Stephen

If that's what someone will pay. TBH though what even 100k in classic car terms, my mates work just had some old Le Man car. Auction opening bid £1.2M. Crazy, crazy money. There's a 1% out there paying £400 for a glass of whiskey served on imported Antarctic ice, there desperate to blow there money on crap and if two or more of them decide they want some old Dagenham dustbin the price goes through the roof.

I'd go with a standard answer of if you need a guide it's probably going to be a pain in the ass for you. It's all nuts and bolts and wires, not hard...just long winded, more parts involved than you'd first realise. It's worth googling as it's common for them to do this swap in the US as the turbo model it's rarer and more expensive compared to how it is here. The NA version (all 2+2) are more numerous and cheaper.

I hope so to Art.

Sadly I think that effect will be temporary. I've used an autogleam product that brings them up like that. Month later you look grey again.

Nearly £500 ouch, I'd value my zed at about a grand so I don't think I could pay that bigger premium for a genuine article.

That's a good looking car.

It's really simple mate. Il bang you out a diagram tomorrow.

Let me know ;) - - - Updated - - - Finished the other bit?

My van is up for renewal, I've done a fair few miles over the last few years in it spending, on average 5 hours a day in it. We've been across Europe through France, Belgium and Holland and the length and breadth of the UK. Yeah il be sad to see it go in a way but I won't miss it. I've always assumed it was the time you spent in a car that made you have a bond with it. I know il never forget watching my Capri drive away. It's a hole that regardless of having the Z for nearly twice as long and having invested more time that bond isn't as strong if I'm honest. The car felt like an old friend every time I got in it. So what makes the bond and which car do you or would you miss most?

The implication is that it's going to be like an on off switch I believe, as apposed to your bell housing illuminating like the landing light. :lol:

Just because it worked doesn't mean it was right. Does your switch have any function other than cosmetic?

Is the switch and wiring you added suitably sized for the current drawn?

It's a gear stick to me.

Your best off starting your own thread bud.

Available from 15-55mm thickness; http://www.driftworks.com/nissan-5x114-pcd-bolt-on-wheel-spacers-15-55mm.html I believe the chap your talking about passed away bud.

Just try unplugging the MAF and drying it in the airing cupboard first. After that I'd try a known working MAF.

One long and two short is code 12, which is MAF circuit. The code plus your symptoms I'd agree with your diagnosis. They don't like getting wet, common issue with them. Try drying it out but I suspect it's potentially shot. Remember the code is for the circuit not specifically the MAF itself. So damaged/poor wiring or connections could yield the same fault. Unplugging the MAF, it should run much smoother but be limited to about 3k. You may need to reset the ECU to achieve this.

Dunno if I like the idea of drilling extra holes in the wheel Si.

I have a compression tester and leak down tester bud.

Ok. Let's sort something out and il come have a look at it if you want.

The cars at your mums?

Welcome. What part of Wiltshire are you from?

Exactly that.

I see, re the engine. Under what impression was the HG defined as at fault? Smoke colour? Is it actually loosing coolant or oil?