Stephen

Maybe some resonators or extra silencers if they’re aren’t any mid section.

Thing is an OEM one new is crazy money and anything used is unlikely to be of a condition you’d want to use. Honestly, go have a chat with a local exhaust shop. Should be able to provide something suitable.

Sadly not as simple as making it shorter. They take a different part due to the fuel tank. Id just have the back boxes changed to a twin design similar to OEM. If noise is the problem, good quality ones will help.

Glad you looked at the fuse box, that accessory relay is a pain. If it’s not run in so long and obviously it’s cold those numbers aren’t going to be brilliant. Looks like one bank is lower than the other, significantly. Are you sure you set the mechanical timing correctly when you did the head work? Did you follow the tooth count procedure? You can test which injector plug goes where by testing from the ECU pins from the injectors are to the plug. You’ll need some long cables for your meter and a second pair of hands would make it quicker/easier. Label maker and number the buggers once identified. If you’ve got access to a compressor, a leak down tester or just a bodge to get compressed air into the combustion chamber will tell you so much more. I bet if you hooked one up you’d find air pissing out the head via the valves.

I think you’d need a lot more information than that picture to put a value on anything.

Where they Nigerian Prince?

Or a successful ad campaign that knows a controversy gets shares and conversation a blaze. I think I just took the hook my man.

The current economic situation might suppress it a bit but it looks like a good investment.

The worst bit tbh is probably going to be the hub work. If it’s the same as the drift works kit the hicas ball joint is modified (drilled out iirc). So make sure they are aware of the fitting procedure. It may be simpler to replace the faulty hose for now...

Isn’t this car booked in with Jim?

Yeah. I used one of the hard pipe fittings from the HICAS solenoid and bolted it to the PS Pump. Then used a piece of flexi hose from here to the reservoir. Basically just a short circuit. Been like that about five years and much neater than those adapter bits.

So it’s like a loop. The boost solenoid acts like a Y piece. The normal path, is from the induction pipes to the wastegate actuator with a restrictor, this nets you 9psi in stock form, or more if boost jets are fitted. When the ECU sees a signal from the DET sensor it opens a short circuit to then remove that restriction. Ending with actuator seeing true pressure and delivering wastegate pressure 7psi. So if it’s got a dead end you can check the routing. You need to plumb it correctly or the boost controller won’t work. In essence you need a feed from the piping to the boost controller and the out to a Y that goes the the actuator feed. Hopefully it’s already like this. Once deplumbed you can unplug, unbolt and chuck them. Mine are long gone.

The boost solenoids control safety boost not the boost pressure under normal circumstances. If you’ve still got your det sensor, leave them be.

Could be a multitude of things. From one simple issue to multiple issues. Has it ever run properly during your ownership? Id really look at giving it a really good look over, depending on your experience this may be better left to a professional. Where about in the country are you?

Yes, that’s is what I’m asking. Is their maths right... does seem a tad steep. Other the further expansion of it, (I’m aware of your position) yes it will be like buying from the rest of world, like America, which is normally fast and easy tbh. In fact depending on the deal done between us and the US it could become easier and cheaper. Who knows. NM ey.

Is that even the correct amount?

The guys a rather interesting chap.

Silicone doesn’t always seal as well as rubber. Seriously just buy good quality stuff off the reel.

I replaced all my small diameter water hoses with good quality (Goodyear) pipe off the shelf from a local hydraulics specialists.

Go for a newer v8. The 350 is a good engine but you will far more fun for not much more money.

I wouldn’t have any if the Honda’s personally. I do like the NSX, it’s just in a price bracket that other far more desirable cars sit. The final shape RX7 is a pretty little thing but your mum would tell everyone you’ve got an MX5. I don’t really like any of their other options. The R32 can be cool but they’re seriously overpriced. The S13 is like a Z32 light, but more expensive to buy. Subaru, sorry but round here at least they are seriously Chavtastic. Toyota. The Supra is a looker, with bags of potential but like the R32, over priced. The Celica doesn’t tick many boxes, the GT Fours are alright. The MR2 is a nice little car, bit feminine though. Mitsi. I like the look of the GTO, but I wouldn’t own one. The Evo is a weapon and offers the scooby pros without the lethal dose of Burberry. So I think it’s safe to say I dislike more 90s jap cars than I like. I would own, a Z32, an R32 or a Supra mk4.

Compare this with postage between the UK and France (a game I play a lot) and it’s a snail race. I’ve had it take a month for a small package.

Everything I’ve ordered stateside has arrived very quickly. My last Z1 order, I still don’t quite understand how it got here so quick, it it was virtually next day.

That’s ok, rain washes the wankers away...

And that Jim, tells you all you need to know.