Stephen

I’d start by inspecting the wiper motor. Is it receiving power and does it do anything? It may be turning but there’s no connection to the arm.

You’ll likely find the cabling around the knock sensor rather than the sensor itself is faulty. If I remember correctly the stock knock sensor is only activate in a certain portion of the rev range, ironically not at the most dangerous point. Basically it’s pretty crude. I deleted mine and fitted a resistor to mimic its function, very common modification.

Bit of negative camber and you’ll be ok I recon. Just watch the bumper tab in the back and probably trim the lumps out the front liner.

The NSX is noted for being one of the best handling cars of that era, so unsurprising that the Z32 isn’t as good. That said, I think you’ve got a problem if it’s that bad. The car your comparing to is a damp lamp with nearly twice the HP, which is keeping up with a modern M3. He’s not hanging around. I could accelerate hard out of corners with dry warm tyres with no problem, it was on cold tyres or damp conditions that boost would catch you out or if you were just being too aggressive. That was on 245/40r18s up front and 265/35R18 at the back, Falken FK453s. The Z32 is prone to understeer before over in the dry stock, I would say. The only time mine was as sensitive and sketchy was when the rear subframe bushes were shot.

If you pop the spark plugs out and pop a bore scope in there you should be able to read the stamps on the piston crowns. Stock ones are marked 30P. Have a look around and speak to a dyno operator, explain and get the AFR recorded and they may even be able to see the map. Do you know how much boost it’s running? I assume it’s got an EBC?

I mean I would proceed carefully but it’s structurally sound and it has the parts it should and nothing broken yet then you’ve got a bargain that needs time, money and attention. You’re likely going to be throwing at least what you paid back into it but then you must already know this as the Haltech wasn’t cheap. Mikey Bean didn’t get himself the best wrap but when ever I met him In real life he was a nice enough guy. I expect if you can track him down on FB or something he’ll remember the car? I take it there’s no break down of what’s on the car? A set of rebuilt turbos and an engine build won’t get you those numbers, that car would need some big turbos, injectors and an ability to breathe in and out. See if you can see the turbo rear housings markings, injector colour etc.

I was thinking mine was made by a forum member but I recon mine too was from Luke at ZCentre.

Advertised for sale on PistonHeads yesterday. Bloody scammers have already started.

There was a guy selling some 850cc injectors as well, those and these and you’d be making some solid numbers.

Do you have any dash lights when you turn the key? There’s a couple of relays in the fuse box by the accelerator pedal that can create problems and the inhibitor switch is behind the arch liner.

Evening sun on the old girl.

I’ve seen them on a few 300zx’s so yes they fit. But clearing those k sports, that’s a bigger question. What diameter are the discs?

I haven’t openly advertised the car yet but it is officially for sale. I’m looking for £12.5k which I think is more than reasonable.

The steering is active, so it’s uses input from the speed sensor. If the speedometer fails to work it will stop the power assist steering. You car being an import will likely have a speed converter behind the dash, loose connection here on this circuit will be the cause. You tapping probably remade the connection. Also the speed sensor on the gearbox can pop out the end, be loose, simply slowly down and speeding back up it can kick back to life.

I feel like a blown headgasket is the go to diagnostic of these cars. I was told very much the same many years ago and it was a split water pipe and a dodgy MAF sensor. Took about 10 minutes for someone with knowledge to diagnose. The best specialist in the country isn’t far from the places you’re taking. I also would assume that you must of paid more than tuppence for the car as they aren’t cheap these days. It’s got to be worth getting an expert to give it the once over. If it is dead, I recon he will even have a good contact for getting rid of that’s the case.

I didn’t do it but a local specialist did this week, cut out the rear portion of the sill where is corroded collecting cack as they do. Replaced the metal and re-shutz’d it. An oil change with a new Nissan oil filter. Straight through the MOT with no advisories. The sill is getting painted this week once the shultz has dried properly and then a good polish.

Dusted the zed off. Looking at some places to do a little work on the body before it goes up for sale as the garage is needed for my new toy.

Happy birthday Jim. Just seen the photos of Andrew’s car. You don’t look any bloody different since I last saw you! Been on the vampire blood!?

Happy birthday Richard! Hope you are keeping well.

Have you got the right one? The neutral switch and reverse switch are close together and look similar.

Quick turn around on that too. Looks great.

It seems the vary wildly. There’s some cars asking big numbers but whether they sell… an original U.K. manual seems to be the variant that people want to buy and holds value. Lwb auto NA imports the least value. Lwb manual TTs are pretty popular and command relatively strong money. The value does seem to have dropped a bit last few years. For appreciation, an R32/33 GTR would have been a better Nissan to buy. None of these things make sense really. It’s about popularity and supply and demand. Objectively crap cars command higher values than good ones. Vauxhall Novas for example. Fords are popular anyway, so will be higher prices.

I wouldn’t before or near Xmas. People will not be buying and those that are buying, will often be bargain hunters assume it’s pressure sale. It’s a good time to buy, a bad time to sell.

I wouldn’t make any rash assumptions etc until you’ve driven it. Multiple weeks sat there and the current weather, it’s going to be filled with condensation.