JeffTT

Confused who the heck is RoseGonzales ^^^^ ??? Jeff

Nothing too exciting on first look but this eleven year old Ferrari-612-Scaglietti would seriously kick ass even today, the spec is impressive, randomly spotted when in the local DIY store Leroy Merlin ( like a B & Q ) love the fact the guy has a boot the size of glove box going to a DIY store !! ENGINE TYPE: DOHC 48-valve V-12, aluminum block and heads, port fuel injection DISPLACEMENT: 351 cu in, 5748cc Power (SAE net): 533 bhp @ 7250 rpm Torque (SAE net): 434 lb-ft @ 5250 rpm TRANSMISSIONS: 6-speed manual, 6-speed manual with automated shifting and clutch PERFORMANCE RATINGS (MFR'S EST): Zero to 62 mph: 4.2 sec Standing 1/4-mile: 12.3 sec Top speed (drag limited): 196 mph Jeff

Nut is a separate part number 01223-00281 price is £1.20 Jeff

Pcv valve is large size compared to the water pipe so not sure what you mean, any more pics? See the pic below with the large pipe disconnected from the pcv. Jeff

Love it !! You know where I am if you need any help !! Jeff

Don`t worry they will be fine, its the difference between theory and real life, never had a turbo fail from over heat yet, seen as many zeds before me had the same water delete done at SE Nissan and the like its kinda proven. Jeff

Left and right bolt. - - - Updated - - - Na not really !! ha ha ............ original part number and possible later part number. Jeff

Karaoke was the deal breaker for me sorry !! lol Jeff

Initially I would release the boots( cable ties or wire wraps ) and empty them of any fluid, then refit with cable ties and leave them a while, maybe check them again in a few weeks time, it might be a small leak just accumulated over time and if your not having to keep topping up the fluid regularly then would leave it be. Jeff

Should be able to fit 8 bit ecu into a previously 16 bit zed, done it a few times with no codes or issues. Jeff

OEM Nissan 300ZX Tension Rod Bolt Part no 54475-15U00 > 54475-35F10 Actually only a tenner or so, might be worth get one then and cut yours after all. Jeff

First off its a specific bolt made for that job, the only bolt you can get to replace it is a genuine one, secondly DON`T CUT THE BOLT ! If you have not already removed the whole assembly from the car do so, undo the two 14 mm bolts up into the chassis rail, and the two 17 mm into the member under the radiator and now it is on the floor its is easier to deal with. Rather than beat out the bolt, you need to turn the bolt, you will need some kind of vice to put it in, drown the thing in WD40 and get that bolt turning with a breaker bar, it will release, never had one not release before. If you do want to remove it from the car you cannot get a socket on the head of the bolt due to the inter-cooler location but a really good ring spanner would and give it some heavy clouts with a hammer to break the rust and may work but not so certain. Once removed the bolt will want a good clean and grease before using. Jeff

Yes its a different scene to back then, there was a huge amount of import zeds arriving daily back then, they are way more rare now and as the cheaper one`s fall by the wayside the good quality sorted ones will soon become modern classic`s, not quite there yet though. Jeff

Welcome to the forum James lots of help and advise available here so get subscribed it will be the best money you can spend on your zed, and my first recommendation given your location is stay away from Nottingham, has some right doggy characters there..... lol Jeff

After seeing BambooJoe thread about crashing his zed it reminded me of the biggest body repair we were part of some years back, thought a recap would be cool and Bamboojoe will look at it and think his is minor in comparison......enjoy Jeff Needed some straight mental to work with so to the donor scrap zed........ Quick cut and shut ( eek !! ) some paint and a polish ..........Done !!

Change it, you will be amazed, even with a non vibrating prop the difference is very noticeable. Jeff

Yes agree sometimes a little fun makes up for life`s downers..! Will see what suppliers prefer also, maybe get some traders here on board too (lol)

Been thinking, since I do not do Zedworld guessing competitions any more (as not working in the UK) nothing to stop me taking to all of my old suppliers to see if I can get some post Zedworld discounts or maybe even the odd part or vouchers ?? Thinking maybe get them on side first, and then put some format together that is based around both hard tech questions and some less tech questions for newbies, making it subscribed members only who can join in, I could come up with some ideas based upon that and use my now free-time to work it out. All of course within forum rules and with consent naturally, just need some feed back guys if it has any interest I guess. Jeff

Ok guys this is how forums should be, this is a shout out for repair parts for BambooJoe`s zed, let us make sure it we save it from insurance write off !! Looking for: Ns wing Bumper (Jdm please) Bonnet N/s headlight ( Thanks to Lexx for the offer of one ) Headlight panel N/s fog light Jeff

Ok dont fret that is almost certainly an easy repair: First off you need to get some details ready for the insurance or they may scupper your chances of getting it done. NEVER let the insurance take the car, NEVER EVER this is how it works, they take it, assess it and write it off, you never see it again. So if they want to look at it, insist they come to you, if need be send photo`s to the assessor to show it does not need to go on a ramp for inspection etc. So to cost, average prices below for parts, try your utmost to get the correct colour bumper and wing and you will not have any paint cost then. 1) Bumper £70 n/a or TT 2) Headlight panel £25 3) Headlight ( JAP ) £35 4) Bonnet £60 5) Fog light (Jap ) £15 6) Wing £60 7) sundries nuts bolt clips £10 Total £275 + any postal cost So what you need to say is you want a "contact price " to repair, basically this is you accept from them a cash amount to do the job yourself, if you say the parts are almost impossible to get new that will help as they only like fitting new parts. You will have to give supporting evidence of the repair cost,maybe a quote from a parts supplier and a quote from a body shop to fit them, this together will form a basis of what they offer, if it over £500 just take it and don`t argue if its under £400 ask for a recalculation, of course any offer they make will be less your excess, so you need to know what this is as it could be a deal breaker if its £600 !! Also I would be inclined to remove the bumper and the wing to see what has gone in behind them, its likely the bumper support is broken but they can be usually be fixed with some fibre glass resin, there is likely some bent brackets and bracket locations. Assuming you have all the bits to hand and a friend helping its a Sunday job, nothing more, stripping ahead would make the refit a few hours if that for any keen Diy mech and with a few basic tool too. Good luck with it and any more help required ask away.. Jeff

Yes very interesting seen that link before, now back to the real world on 25 year old turbo`s it is not going to matter, more important to keep the engine cooling system in good order and the temps down as much as possible, don`t need any more heat input. Jeff

Water feeds to the turbo`s are often problematic especially on ageing cars and to be honest have deleted a fair few myself with absolutely no problems, considering I have been doing this for near 20 years without a comeback is about as much proof as you need, all of the turbo re-builder`s I used confirmed that especially in standard guise they just heat the water up not cool the turbo`s!! Jeff

Yes agree it would be great but unlike the US where they have these actual one stop shops with all of the tech in one place, unfortunately its just so prohibitively costly in the UK, another reason is there is just not enough z32 trade left now in the UK to make such an investment now sadly. Jeff

Provided you do not drive it like you stole it or running silly high boost / power levels it will be fine. Jeff