Stephen

Have all your failures been the original ones? I.e. None of your replacement ones have failed? Also these replacement ones, are they new or second hand. What year is your Z? Are these phase one (square top injectors)? What fuel are you using?

Well I've ended pulling out more than I intended :blink: rads out and so are all 4 intercooler hard pipes. The CC pipework is all gone. Even the front tow hooks and rad support are out. Everything on the front beam has had a full strip with a wire wheel, treated with rust killer as some surface rust had begun then a coat of zinc galvanising spray. At this stage I'd run out of daylight. When I can two coats of smooth black Hammerite will be going on. I went and picked up the bits from Screwfix this morning for my oil cooler bracket, sadly the main component was out of stock. Il sort this over the next few days. The brackets are in the ultility room being painted. No pictures today I'm afraid.

Where is he these days?

The auto boxes are fine as long as they are looked after, once they go wrong though, well people just to go round in circles fitting replacements that fail. :thumbdown: the manuals are far more reliable and stronger, the autobox can't handle much more than sock power. If your going NA I wouldn't go for the autobox, more weight and makes things sluggish. If your looking at NAs it's swb manual or nothing imo. Preferably a slick top. The turbos you can compromise Lwb, auto not such a drastic problem overall condition is more important.

Ali is correct. This is why when switching to forged pistons (that don't have the hole) you switch to NA oil squirters.

Umm I can't see the rod throwing making any sense, the turbo and non turbo rods are the same. The piston and gudgoen pin are different, NAs have thinner pins and the pistons are convex because of the compression difference. The NA pistons also do not feature the oil injection that TTs have. Through trial and error the rods do bend at about 700hp but as I say they are the same forged rod in both. I would class the VG30DE as a reliable engine, somewhat more so than the Turbo. NAs generally are cheaper to maintain and seem to be more reliable. As for the low end grunt, comparing a NA to a FI engine will almost always will show a more responsive NA. That coupled with the shorter diff ratio on NAs will leave it feeling more punchy, stock for stock. Soon as those turbos kick it, quite quickly with the VG30DETT it's all over. Both have there merit. Against modern cars a sorted TT with mild upgrades is a quick car, an NA well isn't. It's quite average. Always best to choose what's suits you and your needs personally.

That's the badger. So it's simply for the oil cooler?

There's loads of random unused holes isn't there. - - - Updated - - - Nope, I've got that one. What I'm talking about looks like a strut brace type thing.

Funny enough got to do mine too.

Nope that's not it either.

Maybe it's a UK thing. I'm sure I've seen an aluminium bar that bolts to the chassis rails. It sits behind the fog light bar.

That's cool. Obviously I can't dibs them because I can't know my plans 100% on that at present. Few irons in the fire before we get there.

Overrated French crap imo.

Yeah, I thought that when I saw it too. :lol: I'm looking to convert to a dual intake soon anyway so il have a look at it and decide. The dual intake depends on how money goes this winter. I'm currently undecided as to wether to refit the AUX fan as I have no AC and I appear to be missing a cross bar on the front, not sure exactly what it's called if anyone knows what I mean? Got the tow eyes, bumper brackets and rad support bracket to sort out. The oil cooler bracket was scrap.

Have you seen how much the once cheap Sportage is now? Our old Kia was about £5k new, in 2005 now that model is the best part of £9k! I also think Peugeot/Citroen (only even looked because they had a used V50 for sale) are laughable prices.

Over 40k for the full fat turbo v6.

So I go the front stripped down over the last few days, hour here and there. I always knew air flow on the exit side of the intercoolers was poor but certainly the passenger side its like the expansion bottle was designed to block the air. So that's going in the bin along with the Carbon Canister. I've also removed a lot of the ducts and guff. I didn't want to go pulling the radiator because of time reasons but it looks like that's coming out to clean up some surface rust on the rad support bracket. I've already wire wheeled back the chassis rails and treated them to a coat of zinc galvy primer. A coat of Hammerite will be going over the top over the next few days.

Link doesn't work. However googling the model, looks like a BMW to me. Kia have come a long way, my Mrs had a little Picanto for a long while and whilst it was very basic and boring it was extremely cheap and reliable. I actually wouldn't hesitate to buy another Kia Hyundai as a daily hack. They are however getting more expensive and becoming less good value for money. The Rio for example is not far off Golf or Focus money.

I ended up doing nothing so far lol and may indeed do just that.

It's funny I suggested them as an option for mine and they weren't well recieved.

Hi Chris, what part of the Netherlands are you from? Beautiful country that I enjoy spending time in.

Bigger brakes won't necessarily make you stop faster. The limiting factor to stopping faster even with the stock breaks is grip. You will lock up stock breaks quite easily. The benefit of bigger brakes is repeatability. The stock brakes over heat and fade very quickly when pulling up from over 100mph a few times. For a road car refurbished stock brakes can be enough. If however you want something more the 350z front discs and calipers are a more or less straightforward fit and the rears on the 350 aren't disimular, so the balance shouldn't be too negatively effected. They are very similar, upfront especially to the Skyline ones but much newer and easier to find. Further to that going towards more track related brakes, kits are available from a few manufacturers. KSport, Stoptech and AP to mention some. It really is up to you as you what you want. If you are having your engine sorted by James (I assume you mean Jimmer, powerzed) then discussing your aims for your brakes as well would be a good shout and he knows his stuff.

There's quite a few variations on the R200 isn't there?

As Graham says below, the manufacturer Competition Clutch.

If you have the receipt it's worth getting in contact. I'm sure they were a trader at one stage.