Stephen

You need to go back to basics and establish exactly which cylinders are working and which aren’t. Then progress by working out whether you are missing one of the holy trinity, spark, fuel or compression. Things like a damaged Det sensor are problems but they won’t stop the engine from running. As a blind guess, I would bet the fuel injector connections are cack.

Check the PTU connections. Establish wether it’s a fuel delivery or spark issue.

The 370 is a far more useable car, if nothing else it’s more modern road manors but they are incredibly similar to drive. A 300 is a more engaging drive because of its analog nature.

Plenum gasket for one. It’s not massively complicated but there’s a spaghetti of wires and hoses in your way to get there, they will also be brittle and stiff. It’s going to be time consuming.

Looking to sell next month. The spec is as follows; Engine 60k service with belts, cam seals etc performed in 2015. Iirc. Turbos rebuilt and Balanced by CR Turbos with 360 thrust bearings and step gap seals. Full delete list, EGR, AIV, Aircon. Underdrive lightweight pulley. Aftermarket uprated radiator and oil cooler. Cone filter intake. Bailey DV26 dump valves. Godspeed intercoolers. Japspeed exhaust, divorced turbo elbows, decat and 2.25” system. Suspension and brakes Power tricks front and rear camber arms and Torsion rods. Driftworks toe arms rear. Energy suspension full poly bush kit. Driftworks HICAS delete kit. Solid subframe and diff mounts. Solid steering rack joint with energy bushes. Stillen front and rear anti roll bars. Cusco Front coilovers from an R33 and Tien rear from an R32. Solid top mounts with 6k front and 4K rear springs. Evo 8 brembos front and rear with 345mm vented and drilled discs. Interior. Series 2 suede door cards with the electric passenger and driver. Leather. No radio. Boost, oil temp and voltmeter gauges. I think that’s pretty much everything. I never intended to sell it so I’ve never actually written it all down before. I’m looking for 15k does that seem reasonable?

Looking for a replacement mirror, ideally AG2 I actually only need the mirror surround as I clipped the garage door.

Have you asked the tester for clarification?

Sorry you’ve had to to go through this but good on you for pursuing what’s right.

I had the same, with the Evo brakes mine has up front, just too much front bias. I changed the rears as well to the same and it resolved the problem. If you are comfortable with it then that’s great, it’s your car after all.

The ABS layout does really overcomplicate the braking system on these cars. I’m not sure id want to do away with it on a car predominantly for the road but I understand your choice.

Next to zero information there. It’s interesting. It’s not my cup of tea but it goes to show (potentially if it’s not rubbish!) that you can build a car for design and it be electric second. Almost all these EVs are huge SUV or mini SUV style vehicles with horrid design aesthetic in my opinion. We allegedly want efficiency yet make them the size of planets and weight of them too, it’s a very strange place to start from if you want efficiency, that is of corse if you have a choice. Also having driven through a Lithium mine in the U.K. this week, which looks like the apocalypse has arrived it’s difficult to square that “it’s environmental” circle.

It may be the hardness rather than the sensor itself. It may, more likely be detecting vibrations it doesn’t like. The symptoms you describe though are not of a code 34 fault but something wider. The ECU diagnostic is pretty crude by modern standards and its ability to convey the fault is pretty limited. I would probably start by checking the MAF and the ECU temperature sensor. I’ve had similar when the PTU connection was poor, which you will have disturbed much of these doing the timing belt. I assume you are confident in your work on the belt? Beyond that I would go back to basics and go through the 6 steps guide from Ash Spec. Boost leak check, fuel pressure etc etc.

I’d love to know what went wrong there, as you correctly state that is a very simple task…

The starter motor failed on my van, so as the show must go on and sun was out on a crisp autumn day I threw my stuff in the zed, unsorned it over a cup of tea, after sorning at the end if September. Checked the air in the tyres and set off on a 160 mile trip. One 34 year old sports car to the rescue! There’s an irony there.

