and if you decide to rebuild here is some info: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?182918-Brake-tech-thread-Thursday-!&highlight=brake+master+cylinder Jeff

Was the master cylinder left empty ? rear seal may of dried out?easy to check undo the two 12mm nuts and ease forward and look to see if wet behind the cylinder / servo area. Silly question maybe, is your auto or manual, only reason I ask is if it is a manual it could be the slave cylinder leaking not the brakes, long shot but you never know. Jeff

Normally the ABS unit should be bled first as it is the first item after the master cylinder, having said that provided enough fluid was bled though at the 4 calipers then the abs will most likely be bled ok, if not it is ok to just bleed it after. The abs unit should not run continuously unless there is a problem with the control circuit, and especially with the ignition off, as I said on your wanted thread its sound like the motor relay is maybe sticking or the abs ecu has an issue. Jeff

Spot on !! Jeff

Just to confirm after doing around 1500 zed cambelts, I never once needed to remove the starter to release the crank pulley. Of course I had access to heavy air tools but way before I picked the air gun up I would try the rubber hammer method, 27mm socket on the pulley bolt, a strong ratchet handle, and now you basically support the ratchet and use the rubber hammer to crack the bolt, this can take several hits but most of the time this will be enough. If not the starter motor method is your friend, by the time you are ready to undo the pulley bolt the cas unit will be unplugged so no danger, set a breaker bar or similar against the floor or chassis rail dependant on the breaker bar length with the same 27mm socket on the pulley bolt, as the engine will turn clockwise as you look at it the bar need to be set it to hold the bolt so it will undo. Now flick the starter, not a full turn a flick, usually a couple of flicks will do it, the amount of torque the starter has is massive and with the quick flick will release the bolt. Ok there is the odd one that has rusted on and air tools can be the only answer or the starter motor removal, but never had to do that. Note: To tighten the bolt up when refitted, the rubber hammer will be absolutely fine. Enjoy the job, always good to get to know our car, take it slowly and take pictures, always nice for your service history. Jeff

Yes I guess !! nice to keep my hand in as such, mostly just favours for Portuguese neighbours but still will never be short of orange`s now !! Jeff Cool, you miss your time in Spain ? Jeff

Yes brought many of them with me, but bigger things like the air compressor and engine hoist etc. was sold and bought new here due to the transport costs. Jeff - - - Updated - - - For sure buddy, Jeff

Ok not zed related but take heart zed owners everyone has issues with their cars at some time, at least your zed looks great even when its broken!! So seems another neighbour at a near property had an issue with his wife`s Fiat Punto 1.2, overheating very quickly and a local mecânico had said must be the head gasket without even opening the bonnet ?? His wife is dogs mad and the car is used to ferry around 6 dogs at a time so believe me it needed the window leaving open !!! jeez quite how they drive it with the pong!!! So anyhow I quickly established that there was next to no water in and so easy job first was add water, not long and the sound of trickling water and soon had my attention,found a leaking core plug on the back of the block, right behind the starter motor....nice. Stripping out took and hour or so as had to take the inlet manifold off as well in the end to get the core plug out, a clean up, new plug ( yes just the leaking one ) and sealant and all looked great, so did a water test and all good so reassembled and refilled the coolant with clean water only. So yes no antifreeze, the car had been run for 10 years with no antifreeze ( hence failed core plug ) and when I spoke with the owner he said it does not freeze here in the Algarve so did not put any in !!:crying: so he did not understand about the anti corrosion properties ?? Anyhow it is one of those moments now where adding antifreeze now is likely to cause more problems as it would find an other leaks quite quickly, so went against the grain but filled with just water?? seen it drive down the lane the other day, full of barking dogs kicking and up dust in its wake from the power but clearly running ok... Enjoy the grandness of the 1.2 litre engine !! Jeff

Actually quoted a manual heater control for a car sales once due to a broken heat slider knob, Nissan UK wanted £800 !!!!!!!!! Jeff

Yes sounds like the diff cooler, one word of caution, the cooler is alloy and the outlet pipes will have started to fracture, in most cases just trying to remove the rubber pipe will cause the outlet to snap off flush to the cooler. This is no real biggy to be honest as the cooler is fed via a small motor situated just a little further forward than the cooler under a plastic guard, this motor is set to operate at a temperature determined by the sensor in the back of the diff. Now the temp setting for this is so high that I have never seen a road zed with oil in the cooler when removed, in fact they are mostly completely dry and clean. The pipes on the other hand do leak as they sit lower and unless you absolutely sure you want to keep it ( Why ?) then link it out across the two outlets on the diff and remove the cooler and the motor, as mentioned by Andrew only UK zeds have them not the imports and from my experience diff failure is higher on UK cars than imports for which I cannot explain fully but just know from the what was my workshop jobs. Jeff

Yes and yes, horses for courses I guess, that said, sure we have both seen some soldering nightmares too eh? Jeff

Mmm... but if you snipped the yellow cable and put a ring connector on it and it would fit back under the speedo screw, or solder in a link cable, personally as the pulse voltage / current is so low I do not like bullet connectors as they can tarnish over time and become high resistance to low voltage or just be not a good connection, good soldering however is neat. But I do see the bullet connector method can be accessed quickly without speedo cluster removal to return back to kph, as long as the +12v and -12v is taken from the loom also, was a pain I found when removing a cluster to find when the main connectors were undone there was delimiter cables connected to both the speedo cluster and the loom. Jeff

Covered many times..... check the link: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?128022-power-window-repair-(inside-out-feature)&highlight=Window Jeff

You know where my "targa drain tech" threads are I assume?? Jeff

Be surprised if the trim is the leak problem as the glass sits on a deep layer of window bonding, common boot lid leak is from the wiper arm grommet and and after market spoilers, the boot floor can get wet from leaks around the rear lights. Jeff

The original has to be cut out carefully making sure room is made to accommodate the new rubber, it can be a little tricky to get right but the rubber trim ends up looking better than the original and is slightly wider so any paint issues at the edges are covered. The new seal has a barbed protrusion that is inserted into the gap left between the body and glass, it hook`s in, it also buts up to the top corner trims quite nicely, there are several designs that can be used see below, I have used the fourth one a few times, some you might need to adapt a little, I warm it up slightly and use a small amount of sikaflex on the corners, and a small line run elsewhere, insert the seal and once happy with the fit put masking tape over it every 12 inches and leave over night. Jeff

If fitting original Nissan trim the glass needs removing, to fit the universal rubber one it does not. Jeff

Be very cautious here, you are quite correct SE did use the bleed of method as you mention, however have found many, many of SE tuned zeds had standard chip still fitted with raised boost but retarded timing to prevent detonation, kind a backward way of getting what seems like more power but not good. Check to see if the map / chip is ok, check the timing and then if all good add the boost jets. Jeff

We used to use these guys for customers cars and a great job quickly and affordable, from memory around £250 + vat inc remote locking and interior sense, anti hijack and panic, good systems, if you speak to Raff at the Birmingham branch mention me and Zedworld will give you a good price. http://www.motorguards.co.uk/ Jeff Ps, if your really need to count the pennies and you do not need a Thatcham certificate for your insurance there are some cracking alarms on ebay with lots of features for under fifty quid !!

Lol Jeff

Given the abundance of good used rear calipers just get another set, they rarely seize like that. If you do want to repair yours however here is a guide how to get out seized pistons, the link is for front calipers with four pistons but the same method can be used for the rear. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?182926-Brake-tech-thread-Thursday-parte-dois&highlight=brake+calipers Jeff