JeffTT

Sorting through some tech pics found some I had not used so enjoy: For anyone with manual gearbox noise in second and forth gear but quiet in other gears the most likely problem is just road and normal transmission noise getting into the cab area due to the lower and upper rubber gaiters coming adrift simply accessing these and ensuring they are correctly fitted will stop the noise. Electrical connections on the engine can be trouble some but a common mix up can occur where the det sensor connector and the nearside vvt connector get mixed as oddly Nissan made them interchangeable and located next to each other. The result of the sensors been mixed is safety boost ( lower power ) and one side of the engine been unbalanced as the vvt is not working, check the two connectors and follow through the cable colours to be certain. Jeff TT

You could go to 14/14.5 psi with little trouble ( assuming good map, tiiming correct, good fuel etc. , one point though I see a lot of boost controllers set up wrong, with the set and gain adjustments made BEFORE the actual set boost is done set boost is NOT the same as set, instructions for most boost controllers are confusing at best and often can give disappointing results as the controller can only do what its set to, made more confusing by different manufactures referring to settings in with different terms. Jeff TT

Okay thought you meant at tick over which is when most complain about will hearing it, by 2k to 3k rpm the engine is making a lot of noises and would of thought vvt rattle would be drown out so maybe your hearing something else? Jeff TT

Too low tick over can also cause this noise. Jeff TT

Advise aside about been best to pull the engine, in short yes it can be done in the car but extra attention is required to be sure the crank is in good order or it will be waste of time. Support the engine from above, undo the engine mounts and steering rack and pipework, few clips here and there and then undo lower arms and remove the sub frame, total access to the sump from there on in, some will suggest just lowering the sub frame but removal gains you so much more viewable access for only slightly more dismantling. Good luck. Jeff TT

World of pain trying to fit those, airbag light issue, lower section warning light issue, connector issue, odometer will not change over, back lighting different. It is always possible to "make" things work but much easier to get the right part, the e-bay listing is misleading as it says 99 and they are not. Jeff TT

Easiest way to check output from the ecu us to use a ready made noid light kit, one below is around £12, plug in start engine and watch for flashes, if it does not either a broken cable or more likely the output from the ecu. Care is needed when dealing withe injector connectors both cleaning and if cutting off to replace as the power feed is always live even with the ignition off, if you cut across the cable and short the live to the ecu output earth (neutral) chances are the ecu will get damaged. Jeff TT http://www.bodyshop-tools-supplies.co.uk/product_view.php?id=10452&gclid=CJKjjeLs1b0CFakEwwodHXEAZg

Yes just just sat down and looking through my messages and emails etc will reply soon as.. Jeff

Ok this is a common issue, do not over tighten the 12 mm nuts if they snap you will be in a whole world of pain to correct. The two v shaped brackets originally have three small plactic pegs that keep everything tight however they can break and hence loose wheel, so loosen the 12 mm nuts and the turn the V shaped brackets at opposite angles to each other to act as wedges to stop the side way movement then tighten the nuts and not an exact fix but will be much better. Jeff TT

Think you have misunderstood the workings of the turbo sytem there, whatever the actuators are doing the speed of the turbo's will be the same at any given rpm. So in your case the turbo with the actuator opening too early was doing the same amount of work as the other one, however the boost it was producing was not been fully contained in the system. The other turbo was doing the exact same amount of work but its boost was been contained within the system, think of them as air pumps both running from a single source ( exhaust gases ) neither one can run faster or work harder. Jeff TT

Pull the pump fuse , leave the plug out and turn over on the key for 10 seconds. refit plug & fuse and away you go.. Jeff TT

The starter relay can on very rare occasion give trouble, but the op mentioned the starter solenoid sometimes operating without the starter actually engaging and on other times the lights dimming but no starts, on the balance of the details to hand the starter is most suspect. Jeff TT

No the starter is sticking, don`t get hooked up on the battery low amps, the solenoid on the starter has two functions, one is to actually transfer the power to the starter motor winding`s and the second is to act on the dog gear that engages the starter on to the flywheel, its quite possible that an issue with the ignition switch could be keeping the start signal on even when the key is off, however with the other issues that show up at different times the starter is the most suspect culprit. Jeff TT

Have read the original thread a few times just to be sure on this as I think maybe the answer`s so far are based on a mis-diagnosis. The op suggests that sometimes the engine start ok but sometimes after the engine starts the starter remains engaged this is clearly a starter fault, the non start fault could be a bad connection at the solenoid connection or the contact points or in fact the battery/ battery terminal but remaining engaged when the engine has started is a starter fault, the pre-engage solenoid / assembly dog may need a good clean if not just change the starter not the battery. Jeff TT

The Mobil 1 oil is a good quality one but more expensive than you need to pay as I said above and is really aimed at modern engines also any pre-existing leaks are likely to be worse, the lifter noise could be sometimes be effected by oil choice good and bad. Personally if you have not used the Mobil 1 oil see if the supplier will change it for you to a semi synthetic if your lifters are still noisy try an attitive designed for that, if they are still noisey its possible there is other issues. Jeff TT

