Stephen

What’s 24 hours, we’ve lost 4 months or more of this year...

On the HICAS Solenoid, the big chunk in front of the Power Steering pot, there are some Hydraulic take offs. The larger one is the same size as the ones on the pump. See the second picture in the link; https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-300zx-tt-hicas-elimination-kit-p-1847.html

My car was originally Auto, so the factory spaghetti of lines for the clutch booster isn’t there. However with an uprated clutch it was just way too heavy without, I mean you can cope fine but get in traffic and your fed up. I plumbed the booster up using a manual balance bar and a dedicated line, this has a bit of a loop and a non return valve, straight to the booster. It’s my opinion that you don’t want to conjoin your brake and clutch booster lines.

Fingers crossed they got it wrong then. ?

Well, that’s a bit disappointing. Backs quite nice but the front looks cheap, looks like a Hyundai or something. Actually it looks like one of those Chinese copies, of a 350z.

Is this not on real TV or even major subscription services? You’ve gotta pay for the motor trend app to watch?

The short answer is probably yes. But you’d have to know what was written into the map. From what I understand the deceleration is a different map. Something like, when a closed throttle signal is seen it retards timing and fuelling. So it’s probably been mapped to do what your describing. Mine doesn’t, it’s rather uneventful on the decel.

Best of luck, it’s good to see it still kicking about. Some of these cars refuse to die.

Did this one belong to Baz at one point. I very seriously considered purchasing that car myself some 5-7 years back.

Are you sure it’s the pump? I’m sure your aware but there’s an actuator in the rack that applies resistance based on an ECU signal, this is speed based. If there is a fault with this system, the steering goes intermittently heavy. Typically if your Speedo dies it will do this, it’s bloody annoying.

That’s a good insight. It’s of no material reflection in a normal 300zx really, those cars a really a thing in their own right, automotive history. It does however help Instate a heritage and pedigree to the model that is absent really with Japanese cars, particularly these ones. It’s good news.

Should go £100k+.

But you typically wouldn’t run a bead of weld, it would be stitches. You wouldn’t want that much heat going into the metal, particularly on the outer skin. So whilst it will in finality be “a continuous weld” it will be made of dozens of tacks and stitches. The bottom seam is from factory merely spot welded iirc.

Why not learn to mig weld. Your only going to be tack welding really, then grinding back the top skin and smoothing it in. It’s unlikely structural really. You can do it.

Maybe some resonators or extra silencers if they’re aren’t any mid section.

Thing is an OEM one new is crazy money and anything used is unlikely to be of a condition you’d want to use. Honestly, go have a chat with a local exhaust shop. Should be able to provide something suitable.

Sadly not as simple as making it shorter. They take a different part due to the fuel tank. Id just have the back boxes changed to a twin design similar to OEM. If noise is the problem, good quality ones will help.

Glad you looked at the fuse box, that accessory relay is a pain. If it’s not run in so long and obviously it’s cold those numbers aren’t going to be brilliant. Looks like one bank is lower than the other, significantly. Are you sure you set the mechanical timing correctly when you did the head work? Did you follow the tooth count procedure? You can test which injector plug goes where by testing from the ECU pins from the injectors are to the plug. You’ll need some long cables for your meter and a second pair of hands would make it quicker/easier. Label maker and number the buggers once identified. If you’ve got access to a compressor, a leak down tester or just a bodge to get compressed air into the combustion chamber will tell you so much more. I bet if you hooked one up you’d find air pissing out the head via the valves.

I think you’d need a lot more information than that picture to put a value on anything.

Where they Nigerian Prince?

Or a successful ad campaign that knows a controversy gets shares and conversation a blaze. I think I just took the hook my man.

The current economic situation might suppress it a bit but it looks like a good investment.

The worst bit tbh is probably going to be the hub work. If it’s the same as the drift works kit the hicas ball joint is modified (drilled out iirc). So make sure they are aware of the fitting procedure. It may be simpler to replace the faulty hose for now...

Isn’t this car booked in with Jim?

Yeah. I used one of the hard pipe fittings from the HICAS solenoid and bolted it to the PS Pump. Then used a piece of flexi hose from here to the reservoir. Basically just a short circuit. Been like that about five years and much neater than those adapter bits.