Stephen

Where has it gone? The parts market I mean. In times gone by there were parts a plenty on here and eBay. I'm not just talking about rusty parts off breakers but good parts too. Obviously numbers are dwindling but the numbers of parts for sale are nothing like what they were. Obviously this club should be the go to place to find second hand parts. Thoughts?

Reassembled parts of the front today. Waiting on the second coat of paint on the intercooler pipes to dry before refitting. That will then allow me to mostly finish the front end. I also purchased some gay little countersunk washers to make pretty a few bolts, not functional but they will look tidy. These will hopefully arrive along with my new air filter over the coming days.

Really common. The rubber contracts in the cold and leaks. Tightening the clips is required, check all the fuel lines in the bay. Particularly the link hose on the rail under the plenum. It's time to start thinking about replacing those lines though if this has started to happen.

Yourself bud.

Cheers Pete, it's more stupidly and pig headedness though :lol: I would normally be outside anyway regardless of weather, no such thing as bad weather just the wrong clothing as they say. Seeing as I was unable to go fishing today (for domestic reasons) I had to get something done, can't just sit on my hands or watch crap on TV.

Tow hooks and washer bottle back in, another coat of paint is required on the intercooler pipes but at 3'c out there today, no dice or painting for that matter. I can then once dry continue with assembly. You will all be pleased to know the air filter is in the bin :lol:

Much better.

Me also.

Sorry, what! That's a story to be told...

Plenty of cars to fit that bill in this club. - - - Updated - - - Like that one ;)

Now, now don't be silly jEFF. Alien interference or da Russians is far more likely.

Must be global warming.

If you take a Z32 to a non specialist, almost without exception you will be paying them to learn. As we all know labour is normally the expensive bit, costs mount up far quicker if your mechanic lacks the tools, knowledge and experience. Be very careful of local "Jap specialists" I've learned that the hard way.

That's a very informative post Jeff, thanks.

Not that I'm aware, as long as you swapped for the same size. You can use adapters rather than replace the rail. There's some seals as well, may be part of that kit. Anyone want to chip in and clarify?

The phase 1 (square cap) injectors are less reliable than the later more modern oval ones. They are prone to damage from high ethanol content fuels. As well as a quirk of the loom that they are permanently live, even with the ignition off. This was revised in later models. Now obviously you can't know the history of the car fuel wise etc, coupled with these being 23+ year old electrical components failures aren't to be unexpected. It's also not unreasonable for them to fail at a similar time due to that. What you should do is ohm test them and keep a track on which ones have stopped working. Repeat failures would cause a warning flag to me. The best option would be to replace them with the later ones. I realise that may not be an option. Second best option is to have a set cleaned and flow tested. Then fit all 6. Sadly without even ohm testing them how can you be sure it's even the injector at fault. I know you did the screw driver test but that only tells you the circuit is there or not as the case may be. All your proving with that test is that the injector isn't firing. Time to go buy a multimeter.

Just thought id share a before picture of the tow hooks, yuk! And a photo of the freshly painted front end. I thinned the hammerite straight from the pot at a 50/50 rate with thinners and sprayed it on. really happy with the result, much better than a brush and way cheaper than buying sodding spray cans. I'm giving it all a few days to harden in the cold weather before refitting all the other bits. I've very tempted while I'm there to repaint the intercooler pipes too, there is a spare tin of silver smooth kicking about that could make a very smart option, as well as free. :)

That's the expensive bit.

Il be straight up with you. If you try to move it on without servicing it, tyres and fluid with an MOT at the very very least your price will have to respect that. They are appreciating classics however the prices being paid for them aren't sky rocketing and the better prices come from cars with good histories that are regularly serviced and in good order. Limited edition or not, from the limited information given at present, I'd expect you to get about £2k for what you've described. This is what you'd price it, to sell, not to sit around for sale. If it's a better example upto date servicing then maybe closer to double that, maybe. The cars selling for 5-6k are very good examples, usually fresh imports. Very few are selling for more than that. If your thinking of "investing" in a 370z a car which is still depreciating, then I really suggest you drive one if you haven't yet. I think they are very good looking car and far better than the rather bland 350. Sadly Nissan didn't do so well with them sales wise and many other arguably better options exist in this price bracket, possibly part of the cause. They are still pretty expensive. Obviously it's upto you and I suggest you have a long think about it. What you've got is a rare appricating classic, it will cost you a fair few quid to make it a reliable classic. It's not a gold mine sadly.

Considering you had two failed injectors I'm not bloody surprised! Bet it drove like a diesel panda car before all that was fixed.

It's always the way. One little job ends up with boxes of parts stripped off and once that cutter comes out...well you know. Your doing well though mate. The brake lines up there are something I missed personally, which I sort of regret but they looked in good order. Why not delete the Diff oil cooler and maybe even HICAS. Diff cooler esp isn't much use.

I don't know the story but it was by Peach for a while. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/member.php?3879-Peach Good luck with your project.

Didn't think you were bud ;) just expanding the discussion.

Quite an eclectic mix there, a Z32, an Elan, a Probe and a f-ing Cavy?

These are good points, although I'd taken from his comments than the fail was not intermittent. So therefore if it was the PTU changing the injector would still render that cylinder down do to loss of spark. I'd be interested in what method was employed to diagnose the injector itself at fault.