jimmer

Sounds like someone hitting a cat with a baby :eek:

Si if Portishead gets a Netto,Lidl,or Aldi its in decline.leave straight away or buy some Nike shocks and an Ecko Hoody to blend in.

If your in Bristol SWZ is just down the A38.take you half hour to get there.

The problem with manual rebuilds is 3rd gear.Nissan modified the syncro assembly and the fork has to be replaced which makes it very costly.

When the tracking was done did you have a four wheel alignment.? And is the steering wheel straight.

out of interest how long did that all take?

Leave the box in the car,release the lower steering u/j and four subframe bolts.lower the subframe about 50mm and the engine will come out the top.

Didnt click.thats Nicks old car from Hambrook.

Met Red tt lwb on Pen park rd in Bristol this afternoon.reg J***CET.

Im sure i read in the nissan manual that until the engine is up to temperature the ecu keeps the car in safety boost via the solenoid valves.(when connected)

Pretty boy like you si out in the back roads.the locals could have had some fresh meat if they hadnt been sleeping off their shine.

Gearbox oil wont be the cause of the fault.as znut states it most likely hydraulic related.

If your referring to DMD wheel refurbing i think they have gone Neil.My old man took his enkei wheels to a guy in Keynsham in the trading estate off the bypass.

If your in the 2 -3k market bud you want to take your time and look at a few.There are some cracking cars out there and some that will cost you another two grand getting them roadworthy.good luck with the purchase.

My ten pennies worth.and any machine shop youd like to call Lol.you have pm Neil.

Graded bearings are a waste of time.the difference between them is microns and all machine shops work to thousanths of an inch.and if the crank is used then the grades are of even less use because they were measured and graded when the crank was new.its now done 50000 miles plus so how can they still be relevant now.the japs are very anal about tolerances as all their cars use the grading system.you cant even make bearings within microns.they are mass produced then measured after.

plenum off mate.even if you do dremel enough room to get a screw driver on the injector screws.they usually round off and the injectors are so tight if you pull them from above they break.

^^^^^^^^yeh who cares how it looks,its a motor built for a purpose not show n shine or cruising in.Id kill for that.

did the sparkie not put an ohms meter across the injector?.you could make up a lead to a 9v battery and wire it to the injector and see if it clicks.

The badge is not an e bay item.it looks factory.and as i said i have seen another car with one, the swb tt that now belongs to paul at swz came from japan with the same badge in exactly the same place.im gonna see if i can get a picture up.its very similar to the second pic in your reply jez.

My apprentice has fitted a gt3071 to his pulsar.the inlet snail is huge with a 100mm inlet.very laggy turbo even on a 4 cylinder.when it finally comes on boost its awesome and capable iirc of running 2 bar.

My cars a 91 jdm model and has a matal fairlady z badge just below the n/s repeater.ive only ever seen this on one other car in exactly the same place.Does anybody else have one or can anybody shed any light on these.are they rare or perhaps most people have removed them??

He could try http://www.automedicsupply.com/index.php?ref=Google&stopredirect=yes&width=1024&height=768

The sensors share a common earth and feed wire.check these for continuity.they are fused by the engine cont fuse as are the rest of the sensors/solenoids but if this had blown youd have loads of other issues.you should see 12v at the red/black wire and should get a variable voltage on the middle wire when you rev the car.this is the wire that signals the ecu.they enter on pin 29 and 55 of the ecu.

The best way Dave is to wire in your main beams using a relay as if they were spot lights,thats how mine are done.