Stephen

Have you seen how much the once cheap Sportage is now? Our old Kia was about £5k new, in 2005 now that model is the best part of £9k! I also think Peugeot/Citroen (only even looked because they had a used V50 for sale) are laughable prices.

Over 40k for the full fat turbo v6.

So I go the front stripped down over the last few days, hour here and there. I always knew air flow on the exit side of the intercoolers was poor but certainly the passenger side its like the expansion bottle was designed to block the air. So that's going in the bin along with the Carbon Canister. I've also removed a lot of the ducts and guff. I didn't want to go pulling the radiator because of time reasons but it looks like that's coming out to clean up some surface rust on the rad support bracket. I've already wire wheeled back the chassis rails and treated them to a coat of zinc galvy primer. A coat of Hammerite will be going over the top over the next few days.

Link doesn't work. However googling the model, looks like a BMW to me. Kia have come a long way, my Mrs had a little Picanto for a long while and whilst it was very basic and boring it was extremely cheap and reliable. I actually wouldn't hesitate to buy another Kia Hyundai as a daily hack. They are however getting more expensive and becoming less good value for money. The Rio for example is not far off Golf or Focus money.

I ended up doing nothing so far lol and may indeed do just that.

It's funny I suggested them as an option for mine and they weren't well recieved.

Hi Chris, what part of the Netherlands are you from? Beautiful country that I enjoy spending time in.

Bigger brakes won't necessarily make you stop faster. The limiting factor to stopping faster even with the stock breaks is grip. You will lock up stock breaks quite easily. The benefit of bigger brakes is repeatability. The stock brakes over heat and fade very quickly when pulling up from over 100mph a few times. For a road car refurbished stock brakes can be enough. If however you want something more the 350z front discs and calipers are a more or less straightforward fit and the rears on the 350 aren't disimular, so the balance shouldn't be too negatively effected. They are very similar, upfront especially to the Skyline ones but much newer and easier to find. Further to that going towards more track related brakes, kits are available from a few manufacturers. KSport, Stoptech and AP to mention some. It really is up to you as you what you want. If you are having your engine sorted by James (I assume you mean Jimmer, powerzed) then discussing your aims for your brakes as well would be a good shout and he knows his stuff.

There's quite a few variations on the R200 isn't there?

As Graham says below, the manufacturer Competition Clutch.

If you have the receipt it's worth getting in contact. I'm sure they were a trader at one stage.

That's odd, I have one of there's think it's the same one. It's been inbthere about 5 years and I've given it quite a bit of abuse with no problems. Even inspected last year when the engine was out.

Phew, thought I'd given you a duff. Glad to know it's still going strong.

I take it the one I rebuilt and gave you didn't work then if you've rebuilt two. :oops:

Ah ha! I think I have an idea what's going on. Il update whether it worked tomorrow.

Cheers Gaz I think I've found it anyway on the online service manual. Looks like I've gotta pull the fuse box and inspect the relay on the rear of it.

Front of the shaft has a seal IIRC that can leak. Mine was pouring out of the resivoir line, no longer a Nissan produced item.

Got the BMS swapped over today. The old ones rear is horrid, I gave the Servo a clean but I think it could do with testing. The interior of the Cylinder had what I can only describe as a smeg like substance inside, yuk. Peddle feels much better, even with air obviously still present round the ABS unit (makes a squelch sound when ABS is activated) next stage is getting her off the floor. Then I can hopefully get the rear brakes and studs sorted.

Is there a wiring diagram for the climate control system?

There's loads of information on this one Will and encourage you to do some reading. It's one of those things with equal pros and cons depending on what you want to achieve. The purpose of the heavy stock flywheels car manufacturers fit is to create inertia, this makes things like hill starts easier. That comes at a price though. It takes more energy and time to change the speed of that mass, resulting in a less responsive free rev, useful for down shifting etc. One word of advice though don't skimp on it, if a flywheel let's go at 5k rpm or more... well just picture a cross between a Catherine wheel and a hand grenade. You might keep your left foot if your lucky :lol:

Already done, a couple of winters back when I had the frame out. The trans had new oil when installed a few years but it was cheapish stuff and although it's great once warm cold it's a clunky grindy thing. So I've gone for a better product, similar to Redline MT90. Iirc the one I used was 85-95w as that's all I could find at the time on the shelf locally. The budget ran thin and it was a temporary addition, think it was Castrol, may have been Halfords. The replacement is Fuschs Titan Race synth 75-95w. Hopefully should make things a little more friendly.

Trust me mate, I can virtually guarantee even with two zeds you've got less competition for your time. :lol:

Sadly I don't need anything to keep me busy lol.

So without adue it's time for 2017's winter works, lots of niggles to sort. The list of bits it's long but some of it is time consuming. Listed in no priority; Strip front end down removing unnecessary crap and lines that are no longer in use. Fitting the new Japspeed intercoolers on my shelf and improving air flow. Repairs to passenger side ARB mounting point (don't ask). Replace the old Brake Master Cylinder and fit the new one I've got on the shelf. Rebleed the system and sort out the annoying ABS air lock. New rear pads and disks. ABS kill switch. Sort out the rear wheel geometry. The caster is out and the track width is not right. Transmission fluid change and installation of neutral switch. Paint work repairs, it's a tough life living outside and hurtling down Dorsets A & B roads. We do cow crap, gravel and limestone down here. Stone chips a plenty. Create and fit front splitter and smooth off stone gaurd. Potentially fit side skirts. Alterations to the current oil cooler set up. Installation of AFR gauge. Improvement of battery retention. Sort out Climate control faults. If there's time and budget, exchange to dual intake. Jesus, laid out that sounds awful.

Oh ****ing too right. Pick a front page story and start asking proper questions. Even a dyslexic like me can start finding huge holes and bias. You've only got to look back over the last 12 months to see what a load of guff is touted about.