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Stephen

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Everything posted by Stephen

  1. I wouldn’t have any if the Honda’s personally. I do like the NSX, it’s just in a price bracket that other far more desirable cars sit. The final shape RX7 is a pretty little thing but your mum would tell everyone you’ve got an MX5. I don’t really like any of their other options. The R32 can be cool but they’re seriously overpriced. The S13 is like a Z32 light, but more expensive to buy. Subaru, sorry but round here at least they are seriously Chavtastic. Toyota. The Supra is a looker, with bags of potential but like the R32, over priced. The Celica doesn’t tick many boxes, the GT Fours are alright. The MR2 is a nice little car, bit feminine though. Mitsi. I like the look of the GTO, but I wouldn’t own one. The Evo is a weapon and offers the scooby pros without the lethal dose of Burberry. So I think it’s safe to say I dislike more 90s jap cars than I like. I would own, a Z32, an R32 or a Supra mk4.
  2. Compare this with postage between the UK and France (a game I play a lot) and it’s a snail race. I’ve had it take a month for a small package.
  3. Everything I’ve ordered stateside has arrived very quickly. My last Z1 order, I still don’t quite understand how it got here so quick, it it was virtually next day.
  4. And that Jim, tells you all you need to know.
  5. On your back with hobby tools, it is. In a proper garage with a lift and all the toys it’s gotta be far, far easier.
  6. Trouble is with the nut splitter, if it’s the nut im thinking it is, it’s flanged so the flanged portion would remain. I’d say throw some heat at it but the bush and strut could suffer.
  7. They’re quite expensive for a good one, one suitable for automotive works. You can hire one from HSS for about £30 for the day, you’d get the whole back end sorted like that. The nuts that hold the drive shafts on the hub are a pain without one and getting them out the way makes life much easier. I assume you will be removing/fitting the rear subframe assembly in parts? The diff alone is far heavier than you’d guess, I recon it’s heavier than the gear box.
  8. I have a memory/feeling that the stock coil packs are actually superior. I certainly seem to recall that the stock coil packs are more than suitable well into the power chasing game with the VG30. In short, I’m not sure why you’d bother changing this item.
  9. Borrow an impact driver. Be off in about 5 seconds flat.
  10. 350z front Brembos Callipers and discs. Virtually bolt on, cost effective and more than enough for road or light track use without being so large to negatively effect the front and rear bias. Readily available. That would be the good options. Skyline R33 Brembo. Very similar to above, there are some slight differences and they are more costly, scarcer and older. There’s various others, including Evo Brembos, K Sport, AP etc etc. All have various pros, cons and levels of expense.
  11. If I could get my hands on a suitable Slicktop shell I’d probably re-shell my 2+2. Waste of a good 2+2 though.
  12. I’m going to go with the fuse box.
  13. I replaced the hoses when I had the plenum off, some years ago. New clamps. No problems. Do it once, do it right, it’s fuel. Before this is used to leak in the cold, I’d tighten and it would be ok, then I’d need to retighten a while later.
  14. The intercooler is a stock unit, still in the stock position. The fog light is hanging by the cable and touching the ground. The silver stuff bottom left is a grill that was covering the intercooler duct. If you look at the MAF, next to the air filter is a BOV. HKS SSQV by the looks of it.
  15. What did you have before 16 row or similar?
  16. Mocal are quite well supported, Demontweeks, Merlin and I think even Zcentre sell them. Merlin Motorsports have been helpful when I’ve purchased bits from them in the past. The stock oil cooler system isn’t the best tbh, as it (as I’m sure you’re aware) works off oil pressure rather than temperature. That said, I’m sure the stock arrangement will be more than adequate for you.
  17. The climate control on our cars is rather over complicated with multiple sensors and mixers. I’d start with changing the sensor behind the front fascia, that’s the ambient one that’s giving you the -86. Put it this way, mine does the same due to a faulty sensor somewhere. (Blows hot) I can’t be bothered to sort it as I’ve deleted the AC anyway. Need to hook it up to Consult and check the sensors. The on board diagnostics just aren’t useable.
  18. In short it’s fan fiction and Mitsubishi have no plans to make it.
  19. When you reinstall use a hex socket, 8mm iirc, rather than a screwdriver. Less likely to drop it again.
  20. There’s a sticky bit on the inside behind this screw. It usually gets caught here and a magnet on a stick fishes it out in a few seconds. Made that mistake myself, twice ?
  21. Personally I think the Rotas looked great. Should sell well those.
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