jimmer

Took mine out during the break when corrie was on once :rolleyes: .

Are you tempted??.only an hour or so away from you.mmmm decisions decisions. :smash:

Oh no with this chip it eliminates injectors maxxing out i suspect,they just keep on going or for even more power its says to fit 440cc :rofl:

Here it is http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/L-K-NISSAN-300ZX-STAGE-3-TUNNING-CHIP-400-BHP-99P_W0QQitemZ270165047424QQihZ017QQcategoryZ32094QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem But keep it under yer hats mind.Cant let a tuning secret like this get out :rolleyes:

Has anybody noticed all the stage 3 chips on flea bay claiming 400rwhp at 17psi. :rofl: :rofl: I mailed a guy bidding saying the claims are bullsh*t as it cost me 3k to make that kind of power and he told me "it dont cost that much ,you were ripped off and mind your own buisness".What a twat,hope his fookin pistons melt :wack: .

It says in the manual that all settings remain when the unit is removed from its power source.

How true that is.why pay more for a car with some token gesture warranty that at the first sign of trouble the dealer grow ski slopes for shoulders and show you the door.

Driftworks sell some nice wheel spacers.I fitted some for a guy with a 200sx and i was very impressed with the quality.

with the age of the cars now the second hand engine market is a gamble.even if you hear it running its not always a true indication of its condition.you may find a nice one but the chances are that someone else has had the best out of it.youll get true peace of mind if you source a used unwarrantable engine which pop up for sale on here and rebuild it from the ground up.

machine shops work to tighter tolerances than manufacturers.

The guy brought the taxi in for a steam clean.I had to get a picture so i managed to keep a straight face and ask the owner if he minded as i thought his car looked mint.pmsl under my breath.the bloke thought i was serious :rofl:

Its entirely up to you but you only get one chance.I dont nurse them in but drive them hard and have NEVER had any problems using this method.The link in another post on this subject is worth reading and makes perfect sense.just remember to use running in oil and if your rebuilding due to an engine failure metal particles will be left in your oil cooler so flush it out.

Rear window seals and trim are a horrendous price iirc for what they are.funki had his replaced when his car was done.15 year old baked window rubbers dont tend to re fit nice once they are removed.

I always use mono grade oil in my rebuilds with no additives.Pointless to rebuild an engine then fill it with oil full of anti wear properties.As regards to running in i dont.If you have faith in what youve built then start as you mean to go on,once hot drive it as you would normally just dont labour the engine or redline it.In my experience cars that have been nursed wont take hard driving later on.

As were on the subject of nailing expensive cars i had a set too a weekend ago with a guy driving an m power z4 which is a £43,000 motor.He tried to inside lane me on a roundabout so i wound it up with the beemer in hot pursuit and gained over a 150yds which i kept till the next junction.The guy pulled along side and said "fook me what have you done to that?".Told him bigger tubs and injectors and he stuck his thumb up and said "fair shout".Made my day and probaly ruined his getting done by a four grand car.

Ive got one of Lukes seat kits.he imports them from the states.if its a 2+2 your doing you wanna allow a weekend to do it.start with the back seat as its the easiest and helps you to get a feel for the install.the more time you spend manipulating the leather over the foam the better it will look.i bought some inch foam for extra packing on the lower front seat squabs as over the years the originals compress and wont pack out your new covers well leaving them slack and wrinkled.also i purchased an eyelet punch/installer and used eyelets around the securing cable ties to stop the leather tearing when tensioned.i also got shed loads of beer in and be prepared to swear alot!! hth.

You can also check the injector in question using two wires and a 9v battery.

Not that different,should have taken a patent out on mine!!.

seen many a boost leak that couldnt be heard.if you nurse the car up to speed and it drives fine your only using the vacuum side of the cars piping circuit but if you bring the car on boost and it splutters it usually indicates a boost leak.

Im sure the hard idle switch will give this fault also.the tps has two plugs,one is the idle switch iirc and can play up and cause engine stumble when the throttle is pressed.

Sounds like a major boost leak to me as well.Check your intercoolers and pipes.With the hot weather its possible a hose has softened and come off under boost.

Then turn your car into a parachute as you drive along with targas off to cool down and counter act any hp gains you may have made. :wack:

plug one of the old injectors into the plug and turn the cas by hand and see if the injector clicks.its probaly a bad connection or you may have a faulty new injector.rare but possible.

Z1 used to sell noltec mounts but appear to have dropped them.Ive read a few posts on the aus forum where they only lasted 18mnths .

PMSL :rofl: :rofl: