Stephen

I don’t currently have the ability to PM as I’m not a subscribed member I’m afraid. Pricing my car is hard which is why I’d be happy to discuss whether it fits your need/budget.

Mines not actively for sale as I went to MOT it and it failed on some nonsense, my fault for not preparing things tbh. It fits your brief though. So we can talk about it maybe? Red. Manual. Twin Turbo. Build thread here.

How is your oil pressure? The hydraulic lifters can make a right racket if they aren’t behaving. You’ve also got the variable valve timing solenoids, they’re right down the back. When was the last time it had a service? Do you have a good service history?

Can you not unlock the boot and climb through? At least you can then pop the bonnet and charge it up.

There’s a number of plates/heat shields down there. I’d start by having a wobble test.

I remember seeing my first Z32, it looked massive, so wide. The size of that R35 next to one shows how much cars have swollen.

That’s how it should be yes, but the world we live in these days peoples lack of due diligence often seems to be someone, anyone else’s fault. Not even saying this occurred here but it does, the reviews people leave of products they buy are hilarious at times. I think you know me enough after all these years Jimmer that you’re aware I have enough respect to respect your judgment. What I was getting at is that if someone buys my car and six months later they’re moaning about some bit of rust they or I didn’t spot, want to disassemble half of it on my driveway before buying or a perspective buyer expects me to drive a five hour round trip for a report on a £10k~ car its not happening. But then I wouldn’t pretend mines perfect, it was never built to sell for profit or anything of the like, it was built for my enjoyment.

Oh I still live around that area, I’m just not there currently, always on the road. We’re still in the bungalow but planning on a move to a bigger house in the same village as we need more space, with two kids now and I could do with a double garage. Awkward stage as I transferred the business into a limited company as it’s grown and I need more history in my books for the mortgage stuff.

Makes me home sick those photos!

I do agree with your sentiments but equally it actually puts me off putting mine on the market. Whilst these cars have increased in value they aren’t commanding larger sums, the idea of tyre kickers on steroids that want professional reports and to take half the thing apart looking for faults fills me with dread. Not because I’m trying to hide things but because of the aggro. It’s a barrier to selling a 35 year old car that I’m just not interested in. You either want it or you don’t and it’s not a show piece concourse house price investment, it’s not new or nearly new, it’s a 35 year old second hand car, there’s always an element of the unknown and the idea of a potential buyer creating havoc or coming back in 6 months time to say they found rust somewhere. I’m talking myself out of selling as we speak!

If the stock boost gauge is what you’re looking at, it’s a bit optimistic. Check your ECU for safety boost. If you’re only making 7psi I’d not be surprised. My car runs on Baileys. At partial boost they chirp. That classic whoosh sound only occurs when I’m on the boost properly.

You need to go back to basics and establish exactly which cylinders are working and which aren’t. Then progress by working out whether you are missing one of the holy trinity, spark, fuel or compression. Things like a damaged Det sensor are problems but they won’t stop the engine from running. As a blind guess, I would bet the fuel injector connections are cack.

Check the PTU connections. Establish wether it’s a fuel delivery or spark issue.

The 370 is a far more useable car, if nothing else it’s more modern road manors but they are incredibly similar to drive. A 300 is a more engaging drive because of its analog nature.

Plenum gasket for one. It’s not massively complicated but there’s a spaghetti of wires and hoses in your way to get there, they will also be brittle and stiff. It’s going to be time consuming.

Looking to sell next month. The spec is as follows; Engine 60k service with belts, cam seals etc performed in 2015. Iirc. Turbos rebuilt and Balanced by CR Turbos with 360 thrust bearings and step gap seals. Full delete list, EGR, AIV, Aircon. Underdrive lightweight pulley. Aftermarket uprated radiator and oil cooler. Cone filter intake. Bailey DV26 dump valves. Godspeed intercoolers. Japspeed exhaust, divorced turbo elbows, decat and 2.25” system. Suspension and brakes Power tricks front and rear camber arms and Torsion rods. Driftworks toe arms rear. Energy suspension full poly bush kit. Driftworks HICAS delete kit. Solid subframe and diff mounts. Solid steering rack joint with energy bushes. Stillen front and rear anti roll bars. Cusco Front coilovers from an R33 and Tien rear from an R32. Solid top mounts with 6k front and 4K rear springs. Evo 8 brembos front and rear with 345mm vented and drilled discs. Interior. Series 2 suede door cards with the electric passenger and driver. Leather. No radio. Boost, oil temp and voltmeter gauges. I think that’s pretty much everything. I never intended to sell it so I’ve never actually written it all down before. I’m looking for 15k does that seem reasonable?

Looking for a replacement mirror, ideally AG2 I actually only need the mirror surround as I clipped the garage door.

Have you asked the tester for clarification?

Sorry you’ve had to to go through this but good on you for pursuing what’s right.

I had the same, with the Evo brakes mine has up front, just too much front bias. I changed the rears as well to the same and it resolved the problem. If you are comfortable with it then that’s great, it’s your car after all.

The ABS layout does really overcomplicate the braking system on these cars. I’m not sure id want to do away with it on a car predominantly for the road but I understand your choice.

Next to zero information there. It’s interesting. It’s not my cup of tea but it goes to show (potentially if it’s not rubbish!) that you can build a car for design and it be electric second. Almost all these EVs are huge SUV or mini SUV style vehicles with horrid design aesthetic in my opinion. We allegedly want efficiency yet make them the size of planets and weight of them too, it’s a very strange place to start from if you want efficiency, that is of corse if you have a choice. Also having driven through a Lithium mine in the U.K. this week, which looks like the apocalypse has arrived it’s difficult to square that “it’s environmental” circle.

It may be the hardness rather than the sensor itself. It may, more likely be detecting vibrations it doesn’t like. The symptoms you describe though are not of a code 34 fault but something wider. The ECU diagnostic is pretty crude by modern standards and its ability to convey the fault is pretty limited. I would probably start by checking the MAF and the ECU temperature sensor. I’ve had similar when the PTU connection was poor, which you will have disturbed much of these doing the timing belt. I assume you are confident in your work on the belt? Beyond that I would go back to basics and go through the 6 steps guide from Ash Spec. Boost leak check, fuel pressure etc etc.

I’d love to know what went wrong there, as you correctly state that is a very simple task…

The starter motor failed on my van, so as the show must go on and sun was out on a crisp autumn day I threw my stuff in the zed, unsorned it over a cup of tea, after sorning at the end if September. Checked the air in the tyres and set off on a 160 mile trip. One 34 year old sports car to the rescue! There’s an irony there.