Stephen

Oh also as I brushed my mind pinged back. Isn’t that relay fed by another relay. It’s the Accessory relay I believe. I may be mis remembering.

Iirc and it’s been a while that board is prone to corrosion. So I’d make sure it’s all clean for starters. Then I’d look at how your taking that measurement, your voltage may be off if the ground isn’t a clean one, same as the rest of them. Did you just switch for another relay in the car or is it new? My relays were starting to fail and I had to go through and replace many of the higher useage ones like the ECCS and headlights. The previous owner of my car had extended the loom and fitted a Siemens relay.

It’s just a finned pipe, they live down the front on U.K. models in the path of all the salt and yuck, hence why you’ve not found one. Honestly, unless it’s some very nieche OEM thing, I wouldn’t bother. If it’s for performance in a drift car or something where your cooking the PSF then there’s a multitude of options by MOCAL for example that would be far more efficient and available.

I’ve seen photos but it’s not often been done, as you’ve already realised there’s a fair chunk of stuff in the way. Half the battle is creating the space. TBH if I was personally going to go down the custom turbo layout route I’d be going single.

Well done, I did one in 2017. The road to it was paved with injuries and set backs and I had a bloody cold the day of the event. I kind of stopped after that but I’m back running now, like you I wouldn’t say I enjoy it, there’s moments where it kind of clicks but mostly I find it helps my mind and keeps the beer belly at bay.

The key word there is maintain. Last year maintenance in my Z cost me about £200 tops.

Surely if it’s an import and there’s no warning lights they are going to struggle to know what was specific to the model at production. Luckily mines an 89 and has the better non airbag early wheel anyway.

Use Jubilee, the Mikalors look fancy but they tend to not be as good a seal.

You can exchange the springs on factory springs but tbh unless they’ve been replaced it’s asking for failure. You certainly used to be able to get replacement shocks from Bilstien and KYB. Any lower than 30mm though and your into Proper height adjustable coil overs and you will need to go aftermarket for the camber correction.

Spotted a red zed with a black tailgate in Cardiff, I swear I recognised it as a members car. It was in a lock up near an Industrial park.

For Christ sake, you’ve paid bloody good money for that rebuild. I know it’s not the same builder each time but how hard is it to build an engine.

Can’t remember tbh. I’ve got under drive pulleys and stock belts no longer fit my car. If I remember correctly though the NA belt is different.

In that case your TT is relying on the hydraulics to keep the rear wheels aligned. To switch isn’t a big job, as a quick guide; You will need the bracket from NA pump as well as it’s different, the pump is shorter. You could use the TT reservoir but it will have a could of unused/open legs, so you would have to decide on plugging them or the switch. A switch would be tidier and more professional looking. You will then need to remove the hydraulic bar in the rear and fit a lock out bar of your choice. Some will require modification of the hubs and others will utilise the Hicas ball joints.

There’s always been an element of that, the cars share so much that it’s always reflected on the cost of parts. The cost of parts for Z32s have always been excessive for what is a non premium brand, compare what parts cost for say fords of a similar vintage or American cars. You could rebuild a whole Golf for the cost of a set of Z32 exterior trims and the Golf would be worth more. As an example Temp sensor for a z32 £28 for a mk2 golf £6. Admittedly It could be worse, Porsche parts are quite expensive but then it’s a bloody Porsche not the same company that brought you the Micra and the Bluebird. I think the rise in price to a certain point is good because it makes it more justifiable to actually spend money on them. There was a time not that long ago that a 60k service, especially if you had to pay for labour, would make a Z32 an uneconomical repair. It’s now actually worthwhile to look after the damn things.

I dunno if you’ve looked recently or wether it’s a bit cheaper your side of the South but you would need to add £150k onto that for a house, let alone one with a garage.

For reference it’s 630mm from the floor to the arch centre (highest point) on all four corners of mine. As a side note, be aware that the bodies on z32s are not quite as straight as you might expect, most of my fitment issue surrounded one rear arch being tighter than the other by a few mm. This is a common issue with many 90s Nissans it would appear.

For reference my cars about the same ride height as yours, touch lower at the back I recon. My Set up is; Front 18x8j et 20 with 225/40r18 Rear 18x9j et 20 with 265/35r18 The front is fine, it will occasionally scrub the liner, especially if there’s more than me in the car. The rear I’ve had nightmares with and I’ve had to roll the arches and tuck the tabs to get them to fit. If they were 10mm less aggressive I wouldn’t of had half the problem.

Pretty sure all of that S14 200sx stuff fits, available from Euro Car Parts etc. You’ll have to check.

It sold out pretty fast I believe. All the Simply events are selling out unfortunately.

Do check but I believe numbers are limited due to COVID and it’s sold out.

That’s got a real nasty sound about it, a mean animal even at idle.

Had mine out last weekend, targas off and enjoying the sun.

I think I need to discuss these with you. Been after a set for a while.

Cheers we’ve been chatting about the logistics of the 266 mile gap between us .?

I had the exact same issue at about the same age, year before last I think. I purchased a generic one from eBay as I wasn’t flush after the new house purchase abs it turned up in a Japspeed box and logos. ?