Stephen

The intercooler is a stock unit, still in the stock position. The fog light is hanging by the cable and touching the ground. The silver stuff bottom left is a grill that was covering the intercooler duct. If you look at the MAF, next to the air filter is a BOV. HKS SSQV by the looks of it.

Eye test failed. There’s BOVs too.

What did you have before 16 row or similar?

Mocal are quite well supported, Demontweeks, Merlin and I think even Zcentre sell them. Merlin Motorsports have been helpful when I’ve purchased bits from them in the past. The stock oil cooler system isn’t the best tbh, as it (as I’m sure you’re aware) works off oil pressure rather than temperature. That said, I’m sure the stock arrangement will be more than adequate for you.

The climate control on our cars is rather over complicated with multiple sensors and mixers. I’d start with changing the sensor behind the front fascia, that’s the ambient one that’s giving you the -86. Put it this way, mine does the same due to a faulty sensor somewhere. (Blows hot) I can’t be bothered to sort it as I’ve deleted the AC anyway. Need to hook it up to Consult and check the sensors. The on board diagnostics just aren’t useable.

In short it’s fan fiction and Mitsubishi have no plans to make it.

When you reinstall use a hex socket, 8mm iirc, rather than a screwdriver. Less likely to drop it again.

There’s a sticky bit on the inside behind this screw. It usually gets caught here and a magnet on a stick fishes it out in a few seconds. Made that mistake myself, twice ?

Personally I think the Rotas looked great. Should sell well those.

Have you been down in the fuse box? I can’t remember wether the car would start but when I had a faulty accessory relay it caused all kinds of issues. This is located in the firing line of a leaky targa drain to. Personally I think your “dead” left pod is an indicator of a larger fault. Be worth checking your actually getting power to things like the PTU. It’s been a while but that fuse box does lots of stuff.

I’ve had mine for 11 years and it’s red. Regular polishing and waxing and it’s never faded. Poor Boys Nattys Wax, it’s a red one, makes a fantastic top coat after polishing with the Diamond white.

Congratulations Richard. It’s our fifth today as well.

Can I blame Corona?

I’d have to pay up my subs for that...

Been having a bit of an interior spruce. Removed all the interior panels and dyed them, using an Autoglym product. Now all nice and black instead of smokey blue/grey. Also been chasing through a bunch of audio cables from a previous owners “ICE” instal.

Thanks Jeff.

Maybe talk to a local auto electrical chap. It’s a very simple circuit. And to be totally honest it’s use is pretty limited. Just get it by passed.

She fat lol. Have you done any weight reduction on that one?

Is the red one lighter?

If the issue is not the sensor or it’s harness not the ground of the sheathing. The issue must lie with the cable to the ECU. I would test continuity of the white cable from the connector pictured above and the ECU itself. Its a very simple circuit.

How did you install the 1 mega ohm resistor?

Just think about the spring rating a bit. Tein have a habit of whacking in some heavy springs. I think mine were like 12/10kg, that combined with the rest of my set up made the car lovely on flat smooth tarmac, any hint of a bump or rough surface as it was crap. I don’t just mean harsh, I mean traction was poor. I switched out to 6/4kg and the cars noticeably more compliant and quicker in the real world.

If you look in the manual it gives you the pressure. The senders have a habit of failing, so you may have to check with a mechanical gauge. This would then show if you require a new sender. It’s all there tbh.

Something very 80s about that.

Oh that’s ok then. Bargain for someone.