Nothing wrong with Mobil motor sport 10-60 probably more expensive than you need to spend in all honesty, any good brand 10/40 semi synthetic is ample, a lot of owners prefer to spend on fully synthetic and that is their prerogative of course, I always consider that the TT should have 3 k to 4 k changes anyhow so why use a long life synthetic is its going to be changed regular. Jeff TT

If you using the 3 wire power power lead to the coil pack you need to be aware of the following: Harmonic disruption cause by trigger and earth lead proximity can lead to small inaccuracy in individual cars electrical system, dc power feed and trigger feed with in the same cable can create ac rectification that at best add a few milliseconds to the trigger action of the timing light strike but this can be enough to give a possible retarded signal but show correct. Close field sensing does not attract any ac rectification, real time pulsing count with no trailing or drop outs so gives consistent accuracy from car to car, zeds use what is now considered a very basic ignition system and for the DIY owner especially do not need to over pay for many bits of testing equipment, Power tuning guide for clamp type light guns The characteristic harmonics are based on the number of rectifiers (pulse number) used in a circuit and can be determined by the following equation: h = (n x p) ±1 where: n = an integer (1, 2, 3, 4, 5 …) p = number of pulses or rectifiers For example, using a 6 pulse rectifier, the characteristic harmonics will be: h = (1 x 6) ± 1 ⇒ 5th & 7th harmonics h = (2 x 6) ± 1 ⇒ 11th & 13th harmonics h = (3 x 6) ± 1 ⇒ 17th & 19th harmonics h = (4 x 6) ± 1 ⇒ 23rd & 25th harmonics

Doh!!! Glad you got it sorted, the timing light if using an induction type you need to have the loop open, see below an old post of mine. So starting with the light type, the Draper one shown here is an induction xenon light, prices range from £20 to £40 so well worth looking around Ebay is the best place. The unit is designed to collect its trigger signal from HT leads via the clamp sensor, of course our zeds use direct coil packs so there are no plug leads, but no worries as the coil packs emit emf (electric magnetic fields / force ) each time they trigger and the timing light sensor can pick up this and use it to flash the xenon light at the correct time, however the sensor jaw must be open so here you can see a cable tie is used to keep it apart. So now the easy bit, the induction sensor sits really nice in the coil pack well, make sure the silver sticker is facing forward as its more sensative this way around Hooking up the light to the battery, connect the red clip to the 12v live terminal and the black clip to the plenum earth point this we find gives a cleaner supply ( electronic wise ) and hence a brighter consitant flash. So we know the correct timing is 15 deg tdc this of course is at normal operating temperature, below the picture shows the light been pointed at the crank pulley where the timing marks can be seen, in the picture the engine was NOT up to temp and hence is showing an advance of timing, this is normal and will reduce as the engine warms up. So if any adjustments are needed the cas unit (crank angle sensor ) will need the three 10 mm bolts slacking off and the unit rotating either right to retard or to the left to advance, once correct lock them up and your done, occassionally after the timing has been adjusted the tick over may need trimming, the timing been correct is essential to get the best prerformance and best mpg. Jeff TT

Mostly alloy rads for the zed area copies of the original KOYO version like this one: The Mishimoto is the same as the Koyo As is the 2fast2 cool as is the Toyo version They are all tight between the turbo pipes but they will go in, the main difference between the original KOYO and the subsequent copies is price ! E-bay has lots on that are all from the single imported ( Midlands based ) who sells to re-sellers who spray on their own name through a stencil, average price is £125 to £150 depending where you buy from. Jeff

Yes got that well wrong, http://db-power.co.uk/products-page/hydraulics/1-piece-clutch-line-for-nissan-300zx-right-hand-drive/ Still a little dear but postage might equalise it Jeff TT

Easy, pop the pipe off and blow into it ( after the one way valve ) and it should be sealed, or with the engine running clamp the pipe and see if the engine runs differently. Jeff TT

The resevoir is empty but the cylinder still must be full, not long before that will draw air in though, the leak is on the back seal of the master cylinder, and the fluid will be running inside of your car up the back of the clutch pedal/ booster with the insulation soaking it up. Nissan UK no longer carry master cylinders, F1 in the US is the best bet find them on US E-bay, and the price difference is huge something like $45 instead of £120!! for the very same part. Check your clutch booster is not leaking, that can cause uneven idle. Jeff TT

As Ted said yes can be done in the car with the sump lowered, of course full cam belt strip and of course the lower cam belt sprocket needs to be removed, this usually involves drilling down the key way and replacing with a new item lucky they are not too dear, by chance have access to a brand new genuine oil pump still boxed if your have not bought one yet with big saving on new price. Jeff TT

What Ted said + for coolant bluecol concentrate. Jeff TT

Plenty on ebay Jeff TT http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-300ZX-TWIN-TURBO-Z32-AEROQUIP-BRAIDED-CLUTCH-LINE-HOSE-PIPE-MLR-XK-/121310037944?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3ANissan%7CModel%3A300+ZX&hash=item1c3ea447b8