Stephen

Not that I'm aware, as long as you swapped for the same size. You can use adapters rather than replace the rail. There's some seals as well, may be part of that kit. Anyone want to chip in and clarify?

The phase 1 (square cap) injectors are less reliable than the later more modern oval ones. They are prone to damage from high ethanol content fuels. As well as a quirk of the loom that they are permanently live, even with the ignition off. This was revised in later models. Now obviously you can't know the history of the car fuel wise etc, coupled with these being 23+ year old electrical components failures aren't to be unexpected. It's also not unreasonable for them to fail at a similar time due to that. What you should do is ohm test them and keep a track on which ones have stopped working. Repeat failures would cause a warning flag to me. The best option would be to replace them with the later ones. I realise that may not be an option. Second best option is to have a set cleaned and flow tested. Then fit all 6. Sadly without even ohm testing them how can you be sure it's even the injector at fault. I know you did the screw driver test but that only tells you the circuit is there or not as the case may be. All your proving with that test is that the injector isn't firing. Time to go buy a multimeter.

Just thought id share a before picture of the tow hooks, yuk! And a photo of the freshly painted front end. I thinned the hammerite straight from the pot at a 50/50 rate with thinners and sprayed it on. really happy with the result, much better than a brush and way cheaper than buying sodding spray cans. I'm giving it all a few days to harden in the cold weather before refitting all the other bits. I've very tempted while I'm there to repaint the intercooler pipes too, there is a spare tin of silver smooth kicking about that could make a very smart option, as well as free. :)

That's the expensive bit.

Il be straight up with you. If you try to move it on without servicing it, tyres and fluid with an MOT at the very very least your price will have to respect that. They are appreciating classics however the prices being paid for them aren't sky rocketing and the better prices come from cars with good histories that are regularly serviced and in good order. Limited edition or not, from the limited information given at present, I'd expect you to get about £2k for what you've described. This is what you'd price it, to sell, not to sit around for sale. If it's a better example upto date servicing then maybe closer to double that, maybe. The cars selling for 5-6k are very good examples, usually fresh imports. Very few are selling for more than that. If your thinking of "investing" in a 370z a car which is still depreciating, then I really suggest you drive one if you haven't yet. I think they are very good looking car and far better than the rather bland 350. Sadly Nissan didn't do so well with them sales wise and many other arguably better options exist in this price bracket, possibly part of the cause. They are still pretty expensive. Obviously it's upto you and I suggest you have a long think about it. What you've got is a rare appricating classic, it will cost you a fair few quid to make it a reliable classic. It's not a gold mine sadly.

Considering you had two failed injectors I'm not bloody surprised! Bet it drove like a diesel panda car before all that was fixed.

It's always the way. One little job ends up with boxes of parts stripped off and once that cutter comes out...well you know. Your doing well though mate. The brake lines up there are something I missed personally, which I sort of regret but they looked in good order. Why not delete the Diff oil cooler and maybe even HICAS. Diff cooler esp isn't much use.

I don't know the story but it was by Peach for a while. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/member.php?3879-Peach Good luck with your project.

Didn't think you were bud ;) just expanding the discussion.

Quite an eclectic mix there, a Z32, an Elan, a Probe and a f-ing Cavy?

These are good points, although I'd taken from his comments than the fail was not intermittent. So therefore if it was the PTU changing the injector would still render that cylinder down do to loss of spark. I'd be interested in what method was employed to diagnose the injector itself at fault.

Have all your failures been the original ones? I.e. None of your replacement ones have failed? Also these replacement ones, are they new or second hand. What year is your Z? Are these phase one (square top injectors)? What fuel are you using?

Well I've ended pulling out more than I intended :blink: rads out and so are all 4 intercooler hard pipes. The CC pipework is all gone. Even the front tow hooks and rad support are out. Everything on the front beam has had a full strip with a wire wheel, treated with rust killer as some surface rust had begun then a coat of zinc galvanising spray. At this stage I'd run out of daylight. When I can two coats of smooth black Hammerite will be going on. I went and picked up the bits from Screwfix this morning for my oil cooler bracket, sadly the main component was out of stock. Il sort this over the next few days. The brackets are in the ultility room being painted. No pictures today I'm afraid.

Where is he these days?

The auto boxes are fine as long as they are looked after, once they go wrong though, well people just to go round in circles fitting replacements that fail. :thumbdown: the manuals are far more reliable and stronger, the autobox can't handle much more than sock power. If your going NA I wouldn't go for the autobox, more weight and makes things sluggish. If your looking at NAs it's swb manual or nothing imo. Preferably a slick top. The turbos you can compromise Lwb, auto not such a drastic problem overall condition is more important.

Ali is correct. This is why when switching to forged pistons (that don't have the hole) you switch to NA oil squirters.

Umm I can't see the rod throwing making any sense, the turbo and non turbo rods are the same. The piston and gudgoen pin are different, NAs have thinner pins and the pistons are convex because of the compression difference. The NA pistons also do not feature the oil injection that TTs have. Through trial and error the rods do bend at about 700hp but as I say they are the same forged rod in both. I would class the VG30DE as a reliable engine, somewhat more so than the Turbo. NAs generally are cheaper to maintain and seem to be more reliable. As for the low end grunt, comparing a NA to a FI engine will almost always will show a more responsive NA. That coupled with the shorter diff ratio on NAs will leave it feeling more punchy, stock for stock. Soon as those turbos kick it, quite quickly with the VG30DETT it's all over. Both have there merit. Against modern cars a sorted TT with mild upgrades is a quick car, an NA well isn't. It's quite average. Always best to choose what's suits you and your needs personally.

That's the badger. So it's simply for the oil cooler?

There's loads of random unused holes isn't there. - - - Updated - - - Nope, I've got that one. What I'm talking about looks like a strut brace type thing.

Funny enough got to do mine too.

Nope that's not it either.

Maybe it's a UK thing. I'm sure I've seen an aluminium bar that bolts to the chassis rails. It sits behind the fog light bar.

That's cool. Obviously I can't dibs them because I can't know my plans 100% on that at present. Few irons in the fire before we get there.

Overrated French crap imo.

Yeah, I thought that when I saw it too. :lol: I'm looking to convert to a dual intake soon anyway so il have a look at it and decide. The dual intake depends on how money goes this winter. I'm currently undecided as to wether to refit the AUX fan as I have no AC and I appear to be missing a cross bar on the front, not sure exactly what it's called if anyone knows what I mean? Got the tow eyes, bumper brackets and rad support bracket to sort out. The oil cooler bracket was scrap.