Stephen

Do you like how the HICAS system feels/drives? The reason why so many deleted this system, not just from the Z32 but the R chassis models it was also fitted to, it wasn’t about drifting.

Why don’t you just redrill the bolt hole.

G13

I’ve actually removed my HIDs, for the amount of time I drive the thing and the even lower amount of time that that is at a time where head lights are required I can’t be bothered with the are they aren’t they road legal nonsense.

Shouldn’t have any issues with it starting in the cold. Gary lots of NI plates in the rest of the U.K., often referred to as “dateless” plates. Put it on Range Rover and your neighbour won’t know it’s 10 years old, if that sort of thing appeals to your insecurities ?

I don’t work on white goods for a living but it’s not too far out my day job. I’ve fixed a few things over the years as they break at home. I always find myself taking them apart and thinking they’re badly designed. When the utility room fridge (kept bait and bulk stuff in it) went pop on the breaker one evening I isolated it and had a look. It turned out that the condenser has a drip tray on top that the condensation leaks onto, the idea being the heat of it evaporates the water. Now condensate is corrosive and the evaporation dish is steel, you can now guess why it had tripped out. I assumed this crap design was, you know an anomaly and that other companies do it better, nope. Mental really and obviously it’s located somewhere you wouldn’t/couldn’t look without pulling the damn thing out. White goods suck. Clearly with the issues above better design regs are required. Most of them mix water and electrics.

It’s probably just the Berroca Tony.

Agreed. There’s elements of it I like, I don’t think the piss yellow colour helps.

The wheels are on wrong.

At the end of the day it’s about getting it clean, tidy and corrosion resistant. Few brush strokes are preferable to rust, a utilitarian job.

My Stillen ones had the same level of corrosion. I wire wheeled them and chassis black. Keep meaning to pop them off and get them powder coated.

If the biting point of the clutch is very low then adjust it. No one wants the biting point down there. You shouldn’t have any issues with the absence of the Vacuum tanks, some people have reported it shortens the life of the clutch booster... seen no evidence of this though, mines been this way for five years, probably longer and has done a few thousand miles that way without issue. As have a number of peoples I know. The soft brake peddle is unlikely to be to do with the recent changes unless something has been done in error to the vacuum assist of the brake booster.

10mm spacers are a problem. As slip ons. They’re too thick for the stock wheel studs, replacement extended rear wheel studs (which are different to the front) are a pain to find. No one makes proper hubcentric with the studs in the spacer in 10mm, in fact quite a few companies don’t make 15s. If the wheel only started fouling the arms after lowering the car then it’s almost certainly a geometry issue. Everything changes when you lower a car and the more you lower it the more thus becomes problematic. I wouldn’t be surprised if the car is now toe out at the rear.

Video of the car by Hoonigan.

Not had an easy life this one, glad it’s in the right hands.

Should be printed on the rear face of the wheel, usually on the spoke. Also worth thinking about your geometry. My HICAS is long gone and the kit I have reduces this issue.

That’s a tyre size you need to know the wheel size including the offset. Either of the first two options could work with the spacer more likely.

Right, I’ve got a late spec NA long block split and ready for a clean and rebuild sat here. I was keeping it for myself to rebuild as a fully forged TT as it’s a perfect candidate, but it’s not going to happen any time soon and to be honest I want to free up the space so I’m going to sell it. I will start a proper listing with pictures etc but I wanted to gauge interest on the format of its sale, ie either to sell as a long block or short block and heads separated etc. What’s here; A late spec VG30DE short block, this has the NA oil squirters you’d want for forged pistons and is set up to hold the turbo oil lines etc. The bores are clean with the OEM honing still visible. The rods, pistons, crank etc are all separated. The crank and rods are packaged up safely and are available, TT and NA cranks are the same but the rods have smaller wrist pins being from an NA. I would expect these to be replaced in any event. The heads are the later 10Y ones, this means they come with the later cams (all NAs cane with TT manual style cams) and the late style plenum, no adaptation kit required for your bigger injectors just a late style fuel rail (not included). These are the NA version of the heralded 40P ones. So lacing in some TT exhaust valves and you’ve got some great heads. As they stand the cams are pulled as are the lifters, all packed up nicely. This isn’t the usual boat anchor that’s been sat behind the shed, it’s been split packaged and tucked away. Obviously it’s HEAVY, I’d be perfectly happy for it to sell as a complete lot or split into two. Is this of any interest to anyone? I’m not looking for strong money but the heads alone are worth a couple of quid... Within reason I’d be prepared to deliver it to anywhere in Southern England or Wales but my costs would need to be covered.

Cheers guys.

Don’t laugh but I have toyed with selling my complete running road legal 2+2 one and buying a slicktop as a project. ?

I think with the recent price rises and the current situation many are looking at a pile of cash and thinking now would be a good time to liquidate it. It’s no secret that I’ve toyed with selling mine, using part of the money to buy something else and liquidate the other portion. Trouble is there’s nothing else I want more that fills that criteria and will fit in my garage comfortably.

The front grill of the X7 is so big I feel like it’s going to suck you up.

I wonder how this will play out, after all the Euro market for Nissan is poor. Something like less than 5% of their global sales are to the EU and the U.K. is the largest consumer. About 30K nissans were purchased in the U.K., comparatively Germany and France less than 10k each. With the trade deal between the U.K. and Japan it’s possible that situation may change over the coming years. Who knows, if it looks like that though it will be globally rare because it’s a munter and a rehash of an already old and dated car.

Is it me or have they recycled the front end of the early 350z prototype. From the back and the profile it’s a pretty car but that front end is the dogs.

Expect you boys are getting a kicking a the moment? I went back last month, nervous times.