Back face of the fuse box by the accelerator pedal. See Andrew’s reply. The targa drain goes in there, I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s got damp.

I did not know wet apply wax was a thing, certainly not an effective product anyway! Thanks for sharing that. Living where water is more chalk than water water marks on dark cars are a thing of absolute frustration.

Personally looking at the prices currently as I am, 18k for a clean 99 sounds pretty good. An average price now for a manual TT (I appreciate this is an automatic) is around 15k.

Just to add to that, the car actually runs pretty nicely now. It’s just a case of I know it can do better. It’s kind of like an unticked box.

Agreed and I don’t wish to be negative in that context, just wanted more information about the options. If someone came along tomorrow and said il buy it for what I’m after I’d sell. What I do seem to be seeing though is a lot of cars, not just Z32s are not selling particularly quickly. That said I’m also not 100% on what else I’d want. I flip flop between a C6 corvette and a 370z but honestly both have compromises, the LHD thing is a real put off for me and the 370z feels very similar but also slow and making power from it is not cheap. I did start looking into a Maserati Grandturismo but that’s a money pit, bad parts availability, still deprecating etc. The Cayman also appeals but I don’t like the sound or the Boxster association.

Wastegate to 16. I got a reply from Sebastian at SZ. Basically he encouraged me to go dual maf with a translator and said their version will be ready very soon. Then said that our 99ron is probably equivalent to their 93RON. And that because of the stock ECU it prone to running rich, double check for boost leaks. The dyno print out wasn’t one he is used to seeing so can’t say much. I wouldn’t go as far as to say it was a disappointing reply but it didn’t really help.

Wastegate to 16.

You can run a proper twin intake like with the Selin via Nistune, you need a dummy maf and it’s not quite as accurate but… choices…

It’s actually 2.5” according to the blurb, maybe it 2.25” ID. In terms of the exhaust the biggest bottle neck would be the turbo elbows.

That’s a from a draft of the spec for the sales advert.

Engine and Drive train 120k service with belts, cam seals etc performed in 2015. Iirc. Replaced all coolant and oil flexible pipes. Stock Turbos rebuilt and Balanced by CR Turbos with 360 thrust bearings and step gap seals. Stock size Fuel injectors. Chipped and socketed ECU to suit 16psi. Manual boost controller. SFS Silicone boost hoses. Full delete list, EGR, AIV, Aircon. Underdrive lightweight pulley. Aftermarket uprated radiator and oil cooler. Cone filter intake. Bailey DV26 dump valves. Godspeed intercoolers, ducts modified to suit. Japspeed exhaust full system, divorced turbo elbows, decat and 2.25” system. Competition Clutch Stage 2 550lb rated, braided clutch with new master. Fluids all changed during conversion in gear box and diff. New seals and gaskets on diff and g box. New shifter bushes. Suspension and brakes Power tricks front and rear camber arms Torsion rods. Driftworks toe arms rear. Energy suspension full poly bush kit. Driftworks HICAS delete kit. Solid subframe and diff mounts. Solid steering rack joint with energy bushes. Stillen front and rear anti roll bars. Cusco Front coilovers from an R33 and Tien rear from an R32. Solid top mounts with 6k front and 4K rear springs. Evo 8 Brembos callipers front and rear with 335mm front and 345mm rear vented and drilled discs. Braided lines, brake master brace, new OEM Master Interior Series 2 suede door cards with the electric passenger and driver. Series 2 Leather seats passenger and driver. No radio. Boost, oil temp and voltmeter gauges. Body Stripped back and coated in galvanised primer, the majority of the underside. Hammerite and Gravitex stone chip applied. Extensive cavity wax protection. Foam spoiler replaced with OEM copy in fibreglass. Orange indicators switched for white with orange bulbs, crystal rear lights. 9x18 AVS Model 5 fenders rolled F&R. Roof bars wrapped black.